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36D: Home-modified or by a company?


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#1 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 12:59 PM

Grabbed this online after seeing a RTR NOS in bag 36D apparently by Thorp with the same metallic rose color.

It's been rewound and balanced, doesn't appear to have the comm wrapped/tied.

Neatest part is the use of pin tabs!

Any ideas?

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#2 havlicek

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:20 PM

Neatest part is the use of pin tabs!

 

To me, that's the worst part.  :D  Still, you gotta believe that motor is from sometime back then, because nobody sane would use those torture devices later on!

Could be a boutique rewinder's work I guess, but more detailed shots of the arm would probably help the history experts. Then again, that would require removing the (gulp) pintabs!


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#3 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 01:48 PM

:laugh2: Didn't realize how sick I was suggesting those tabs were cool.  :laugh2:

Should of said a neat/clean finish :D

*Goes off to find the nail clippers.*


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 02:17 PM

Send me an email or a PM, Paul, and I'll tell you what I call them in private :crazy:


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#5 don.siegel

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 02:56 PM

Yep, I saw that one too Paul, and thought Thorp, since it's a very unique color. The balance holes look pretty professional too, but no real way of knowing for sure... 

 

Don 


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#6 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 03:10 PM

The seller also had an FT16D in the same color that I missed out on.

The appearance of possible "professional" drill balancing made me think Thorp, have to dig out the #27 arm I've got by him for comparison. :)

#7 Samiam

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 06:15 PM

I remove those push-in rivets by carefully grinding a slot in the head with a thinned cut off disc. I then unscrew it. Saves the original paint.  


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#8 Foamy

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 11:36 AM

Looks to me like a Thorp.


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#9 Cheater

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 11:39 AM

I remove those push-in rivets by carefully grinding a slot in the head with a thinned cut off disc. I then unscrew it. Saves the original paint.


I told Pablo the same thing on the phone yesterday! Only I usually use a thin razor saw to carefully cut the slot; it doesn't have to be very deep if you have a good small screwdriver.

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#10 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 12:38 PM

It looks to be in real nice condition... wonder if I'll get to hear it run? :)

 

What's it going in... :clapping:  :D


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#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 12:50 PM

Pin tabs weren't around when I ran 36Ds predominantly during 1967-69. I don't recall seeing pin tabs on any size Thorp motor, could these have been placed as part of someone's repair work?

 

A manufacturer would have placed them on the can sides where they wouldn't interfere with track or body clearance as they might on the top and the bottom..


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#12 MSwiss

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 01:33 PM

I remove those push-in rivets by carefully grinding a slot in the head with a thinned cut off disc. I then unscrew it. Saves the original paint.

Great idea.....if it feeds/reverses out, like a screw.

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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:02 PM

Nasty tabs came out fine and here's what was hiding inside. No tying but a very neat & distinct way of laying the wire.

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#14 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:32 PM

The long leads from the top row to the tab make it look like you could crank some (or a bunch of) timing in.


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#15 Geary Carrier

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 02:54 PM

Hi Paul,

 

Sweet motor...

 

Add a little Kevlar and let er rip...

 

050.JPG

 

 

Thanks,

g


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Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#16 SlotStox#53

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 03:06 PM

Wow 😍 One sweet arm there Geary !!
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#17 havlicek

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 06:32 PM

Great idea.....if it feeds/reverses out, like a screw.

 

 

They do Mike.  I've also done this many times...but it doesn't always work!


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#18 Champion 507

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 08:14 PM

I don't think comm tying came along till some time after this one was made. I would agree with a few others here. I believe it is an early Thorp. 

 

I agree, Geary, the stack grinding and balancing of your armature is awesome.

 

Mura was using pin tabs by 1967-1968, right? Those #2 sheet metal screws were just so big and got in the way of chassis rails.


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#19 Ben Morrow

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:25 PM

SWEET Arm Geary, Very nice!

 

Is that a reverse wound arm and about what timing would you think that is?

 

Ben


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#20 havlicek

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 02:04 PM

 

 

No tying but a very neat & distinct way of laying the wire

 

Well...it's "distinct" anyway Paul!  I don't know about "neat" though!  If you plan on running it, I would tie it off as Geary suggested.  If you don't have any kevlar, unwaxed dental floss works fine, I used it a bunch as a kid.  A bit of epoxy afterwards (*with the arm warmed up so it runs out thin) will seal it up.  **The only problem is that, you might want to have the balance checked afterwards, which would ruin the vintage panache.


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