34 replies to this topic

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.16  FINAL POST

 

 

Well the Pittman no. 105 will not fit, rats!1

 

The overall project took about 9 hours to complete but was well worth it.  Who ever made this body at the toy factory in 1945  could not have never though it would become a slot car body soon to zoom around a track in 2017, where has this tin toy been over the last  72 years +\-.

 

 

We now must move on to the next project.

hope all of you enjoyed the "Springy Thingie" post

 

gotta go,the pug wants to go for a walk

thanks gene

[olescratch]

Awesome step-bystep!  You made it look so easy, gonna have to try it myself while I'm "Trying My Hands" at doing some of the many aspects of this here hobby.  

[Samiam]

Looking at this body I see a front motor configuration.

 

Taking a line from Pablo....Now where did I put that Ferret drive shaft kit? 

[grooverunner]

I think I may have the chassis for this body, that's if it's a 4'' wheelbase.

 

[Samiam]

Got my tin donor car back along with a few nice bodies.

 

Thanks Gene.

 

Body is beautiful. Wheelbase is 3-1/4". Width is about 1-1/4" in front of rear axle, tapering to a hair under 1-1/8". Both a 16-D and a FK motor fits under the cockpit, so a standard drive line layout will do. I'm thinking a JK MB for power plant duty.

 

Make some room on your jigs boys. This is a cool body.

[SlotStox#53]

Sounds as good as it looks Sam

With the nature of the model it almost screams of small vintage padlock power.

[MattD]

Nice thread Gene.     Very informative about the steps you go thru to make a buck.   Is any kind of resin preferable or do any of the epoxy or urethanes work?      

 

Do you use the silicone mold for anything else or is it now relegated to the big box under the stairs?    That mold could be used to make resin bodies with a little more work.

 

Matt

 

[Gene/ZR1]

Nice thread Gene.     Very informative about the steps you go thru to make a buck.   Is any kind of resin preferable or do any of the epoxy or urethanes work?      

 

Do you use the silicone mold for anything else or is it now relegated to the big box under the stairs?    That mold could be used to make resin bodies with a little more work.

 

Matt

 

 

Matt

 I just done the sprint car project for a slot blog member as a request.

I usually don't do this type of molding.  I am not into squish mold methods, but some people really do a good job on repro parts.

 

I use different types of resins  and silicone on various projects. 

 

I have to make silicone molds in order to cast the resin plug for vacuum body work.  I do not like to vacuum off of hand carved body plugs as it has a way of destroying the plug.

 

The silicone molds are stored and sometimes a resin plug gets chipped or dropped and a new has to be cast.

 

g;

 

 

 

 

[MattD]

Very informative, thanks.

[Gene/ZR1]

Got my tin donor car back along with a few nice bodies.

 

Thanks Gene.

 

Body is beautiful. Wheelbase is 3-1/4". Width is about 1-1/4" in front of rear axle, tapering to a hair under 1-1/8". Both a 16-D and a FK motor fits under the cockpit, so a standard drive line layout will do. I'm thinking a JK MB for power plant duty.

 

Make some room on your jigs boys. This is a cool body.

 

 

EJ HOBBIES

http://www.ejshobbie...car chassis.htm

 

Maybe one of these chassis could work, wheel base dimensions appear close enough.

Other items of interest found here. 

g.