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Springy Thingie, "a tin makeover"


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#1 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 10:56 AM

ROUND NO.1

a how to;

I was asked by a Slot Blog member and tin model donor, to give this a go,so here we go!

 

20171013_111819479_iOS.jpg

 

object;  take a 1945 or so toy tin sprint car, Germany U.S. Zone and turn this into a slot car body

 

20171013_110546114_iOS.jpg

Will need a lot of clay, this machine will roll it out at 1\8" thick.


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#2 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 11:11 AM

ROUND NO.2

 

20171013_111844935_iOS.jpg

You need to pack inside tin shell with clay to seal a holes, so when you make the silicone mold it does not leak inside of the tin shell.

 

 

20171013_112349202_iOS.jpg

You can how the clay is push to the outside sealing off all openings

 

 

 


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#3 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 11:17 AM

ROUND NO.3

 

20171013_115002808_iOS.jpg

Clay work base to start bottom profile seal

 

20171013_124314691_iOS.jpg

Continue with the bottom seal profile

 


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#4 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 11:27 AM

ROUND NO.4

 

20171013_130309547_iOS.jpg

Continue to shape bottom seal.

 

[attachment=147531:20171013_131811602_iOS.jpg

Front end under grill takes shape, this is the time to make clay adjustment as needed, remember you have to remove the PETG plastic from the mold, from here need to finish up.

 

stand by. g; 

 

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#5 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 04:15 PM

20170917_173244176_iOS.jpg

 

taking a break, will finish up monday

 

gene and Lucy


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#6 Lone Wolf

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 05:10 PM

I will follow this one for sure.

 

Art Clokey would be proud of that clay work  :)

 

 

Not sure how that next batch of pasta is going to taste though  :shok:


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Joe Lupo


#7 olescratch

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 06:05 PM

Step-by-step mold making at it's best!  Teach on!


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#8 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:46 AM

ROUND NO.5

 

20171016_120722564_iOS.jpg

 

The bottom clay perimeter seal is complete and a spray of mold release.


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#9 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:51 AM

ROUND NO.6

 

20171016_121215521_iOS.jpg

 

Assembly of box to place mold silicone in.

Latex caulk to seal box to prevent leaks of silicone.

 

 


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#10 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:59 AM

ROUND NO.7

 

20171016_121409876_iOS.jpg

 

An  inexpensive pin nailer used to hold box together, pin nails do not have a nail head, so you can just pull the box apart with ease.   


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#11 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 10:14 AM

ROUND NO.8

 

20171016_122534920_iOS.jpg

 

Silicone mix, its like mixing snot and STP, sticky, messy no matter how careful you are.

Disposable gloves are a must.

 

20171016_122811074_iOS.jpg

 

wow!, was able to get 2 photos this time.

When you pour the silicone let it stream down slowly and self level.  

Do not pour the silicone on the mold. Let the silicone chase up against the mold preventing air pockets. 


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#12 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 10:21 AM

ROUND NO.9

 

20171016_124552244_iOS.jpg

 

Silicone all placed, cure time approx. cure is 5 hours.

Time to clean up the mess.

 

 


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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 11:17 AM

Superb step by step/how to, watching with much interest & bookmarked for future reference & having a go :D

#14 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 03:15 PM

ROUND NO.1O

20171016_193221207_iOS.jpg

 

Now lets peel back the clay that was used for the bottom perimeter seal.

 

20171016_193309628_iOS.jpg

 

With the bottom seal removed you can see the bottom of the tin race car.


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#15 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 03:23 PM

ROUND NO.11

 

20171016_193500378_iOS.jpg

 

Bingo !, tin car popped out clean, and the silicone mold looks great.

 

20171016_194119838_iOS.jpg

 

Now a couple of sprays of mold release, now for mess no.2 mixing up the resin.

 

 

 


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#16 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 03:33 PM

ROUND NO.12

 

20171016_194311481_iOS.jpg

 

Lets get this poured, again pour the resin into the silicone mold in one spot slowly  letting the resin to rise filling the silicone mold.

 

20171016_194537369_iOS.jpg

 

Let the resin self level,,we will check curing in an hour for de-mold time.

 

 


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#17 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 04:04 PM

ROUND NO.13

 

20171016_204121768_iOS.jpg

 

Well, here's what we waited for the resin plug that will be used to pull bodies from.

Vacuum draw holes need to be drilled in various locations 

 

20171016_204236095_iOS.jpg

 

Both sides look good.20150126_151242000_iOS.jpg

 

ok, thats it fur now, will finish tomorrow, have to go to pet smart. 


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#18 slotbaker

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 05:48 PM

Excellent stuff, thanks for sharing.

Do you get any/much shrinkage from either of the 2 casting stages?

Just curious, what are the overall lengths of the original tin master, and your newly cast plug?

:huh:


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#19 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:10 PM

Excellent stuff, thanks for sharing.

Do you get any/much shrinkage from either of the 2 casting stages?

Just curious, what are the overall lengths of the original tin master, and your newly cast plug?

:huh:

 

No shrinkage. but I will measure.


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#20 Samiam

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:36 PM

Gene,

 

Nice job. You took a 50 yr. old German tin toy and made it into something new. Thanks for turning my vision for this car into a reality.

