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2017 Exothermic Thingie


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 07:44 PM

Pulled a body out of the drawer and thought it was cool. No idea what it is.

Wheelbase 4 15/32, width 3 1/8, GL 9/16.

Clearances 1/16 rear, 1/32 front

 

IMG_7216.JPG

 

No rules - it's a "Thingie." :)


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#2 Maximo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:07 PM

Looking good, Pablo!

 

That clear body is from Gene's World called the Exothermic.

 

After Gene carved a mold likeness of the Detroit "Batcar" body from old magazine photographs, he then later evolved it with this wider and slight variation. He also added those loovers or what ever they are called above the front fenders.

 

I have yet to produce an Exothermic project thingie myself, so I am excited to see your project unfold into another work of art!

 

Go, Pablo, Go!

 

-Maximo


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#3 Samiam

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:17 PM

No rules - it's a "Thingie."

 

I haven't seen a dual motor car in quite a while.

 If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice. :victory:


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#4 Gator Bob

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:23 PM

Love that body. :good:

 

We had one entered in the Dynamic Proxy... it was/is beautiful.


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:41 AM

Thanks Maximo :good: Parts gathering will begin soon, but last night I was dreaming:

Jaildoor inline ISO, front wheel rails hinged at the rear, Tamiya BB front wheels, DUBRO motor bracket, 13/16 rears, oilites,

Jet Flag, modern braid, 16D Havlicek Mabuchi type EBD motor, dyed Parma spur gear, straight steel pinion

 

IMG_7218.JPG


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:03 PM

Found a DUBRO bracket already started with oilites and some bracing.

1/8 hubs, Wonder Rubber donuts, and Tamiya 17mm 3 Spoke Ball-Race rollers

 

IMG_7226.JPG


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#7 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:09 PM

Cool front  Wheels !

 

Are they 1/8"?


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 07:24 PM

2mm, Sir.


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 04:31 PM

I've done this before, but couldn't remember how I used keepers to secure the wheels on the 2 mm axle.

.063 are too small, .093 are too big, and they don't make .078 axle keepers

 

IMG_7230.JPG

 

After I took a smart pill, I remembered that I used motor shaft spacers.

I'm sure the Tamiya wheels work fine using them as designed with the 2 mm screws and collars fastened to a gizmo.

But for my solid .078 axle, the arm spacers actually allow the wheels to spin more freely

 

IMG_7231.JPG


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:30 PM

Independent BB front O-ring axle assembly complete.

The .078 wire axle will do double duty to connect and strengthen the ISO rails.

 

IMG_7238.JPG


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#11 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 05:54 PM

Cool ... perfect!

You have flanged .078 arm spacers? Can't remember seeing those.


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:17 PM

Camen .060 long arm spacers


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#13 Maximo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:28 PM

Pablo, these wheels were used when you built the Pinner GT for me!

 

IMG_2477-vi.jpg

 

-maximO


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:36 PM

Oh, I remember that fine. What I didn't remember was what keepers I used on the front axle :)


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#15 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:48 PM

Coolness... and more to go around, where that came from. :good:


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 06:59 PM

Tinning party, .063 wire. I test it for straightness before wasting my time tinning it :victory:

 

IMG_7242.JPG

 

Zero tolerance for bent wire here at The Wolcott Ranch.

Believe me, there is some of it being sold, and it goes right in my round file ^_^

 

 


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#17 miko

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:17 PM

DB2 2.JPG

 

I have a pair of those on my dune buggy. I used a small brass washer and then just soldered it to the axle. Worked pretty well.


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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:26 PM

Do you tin the wire when it's at room temperature? Doesn't the heat of a soldering iron affect the wire's straightness, or do you first bake/heat them (oven?) to bring them up to some uniform cross-sectional temperature? Wouldn't a wave soldering machine best accomplish this tinning task? A stained glass shop sold me a jar of "tinning flux" but I don't know how good it is. Sounds like some of the pieces you toss out could be used for chassis pieces other than main rails. 


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My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#19 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 07:39 PM

Do you tin the wire when it's at room temperature? Yes.

