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Kai's Shinoda Bullet


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#1 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:40 PM

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A rear 3/4 shot of the Shinoda frame built for Kai Bach Andersen.

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The drop arm design was stolen from Roy Wong's full suspension F1 scratchbuilt which was built in 1968. It had an Art Deco feel to it so an atttempt was made to make the "jaildoor"section look similar to the Chrysler Building.

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The Shinoda Bullet body is trimmed and ready for paint...but what went into building it. Hmmmm... :?
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Bob Suzuki




#2 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:42 PM

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... we have an old beat-up endbell drive Mabuchi 16D, a few bits of brass tubing to house the 1/8" ID 3/16" OD brass bushings and a NOS Rehco brass inline bracket. The bearing hole is 1/4" so the tube that holds the bushings is 1/32 too small. No problem as the short bits bring the diameter to the required 1/4" OD.

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The modified bracket on the left has a notch cut out for the iso-fulcrum hinge The bracket on the right is the stock unmodified one.

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View of the 1 3/4" long brass bushing tube and the 3/8" sleeves. The middle section of the bushing tube will be trimmed when the frame is finished. Right now it keeps everything lined up.

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We are using a modern can drive Parma 16D for the jig motor as the old Mabuchi endbells won't survive the soldering temperatures required. The brass loop snakes around the motor and forms the "motor box" while the loop of 1/16" piano wire forms the rear brace that is silver soldered to the bracket and axle tube.

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OK, I snuck away and bent another piece of 1/16" piano wire to make the top brace. At this point, all of the bits are "tack" soldered with the soldering iron. The joints are barely holding everything in place and the solder looks a little dull and lumpy. Slowly heat the rear of the bracket with a small butane or propane torch. The solder is 98% Tin/2% Silver so the trusty Ungar/Weller iron doesn't heat the metal hot enough to make it flow well enough.

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Here is the rear assembly after a few passes with the torch. It is difficult to see but with a little bit of capillary action, the solder disappeared into the joints and ended up looking more like small stains rather than built up solder. So far, so good. Time to scrub the liquid acid flux off with a toothbrush and household cleanser. The rest of the build will mostly be done with 60/40 rosin core solder and liquid acid flux as it will be brass to brass soldering.


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Voila...a view of the underside and you can see that the solder has flowed everywhere the liquid acid flux was applied.
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Bob Suzuki

#3 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:43 PM

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The wheelbase is going to be 4" and the guide lead is 7/8". A little bit of fancy wire bending and we have a drop arm looking front tongue and a set of 1/16" piano wire rails that run from behind rear axle tube, along the motor box and 5/8" forward of the join between the motor box and the front tongue.

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The front guide post tube is set so that the bottom is about 1/8" above surface of the jig. You can see how the brace is bent to sit on top of front tongue around the post and straddle the tongue so that it acts as reinforcement and a spacer for...

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...the next set of rails which run from the front of the rear axle tube...up to the front of the chassis where they bend off at angle and keep the guide flag from pivoting around like Linda Blair's head in The Exorcist.. This is an iso-fulcrum chassis so there is a solid centre section and the drop arm doesn't drop. The front wheels and outrigger body mounts pivot up from the back of the chassis instead.

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Here is the centre-section...warts and all. It's time to give a good scrub.

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Warts are scrubbed off. Things are starting to shape up.

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We'll start hanging iso-fulcrum pivots on the rear bracket and adding extra stiffeners to the front of the frame in Part 3.
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Bob Suzuki

#4 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:44 PM

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A centre line is marked on the jig and an old hub and gear to keep centre bar in position. You can't see it in this photo but the bar has a loop bent into it which will act as an up stop for the iso-fulcrum assembly.

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OK...it the front bracing is complete. Sure, it looks complicated but it's the simplest part of the build so far. It doesn't hurt to have a few lines running perpendicular to the centre line so that you can line any cross pieces etc. up nice and square.

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Iso-fulcrum hinge tubes. What can I say? A piece of well-oiled 1/16" piano wire (huh...where did it go?) holds the 3/32" OD brass hinge tubes in alignment. I tacked them in one spot with a small blob of silver solder. Also carefully brushed a little acid flux on the places (including the inside of the bracket) where I wanted the solder to flow. Bring on the torch.

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A little bit of heat from the torch...a little bit of capillary action and the solder disappears into all of the tiny crevices. Be careful that the solder doesn't get drawn into the tubes.

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Here is a shot of the inside of the bracket. The silver solder on the outside was drawn along the inside of the bracket. Too much solder and it gets drawn into the business part (where you don't want it) of the tube regardless of the oiled piece of piano wire. If it does get into the tube...save yourself a lot of grief and start the last couple of steps over again with clean tubing.

Next part will be the floppy hinge bits.
Bob Suzuki

#5 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:45 PM

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The iso-fulcrum hinges are made of 1/16" piano wire. They require a 90º bend and a small kink to compensate for the 1/64' thickness of the tube wall...

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...so that the hinge wire sits flush with the rails. OK, OK...so they aren't quite flush. I gave it a twist after I took the picture.

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More solder, more flux, more heat, more crusty stuff...yadda, yadda, yadda...

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Iso-fulcrum rails in the "up" position.