 

From a post war "American Zone" made toy into a 21st. Century toy race car body. I'm stoked. :to_become_senile:


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#21 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 06:40 PM

Gene,

 

Nice job. You took a 50 yr. old German tin toy and made it into something new. Thanks for turning my vision for this car into a reality.

 

From a post war "American Zone" made toy into a 21st. Century toy race car body. I'm stoked. :to_become_senile:

 

Tomorrow morning I will pull a body, hope it turns out good.


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#22 don.siegel

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 04:16 AM

Great tutorial Gene - at last I really understand the process! 

 

But as Maynard G. Krebbs used to say, that looks suspiciously like... "Work!"

 

Don 


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#23 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 09:54 AM

ROUND NO.14

 

20171017_113330198_iOS.jpg

 

Had to use the end mill to make a deep cavity so vent holes could be drilled. Drill bits to short and would seize and break off in the mold.

 

20171017_121246605_iOS.jpg

 

You can see numerous vent holes drilled

 

Getting very close now to the objective.

 

 

 

 


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#24 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:11 AM

ROUND NO.15

 

20171017_143555339_iOS.jpg

 

BINGO !, we have a body!, see nothing to it.

 

20171017_143633340_iOS.jpg

 

Nice looking little car.

 

Remember the body as shown is no better in detail than the original stamped tin car body, it was a copy.

What detail was in the original stamped tin car body is in the clear body. The original stamped tin car body had flaws from die stamping and are reflected in the repro. (what you see is what you get)

Overall this will build into a good looking race car. 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#25 Gator Bob

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:25 AM

Outstanding Gene !!!


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#26 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:31 AM

ROUND NO.16  FINAL POST

 

20171017_143937636_iOS.jpg

 

Well the Pittman no. 105 will not fit, rats!1

 

The overall project took about 9 hours to complete but was well worth it.  Who ever made this body at the toy factory in 1945  could not have never though it would become a slot car body soon to zoom around a track in 2017, where has this tin toy been over the last  72 years +\-.

 

20140207_201657459_iOS.jpg

 

We now must move on to the next project.

hope all of you enjoyed the "Springy Thingie" post

 

gotta go,the pug wants to go for a walk

thanks gene


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#27 olescratch

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 02:50 PM

Awesome step-bystep!  You made it look so easy, gonna have to try it myself while I'm "Trying My Hands" at doing some of the many aspects of this here hobby.  


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#28 Samiam

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:24 PM

Looking at this body I see a front motor configuration.

 

Taking a line from Pablo....Now where did I put that Ferret drive shaft kit?  :search:


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#29 grooverunner

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:39 PM

I think I may have the chassis for this body, that's if it's a 4'' wheelbase.

 

frengineindy.jpg


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#30 Samiam

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 07:03 PM

Got my tin donor car back along with a few nice bodies.

 

Thanks Gene. :victory:

 

Body is beautiful. Wheelbase is 3-1/4". Width is about 1-1/4" in front of rear axle, tapering to a hair under 1-1/8". Both a 16-D and a FK motor fits under the cockpit, so a standard drive line layout will do. I'm thinking a JK MB for power plant duty.

 

Make some room on your jigs boys. This is a cool body.


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Sam Levitch
 
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#31 SlotStox#53

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Posted 30 October 2017 - 07:58 PM

Sounds as good as it looks Sam :D

With the nature of the model it almost screams of small vintage padlock power.

#32 Mattb

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 08:32 AM

Nice thread Gene.     Very informative about the steps you go thru to make a buck.   Is any kind of resin preferable or do any of the epoxy or urethanes work?      

 

Do you use the silicone mold for anything else or is it now relegated to the big box under the stairs?    That mold could be used to make resin bodies with a little more work.

 

Matt

 

big_donkey_web_site011005.jpg


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#33 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 10:11 AM

Nice thread Gene.     Very informative about the steps you go thru to make a buck.   Is any kind of resin preferable or do any of the epoxy or urethanes work?      

 

Do you use the silicone mold for anything else or is it now relegated to the big box under the stairs?    That mold could be used to make resin bodies with a little more work.

 

Matt

 

 

Matt

 I just done the sprint car project for a slot blog member as a request.

I usually don't do this type of molding.  I am not into squish mold methods, but some people really do a good job on repro parts.

 

I use different types of resins  and silicone on various projects. 

 

I have to make silicone molds in order to cast the resin plug for vacuum body work.  I do not like to vacuum off of hand carved body plugs as it has a way of destroying the plug.

 

The silicone molds are stored and sometimes a resin plug gets chipped or dropped and a new has to be cast.

 

g;

 

 

 

 


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#34 Mattb

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 12:56 PM

Very informative, thanks.


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#35 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 12:47 PM

Got my tin donor car back along with a few nice bodies.

 

Thanks Gene. :victory:

 

Body is beautiful. Wheelbase is 3-1/4". Width is about 1-1/4" in front of rear axle, tapering to a hair under 1-1/8". Both a 16-D and a FK motor fits under the cockpit, so a standard drive line layout will do. I'm thinking a JK MB for power plant duty.

 

Make some room on your jigs boys. This is a cool body.

 

 

EJ HOBBIES

http://www.ejshobbie...car chassis.htm

 

Maybe one of these chassis could work, wheel base dimensions appear close enough.

Other items of interest found here. 

g.


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