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New Chicagoland Group F chassis rusting issues


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#1 gatormark

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 04:56 AM

Im not slamming anyone here, but these things rust BIG TIME. I have seen some that look like they have been in salt water. I have told others to use a product we use on our salt water outboards called corrosion guard to keep the rust off. Any others have a solution?
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Mark Conner




#2 Racer36

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:25 AM

Scuff it off and spray a few coats on clear on it. I know Bud Bartos does that with his retro chassis to keep them looking good. Should work against rust or tarnish.


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#3 Samiam

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:50 AM

Oil it.


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#4 Bernie

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:04 AM

All steel wing car chassis rust. Be sure and use some alcohol and swab it down after soldering in the motor. After racing take motor out and clean everything up. Just a normal thing.. no big deal. :good:


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Bernie Schatz

#5 MSwiss

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:24 AM

Non-plated always require more diligence, both cleaning them thoroughly after building, and keeping them clean afterwards.

After soldering in a motor, you need to swipe down the whole motor box area, from the fumes and splatter.

That said, the chassis has been a big hit, and the first batch has sold out.

The next batch will probably get plated, and of course, the price will be slightly higher.

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#6 tonyp

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:30 AM

Living in Florida doesn’t help the rust issue. Keeping it in a plastic bag between races helps.


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#7 Dennis David

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:42 AM

Personally if I lived in a place with high humidity I would purchase an electronics digital dry box storage cabinet.

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#8 NY Nick

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 08:08 AM

Wash it with baking soda and water than put a coat of Gun Blue.

That worked for me.


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#9 Samiam

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 08:42 AM

Rust never sleeps......


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Sam Levitch
 
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
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"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
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#10 Markomatic

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 09:13 AM

For soldering in motors, once I have tinned the motor and chassis I use a liquid rosin flux for all future motor installations. I bought a bottle on eBay and transferred it into an empty nail polish bottle with a brush in the head which I also got on eBay. That helps a bit with the rusting from soldereing in motors. It will also help on plated chassis where the acid flux can start eating away the plating. it is a must when soldering a motor in an aluminum plated chassis too. As far as rusting in general goes I use copious amounts of elbow grease. I was born with some and have yet to find the need to buy more. I would gladly pay more for a plated chassis. I have some old Koford plated EDM chassis that are 25 years old without corrosion.


Mark Miller

#11 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 05 October 2017 - 11:44 PM

I always scrub a blued steel frame in "barkeepers friend" before cutting the parts off the tree and soldering them together....and after soldering as well.  Armature dye or nail polish also seals the bare steel, and shows cracks and rub areas.


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#12 gatormark

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 05:06 AM

My Kofords have never rusted but I guess Im lucky. And yes Mike they are a hit,great running chassis and the kids here can now afford to compete for less money.
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#13 Markomatic

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Posted 06 October 2017 - 09:19 AM

Kofords are plated. I have some with a copper and maybe nickel? Some of the nickel has worn to show the copper underneath


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#14 philk

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:10 PM

I buffed mine out with some small scotch bright wheels. Birchwood Casey Barricade is a great rust preventive, found in any sporting goods sections.
Phil Kreuter

#15 Jay Guard

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:26 PM

One word.... Ospho!


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#16 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:42 PM

Soft Scrub with bleach and a Scotchbrite or stainless steel and or copper Brillo pad also work great. Using a wire wheel or steel wool will only create more rust.


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#17 Mike Patterson

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 09:34 PM

For soldering in motors, once I have tinned the motor and chassis I use a liquid rosin flux for all future motor installations.

This. Rosin flux is much less corrosive than acid flux.


I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.


#18 Slot-Racer

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:25 PM

Perma Blue. You can get it at Big 5 or any gun store.
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