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More rails. Need I explain more? A little bit of spit and polish and oil for the hinges.

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Rails need a good trimming up front but that can wait until the floppy pan geometry is established. Planning...what planning? I'm making this stuff up as I go. I do plan to finish this frame in the next 24 hours though.

Part 5 will hopefully take the mystery out of fancy precision wire bending. Okey dokey...I've got a couple hours to figure out how to do it. Tomorrow is floppy body mount day and then we're done.
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#6 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:47 PM

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More tubes and wire. The front L-shaped bits of wire have a slight kink on the vertical plane (see Part 4) so that they rest flat on the rails. The tubes are mounted inboard so that the outside rails will act as a down stop for the pans. If the rear of the pans sag a bit when the car is moving...so much the better. :)

edit: OK, OK...I fixed the rear hinges so they don't sag. Are you guys happy now?

Where was I? Oh yeah, speaking of wire bending...I need a U-shaped piece to reinforce the back of the guide flag tube.

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First bend is made and the second bend is marked at the outermost point minus a few thou for wiggle room.

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The pic on the left is the easiest choice because you can grab the long length of wire and bend things much easier. The problem is that you are thinking, "I have to compensate a few millemetres for the thickness of the wire and another few millemetres for the kink."

Being contrary...I put the pliers on the outside of the point (middle picture) and bend back towards the middle...which gives you the perfect dimensions to your bend. It's a little hard on hands because of the lack of leverage but that U-shaped piece does fit like a glove.

Dropped front wire axles? No problem with getting it right the first time. Getting the rise identical on the axle is critical so I put the pliers on the outside of the measurement and bend accordingly. Aaaargh...I'm getting a headache.

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The wire on the top is the axle. The bottom piece of wire is a brace and has to be tweaked a bit but you get the idea. It's a bit counterintuitive because you instinctively want to put the pliers where you can get the most leverage rather than...well, you know what I mean.

Only a couple of hours to go. Are we having fun yet? :roll:
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Bob Suzuki

#7 endbelldrive

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 07:49 PM

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Two brass rails, one piano wire rail and a 1/16" X 1/4" piece of brass plate is soldered to the hinges. The brass is red and oxidized from the torch but will clean up and polish quite well.

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The infamous "grooved chopstick method" holds the body mount pin tube in place while I wait for the soldering iron to warm up.

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Time to test fit a set of Kai Bach Andersen's thingie front wheels. The rear hubs came in today's post...thanks, Kai. The wheels are beautiful and match the fronts perfectly. Almost done except...

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...floppy pans needed to be trimmed to fit the Electric Dreaams Shinoda Bullet body. The chassis is covered with metal polish...but I thought I'd take a picture anyway. Floppy pan were also dampened with .025 piano wire. Slick7 front wheel retainers were soldered after the wheels were first taped off to protect the aluminum from the corrosive liquid flux. The last thing will be to cut out the centre section of the rear axle tube with a jeweller's saw.

Body to be trimmed and mounted before paint. Paint? I'm thinking of airbrushing a 1960s psychedelic image on the body. I'll try and demonstrate some airbrush masking and painting techniques that you may or may not have seen before.
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#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 08:34 PM

Great chassis Bob! Thanks for sharing its construction. :wave: :) :love:

#9 don.siegel

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 05:35 AM

Ditto!

Excellent step by step article Bob. Thanks for taking the time to do this...

Don

#10 Edo

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 08:12 AM

Ditto!

Excellent step by step article Bob. Thanks for taking the time to do this...

Don

I associate myself to the chorus!
Many many thanks, Bob!!!
Edo
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#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 08:44 AM

Edo, see how easy chassis building can be? And Bob's is one of the more complex designs. Check this article out for a simpler design: http://slotcars.carl...rass_inline.htm or these two: http://www.freewebs....ilder/page3.htm :)

#12 tjsguns

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 10:48 AM

:clap: :clap: :up: :up: 8) 8) 8) :drool: :drool: :drool: NICE work Bob!!!
Thomas J Scott

#13 Edo

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 12:33 PM

Edo, see how easy chassis building can be?

Thank you for your concern Bill
but I get my kicks by having my chassis collection made by others.
Kind regards
Edo
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#14 Kai

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 01:42 PM

Wow, looking real nice.

I'm really looking forward to take it for a spin.

#15 32Deuce

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 09:02 PM

Great job Bob, on both the chassis and the presentation!

It's great to have a professional show us how it's done. It keeps the interest alive and gives us something to shoot for. Thanks very much! :)

Deuce
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#16 Jaak

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Posted 21 December 2014 - 03:59 PM

Wow Bob,

I had never seen this one but am loving it!

Thanks for sharing your wisdom and inspiring me and others.


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#17 Dennis M

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Posted 02 April 2015 - 09:17 PM

Thank you for sharing Bob' Great job. :good:


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#18 endbelldrive

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 05:22 PM

You're welcome, Dennis.  

The story ain't over!  Kai moved about the same time I sent this and it was lost in the mail and was eventually returned to me.  The body was a mess but the rest was intact.  I see he's on Facebook so I'll try to contact him again!  :D


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#19 dc-65x

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 07:41 PM

I somehow missed this too. Beautiful workmanship Bob! :good:


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