New Chicagoland Group F chassis rusting issues
#1
Posted 05 October 2017 - 04:56 AM
- Slot-Racer likes this
#2
Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:25 AM
Scuff it off and spray a few coats on clear on it. I know Bud Bartos does that with his retro chassis to keep them looking good. Should work against rust or tarnish.
Dennis Dominey
Lifelong half-assed slot racer
#3
Posted 05 October 2017 - 06:50 AM
Oil it.
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#4
Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:04 AM
All steel wing car chassis rust. Be sure and use some alcohol and swab it down after soldering in the motor. After racing take motor out and clean everything up. Just a normal thing.. no big deal.
- Rob Voska and glueside like this
#5
Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:24 AM
After soldering in a motor, you need to swipe down the whole motor box area, from the fumes and splatter.
That said, the chassis has been a big hit, and the first batch has sold out.
The next batch will probably get plated, and of course, the price will be slightly higher.
Three cars from one of my local racers. Not perfect, but not awful.
- Lee Palmer and pmwslots like this
Mike Swiss
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559
#6
Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:30 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Tim Neja likes this
Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
Requiescat in Pace
#7
Posted 05 October 2017 - 07:42 AM
Dennis David
#8
Posted 05 October 2017 - 08:08 AM
Wash it with baking soda and water than put a coat of Gun Blue.
That worked for me.
#9
Posted 05 October 2017 - 08:42 AM
Rust never sleeps......
- tonyp and C. J. Bupgoo like this
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#10
Posted 05 October 2017 - 09:13 AM
For soldering in motors, once I have tinned the motor and chassis I use a liquid rosin flux for all future motor installations. I bought a bottle on eBay and transferred it into an empty nail polish bottle with a brush in the head which I also got on eBay. That helps a bit with the rusting from soldereing in motors. It will also help on plated chassis where the acid flux can start eating away the plating. it is a must when soldering a motor in an aluminum plated chassis too. As far as rusting in general goes I use copious amounts of elbow grease. I was born with some and have yet to find the need to buy more. I would gladly pay more for a plated chassis. I have some old Koford plated EDM chassis that are 25 years old without corrosion.
#11
Posted 05 October 2017 - 11:44 PM
I always scrub a blued steel frame in "barkeepers friend" before cutting the parts off the tree and soldering them together....and after soldering as well. Armature dye or nail polish also seals the bare steel, and shows cracks and rub areas.
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#12
Posted 06 October 2017 - 05:06 AM
#13
Posted 06 October 2017 - 09:19 AM
Kofords are plated. I have some with a copper and maybe nickel? Some of the nickel has worn to show the copper underneath
#14
Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:10 PM
#15
Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:26 PM
One word.... Ospho!
Jay Guard
IRRA Board of Directors (2022-Present),
Gator Region Retro Racing Co-Director (2021-Present)
SERRA Co-Director (2009-2013)
IRRA BoD advisor (2007-2010)
Team Slick 7 member (1998-2001)
Way too serious Retro racer
#16
Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:42 PM
Soft Scrub with bleach and a Scotchbrite or stainless steel and or copper Brillo pad also work great. Using a wire wheel or steel wool will only create more rust.
- MSwiss likes this
Matt Sheldon
#17
Posted 11 October 2017 - 09:34 PM
For soldering in motors, once I have tinned the motor and chassis I use a liquid rosin flux for all future motor installations.
This. Rosin flux is much less corrosive than acid flux.
I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.
#18
Posted 15 January 2018 - 04:25 PM