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Mura Blue Monster motor - your input requested


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 06:39 PM

Please give me your opinions and ideas for a car build and body style that will do justice to this Havlicek - built motor.

It's a two hole Mura "C", can drive, 21 turns of 25, long mags, buss bars, elephant ears, comm cooler

 

IMG_7476.JPG

 

IMG_7482.JPG

 

My experience with Havlicek motors is, they seem to perform more powerful than you'd expect for the wire size.

In other words, if I feel one of my builds would require a 28 wire, I'll normally order a 30.

 

This motor is going to be explosive for sure. If this was 1973 and we were gluing the tracks between heats, it would be a perfect motor for a lead sled, with maybe a McLaren M8. But that isn't the case, so I'm thinking maybe a wing body for downforce.

 

Just not sure, and I'll appreciate any and all good ideas. Once I decide, I'll start a new thread :)

 

 


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#2 Jairus

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:00 PM

Probably later than '73 Paul.
Floppy fronts, straight rails plumber only.
A bit like this?
2vBt5jrPxubMLY.jpg

Or this:
2vchRzdqxubMLY.jpg


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:29 PM

Concur, Jairus, thanks :) That's a good direction.

 

Let's see if anybody else comes up with something freaky .......


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#4 Samiam

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:42 PM

What Jairus said. :victory:

 

I see a version of the Lee Gilbert magazine build. With your own personal touches. :buba:


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#5 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:49 PM

The only suggestion I can make is to have some cool blue paint on the body like this Bat Ray Jarius painted from yester-year.  K & b actually made a "Blue Monster" slot car with a McLaren-Elva body.

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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:52 PM

I was going to say, put a Lancer Porsche body on a clone of one of the old Tony P chassis. Jairus's second photo qualifies as the chassis. This center section could be build as an ISO (shown) or simpler as a straight rail chassis. Outasight repops the Lancer Porsche bodies, both open cockpit & coupe.


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#7 Jairus

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 07:52 PM

I was on drugs then....


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#8 Phil Hackett

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 10:08 PM

Ooooooh... a 25-single.... that's one speedy monster... 16t 25s are quicker.... I know, I used to race them but with cobalt magnets... never tried that wind with ceramic magnets. I don't think it would have been happy for long... so, yeah, a 21t 25 would be ideal....


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#9 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 10:32 PM

I know you've already done an Owl chump Iso stocker but maybe do a lead sled with one of those squished stock cars from the '69 race series ? ( MCSA?? Rick did several builds using the rules for the series)

Some crazy Thingie? slammed & flared arch Lotus 40.. Hacked up & slammed F1 Or Chaparral like the Gittin (getting??) Thingie..

#10 Geary Carrier

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 11:13 PM

Titanium perimeter frame with a wing thingie.


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#11 grooverunner

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 11:55 PM

Hi Paul,

 

What about one these with a drop arm center pin

1976 drop arm center pin chassis.jpg

 

It would be a little different and a tad bit more modern, but still harking back to late 60's/ early 70's.

 

Just my suggestion.

 

Ken

 

P.S if you need assistance getting a .040  1 1/4'' drop arm let me know.


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#12 Jaeger Team

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 03:29 AM

perhaps a frame like this, remembering its best times...

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#13 Pablo

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 09:38 AM

I like a lot of those ideas, thanks, that gives me plenty to "chew on" :D


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:07 AM

Whatever you decide on (*and it could go a LOT of ways), I'm sure it will be a thing of beauty Pablo!  I'm pretty stoked to see what you do here.  On the wind itself, some of these things went significantly hotter with #24 or even #23 wire arms.  I have no clue how long those things were supposed to last, but driving one must have been...er...exhilarating!  :)  


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 08:51 AM

Should last a long longer than they did back in the day using glue.

And I won't be driving it eight heats every week, unless they start vintage racing in the USA :D

 

I have to admit, the wing car idea really tickles me:

-plenty of vertical space under the body for the elephant ears

-lots of downforce, so no need to weigh it down with tons of brass

-no front wheels ( :dance3: :dance3: :dance3: ) and chassis is already made

 

Geary, why titanium instead of a simple Beuf wing chassis?

Will a motor solder to it using conventional techniques?

And what is the difference between a regular wing chassis, and a "perimeter"?


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#16 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 12:16 PM

My long time racer from 1968, that's 49 years of racing and still race ready today.

 

You want something freaky, no pre-made items here, it's all hands on build, old style construction.

This chassis flexes, twist, has center load plate. The outrigger chassis load pans float freely. The front pickup guide axle housing is free to twist and to move lateral 1/32" +\-. 

 

A lot of science is this chassis if you can replicate it, 

 

z.jpg

 

zz.jpg

 

zzzz.jpg

 

zzz.jpg

 

g;

 

 


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 02:04 PM

Gene, is this the same car you had on scratchbuilt.com back in Feb. 2005? Didn't you & Don Siegel team up a few years later & run this thingie & some others in a proxy race?


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#18 Geary Carrier

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 02:09 PM

Hi Paul,

 

 

Geary, why titanium instead of a simple Beuf wing chassis?

Will a motor solder to it using conventional techniques?

And what is the difference between a regular wing chassis, and a "perimeter"?

 

The reason I mentioned Titanium is that you said freaky.

 

Titanium would put you in another realm of increased cost and complexity of construction techniques, freaky yes, practical no...

 

You can solder titanium but it needs to be plated first.

 

Using grade 5 titanium would allow you to build a chassis with no center reinforcements, or just the outer limits of the chassis.

 

 

Thanks,

Have fun

 

g


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#19 MSwiss

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 02:27 PM

Titanium was tried in the mid-90's, without any success.

The racers who did, Paul Pfeiffer probably being the most prominent, typically, after having an average race, would DNF, with no ability to keep a motor in the car, from plating failure.
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#20 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 02:42 PM

Gene, is this the same car you had on scratchbuilt.com back in Feb. 2005? Didn't you & Don Siegel team up a few years later & run this thingie & some others in a proxy race?

yes, it's still running.

I built Don a copy of this car, I believe he still has it. It was the Pace car in the joint proxy race. It done real well.


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#21 mike1972chev

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 05:57 PM

I believe Titanium would have to be TIG welded to be successfully joined and have any longevity? I cannot see how soldering to plated Titanium  would ever survive any situation even beyond slot car use.


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 06:50 PM

I was pretty sure the wing car idea was the way to go, but once I started mocking it up, I found:

-elephant ears won't fit under a modenr wing body made for a 12 or 27, etc.

-motor won't fit in a wing chassis, nor a GT-1 chassis. Close, but no cigar.

-I want my rear wheel width to be a full 3 1/4". It eliminates a lot of bodies.

 

I found my solution looking through The DC-65X Diaries:

The Blue Monster will power a replica of dc-65x's replica of a 1973 Joel Montague Nats winning race car

http://slotblog.net/...73-nats-winner/


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