Doesn't the heat of a soldering iron affect the wire's straightness? No, not unless you solder a dissimilar metal to it.

Sounds like some of the pieces you toss out could be used for chassis pieces other than main rails. Some pieces are indeed useable for short lengths - I save, and use, those. But I've have wire that was so bad it was bent every few inches and none of it meets my standards.


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:32 PM

Progress report:

-wheels given final trim/true, .817 OD, .800 wide

-custom made Don Weaver .687 OD 1/8 custom jig wheels will give 1/16 rear clearance

-16D Mabuchi EBD jig motor in place

-.055 "U" bracket brace with ISO hinge tube

 

IMG_7258.JPG


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#21 Gator Bob

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:38 PM

Ah so.... a tube in the back... So I See

 

ISO impressed with your builds.

 

see you later.


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#22 Gator Bob

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:40 PM

 Went looking .... Those 'ball race' style wheels are very cool but most don't have a relief for an 'O' ring.


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#23 Maximo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 02:30 PM

Bob:

 

Pablo and a few others have accepted my lead into Tamiya Ball Bearing Aluminum O-Ring front wheels for use in modern scratch-bilt Thingies!

 

All of my cars (mostly) use them in various sizes and anodized configurations. 19mm are the most common and these size out at exactly 3/4" diameter, however I am always looking to find smaller sizes like 17mm. There are even other manufacturers that make them but difficult to source.

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#24 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 06:29 PM

 Went looking .... Those 'ball race' style wheels are very cool but most don't have a relief for an 'O' ring.

 

Clean your glasses and look harder - in my photos you can clearly see the wheels have a recess for O-rings.


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#25 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 06:57 PM

Will gladly worship at the ball bearing O-ring front alter :heart: are there any USA sources? found plenty of Japanese sources..

Always fun watching you create a Thingie Pablo :D

#26 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 07:09 PM

Thanks, Paul :)

 

https://www.tamiyausa.com/


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 07:26 PM

Jet flag is trimmed, blueprinted, and faced.

Cobra tongue trimmed to fit the flag, polished, marked, and faced.

 

All jiggied up, Pappy. My calculations say the 17.36 mm front wheels will give .032 clearance with the bottom of the .078 dummy axle elevated .301"

 

IMG_7289.JPG


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 09:31 PM

This chassis is going to be all jaildoor, no pans, so I made my tongue nest from 1/16 rod instead of sheet.

Width will be trimmed .925" to match the motor bracket and length will be 1 1/8".

 

Slathered the rods in acid, lined 'em up square, sprinkled a bunch of .032 solder pieces on top,

and hit it with the minitorch. Piece of cake :D

 

IMG_7294.JPG

 

IMG_7297.JPG


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#29 Gator Bob

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 10:24 PM

 

Clean your glasses and look harder - in my photos you can clearly see the wheels have a recess for O-rings.

 

  :dash2:

 

Clean your glasses to see the word most.....in my post.   :shok:  

 

I can see clearly now.   :dance3:

 

Most are "O" Ringless....  

https://www.ebay.com...Roller&_sacat=0


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 02:49 AM

OK, so they make wheels without O-rings. What does that have to do with my build?


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#31 Gator Bob

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 09:57 AM

I'm just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round  :icon22:
I really love to watch them roll :to_become_senile:


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#32 Jairus

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 04:33 PM

Just ignore Bob there Paul.
He is probably thinking of your jig wheels and failed to pay ATTENTION  to post #10!


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#33 Gator Bob

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 05:13 PM

Just ignore Bob there Paul.
He is probably thinking of your jig wheels and failed to pay ATTENTION  to post #10!

 

Sorry ...No, you're wrong.

It was the O rings I saw in #6 and #9.

That lead me to an ebay search of "ball race" and those results are shown in post #29.

Did you fail to open that ebay link to SEE for yourself?

 

"MOST listed do not have ...."  Jarius, read post #22 for the rest. 

 

(hmm..why am I even explaining myself?)


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:11 PM

Front chunk/tongue done, flat, square, .925 wide, with some tilt

 

IMG_7299.JPG

 

 


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 08:56 PM

1/16 main rails

 

IMG_7312.JPG


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:38 PM

Ultimately the front axle will only be attached to the ISO'ed rails.

But for now I tacked a pair of dummy (temporary) .055 uprights from the main section to the axle.

This will allow me to remove the big jig screws, and keep everything in place until I'm ready to let it float free :)

 

IMG_7313.JPG


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 02:44 PM

First set of ISO rails, spaced .015 from brass main rail and attached to front axle.

 

IMG_7321.JPG

 

ISO hinge wire set with .063 keeper

 

IMG_7322.JPG


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:05 PM

.039 wire cross connector

 

IMG_7325.JPG

 

Uprights are a combination of .055 and .047 wire

 

IMG_7328.JPG


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 08:30 PM

Uprights trimmed; dummy uprights removed

 

IMG_7331.JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 06:02 PM

ISO rail cross connectors. The center one is .055 wire and will double as a bite bar for tilting body mounts

 

IMG_7334.JPG


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 08:09 PM

Downstop allows about 15 thou ISO drop. It doesn't take much to make it work it's magic.

Bite bar(s) bent slightly upwards to allow lift for the 1/16 rod body mounts.

1/16 hinge tubes installed

 

IMG_7336.JPG

 

Time for a (preliminary) Brillo Pad bath :)

 

IMG_6342.JPG

 

 


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#42 Maximo

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 12:49 PM

Pablo,

The 2mm axle that you are using, who makes it and how long is it?

Thanks!


-maXimo
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#43 Pablo

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 03:13 PM

2 mm axles are not hard to find; racers use them all the time.

I got mine at PCH and it comes in 10" lengths.

 

BUT, I don't think you need it unless you are using them for rear axles in modern competition cars.

-it's impossible to tin and solder to

-in a hard hit it will either snap or transfer the damage to the uprights instead of bend

-.078 piano wire is plenty close enough to 2 mm to make a perfect fit for the Tamiya wheels, it's much cheaper, it tins, solders, and bends

-it's so close, they don't even sell 2 mm spacers to my knowledge - racers just use arm spacers on them.

 

Why did I use them on this build as both a dummy axle, and an axle?

Because I forgot I used .078 on the Pinner, and brain farted.

Normally this wouldn't have happened but I didn't do a build thread on the Pinner :pardon:

In fact, halfway through the build I had to discard both the dummy and the front axle and swap to .078 :dash2: :curtsey:


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#44 Maximo

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 06:25 PM


Pablo,

Thank you greatly for this information. It helps my planning tremendously as I love the 17mm Tamiya style ball bearing wheels as you know.


-maximo
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#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 October 2017 - 07:53 PM

Last I knew, 2mm rear axles were only used in the eurosport cars. Now they may be legal in other classes too.

 

If you need wheel keepers & spacers for .078 piano wire, use 1/8" brass rod cut to length & drilled .078.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#46 Pablo

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Posted 22 October 2017 - 07:27 PM

If you need wheel keepers & spacers for .078 piano wire, use 1/8" brass rod cut to length & drilled .078.

What's the advantage of doing that instead of simply doing it the way I did it?


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#47 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 October 2017 - 07:55 PM

Since you already got that part done, ignore my post. :good: Last I knew, .078 wire retainers were not commercially available.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#48 Pablo

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Posted 22 October 2017 - 08:08 PM

I guess you missed my post #9. Arm spacers work perfectly and are readily available.

This is what the guys who use 2 mm rear axles use for spacers.


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#49 havlicek

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 06:07 AM

Last I knew, 2mm rear axles were only used in the eurosport cars. Now they may be legal in other classes too.

 

If you need wheel keepers & spacers for .078 piano wire, use 1/8" brass rod cut to length & drilled .078.


After which, doing an internship as a brain surgeon would be a snap!  (just kidding Bill...pretty much anyway  :D  )


John Havlicek

#50 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 07:56 AM

John, not if you have a lathe. :laugh2:

 

Thin pieces stacked to make a rotating mass introduces harmonic vibrations.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:






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