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Chassis build recommendations for garage track


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#1 Gary Pershall

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 07:30 PM

Looking for pointers/recommendations for chassis to build for my garage track.

I have been in and out of slot racing since the late '60s and love to scratchbuild. However it has been many years since I was really active. I am looking for some recommendations on what might work good on this track, rigid, flex, etc. Intend to run Falcon motors. Plastic cars are shown but don't run them. Only 1/24 and 1/32 brass.

I have been reading all I can on Slotblog for info on what the current hot set-ups for chassis is and my head is spinning... LOL.

P0002854.jpg
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#2 Tim Neja

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 08:03 PM

Hi Gary

Very cool little track you have!!!  I LOVE 3 Lane race tracks!!!  A LOT of racing in a smaller space and BIG FUN without requiring a LOT of people to turn marshal and hold races!!

You have mostly complete 180 degree turns--- and quick changes in direction out of the donut and the sweeper!! Unless you are using glue on the track---I'm thinking a fairly FLEXI car will work best!! Check out the "Scratch Builds" sections with Tony P--- Dennis Samson-- and Jim F!! Jim especially does a GREAT job of detailing his builds and how too's!! You can't go wrong with copying some of these designs.  I'd go with simple CanAm and F-1 builds.  Since you have a home track and the class's you run are your own---angle winders would be FUN too!!  SCRRA runs a Coupe class that is REALLY fun on our flat track!!  Enjoy getting back to building and post what you do and how you like it!!  


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#3 Gary Pershall

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 09:03 PM

Trying to stay away from glue. running some of the JK Natural rubber right now on one of my old brass chassis and seems to work well if the tires and track are kept clean. Yes the scratch building section is great reading, been working my way thru it. The whole retro movement is great. Sure wish we had a track around here that raced retro classes. Last racing I did was at the Nats in early 2000's when they were in Tulsa.


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#4 Tim Neja

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 10:22 PM

I never used glue on my home track when I had it!  Just used like you-- the JK natural rubbers and kept the track CLEAN!! I also used Coppertone on the tires to clean them and help soften them up to rubber in the lanes!! Works great!! 

I loved the little 1/32 flexi chassis cars too!! They handle great and are big fun for not a lot of money!! Right from JK.   Enjoy building!! 


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#5 Rob Voska

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 11:12 PM

https://www.jkproducts.com/en/560-1-32



#6 bbr

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:03 AM

pick what you like!!! anything can be made to run well with some work


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#7 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:04 AM

That small of a track is really hard to drive with the commercial Hawk-7 motors.  Try slowing everything down with the Hawk-25 or other motors.  Most plastic homeset cars use 18-20K motors and the 25K motor is fast enough to increase the lap times to make more FUN than frustration.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#8 havlicek

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 08:46 AM

pick what you like!!! anything can be made to run well with some work

 

"zackly"!  That goes (*at least somewhat) for the motors too.  There's no reason why any "retro" motor shouldn't work well on that track keeping the track voltage to a nominal 12V.  Good driving is all that's needed.


John Havlicek

#9 Mattb

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 08:53 AM

Great little track, my opinion doesn't mean much, but I bet you would have good racing with a slower motor, 15-18k.   A simple brass rod or brass pan chassis with low COG and a bit of weight.  Not a real tricky chassis, just something basic.   If you run vac bodies, the COG should be low and the drivability pretty good.  Hard bodies can also be fun and made to run pretty good, too.   A lot depends on the body style of the hard body and how much you like the modeling aspect of car building.

 

Good racing to me means you have cars that are pretty easy to drive for everybody and the racing is close and fun.   To me that doesn't mean you lap the track in the blink of an eye and only a super driver can complete a few laps without coming out of the slot.      A lot depends on what you expect fun racing to be.  

 

What are the lane centers?   I do like the track, it's a design that is among my favorites.

 

My preference for tires is silicone coated sponge.    


Matt Bishop

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#10 Gary Pershall

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 09:26 AM

Suggestions for a slower motor is spot on. I have found that running Falcons setting the power to 10v really smooths things out. When I make a motor order I might try a slower motor.

 

The track has 4 inch lane spacing so I can run 1/24 and 1/32.

 

A suggestion was to look at the JK Cheetah 1/32. Yes I have thought about that but would really like to scratch build something. Either a kit or design something and experiment on what works well. That's where the fun, to me, is.


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#11 Kevin Donovan

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 10:27 AM

Do you have an adjustable power supply?
They really help on a small track.

Flexi type cars with no front wheels work well on those kind of tracks.
Front wheels just seem to raise the center of gravity and that makes a big difference on smaller tracks.

Try one of the Mini Brute Motors and dont be afraid of Spray Glue. It helps a bunch.

#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 10:59 AM

Another suggestion for a slower motor is the 18K RPM H&R Hawk. The local hardbody club I sometime run  with uses them & Paul Gage urethanes on a small Tunkel Bros. routed wood track. They have recently started using them for drag racing too.


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My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#13 Waldo

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 11:48 AM

Hi Gary,

 

my basement track is only a two-laner.

 

clipboard011nu98.jpg

 

I race different motors, but the best-handling motor is the SRP 25 (it's a 13D "Fox-size", 25k), geared 8:30 or 12:42.

 

But also 16D's and 26D's are fun to drive.

 

 

video

 

The car in the video has a 26D in an old Dynamic sidewinder chassis, raced at 9,5V.

 

greetings

Walter


Walter Baumann

#14 Gary Pershall

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 11:55 AM

Nice looking track.. Probably close to the length of mine. I think mine is 50-55ft lap. 3.7 sec laptime with Falcon at 10 volts.



#15 Gary Pershall

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 11:58 AM

Do you have an adjustable power supply?
They really help on a small track.

Flexi type cars with no front wheels work well on those kind of tracks.
Front wheels just seem to raise the center of gravity and that makes a big difference on smaller tracks.

Try one of the Mini Brute Motors and dont be afraid of Spray Glue. It helps a bunch.

Yes I have adj. power supply. Ham radio supply, around 20 amps 0-13.8 volts.

 

I have run spray glue but trying to find a combination of tires and chassis that work well without glue.


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#16 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 01:41 PM

Several 'Proxy' events are widely reported that have pictures of scratch built 1/32 chassis.  Some combining piano wire and brass as well as Slot-it (and other) motor/axle pods.  3D printing and EDM chassis abound to make a lot of projects.

 

Silicone or urethane tires on aluminum set screw rims never dry out and work OK on glossy or satin race surfaces.  Foams work best when used often, not monthly.


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#17 Gary Pershall

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 01:57 PM

Thanks everyone, lots of good advice. Will do some searching on Slotblog and get some parts ordered.



#18 Tim Neja

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 11:33 AM

You could go with the simple JK Retro kits---build a couple of those to get your feet wet.  Simple single rail OR multirail and the design of the kit allows for your front axle, guide placement etc.  Their a great starting point. 


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#19 Don Weaver

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 11:33 AM

A little late but my two cents:

 

Tim is absolutely right -- flex is the name of the game on a short, tight and twisty track like yours.

 

The JK C85 (old# JKD3X25R) is an excellent kit to build from.  A very successful winner in many races.

 

Check out Jim Fowler's build threads here on SlotBlog - one of the better ones for step by step instructions on scratch building winners and explanations on why he does things.  I am especially partial to his "hybrid" and "turning fork" chassis' - especially the "hybrid" with unsoldered rails.

 

The Racers Swap Shop on SlotBlog as well for many used and new chassis' by some of the best builders in Retro.

 

 

For parts try out:

 

The new JK premium tires  T9M3N (old# JK8713PP) depending on your track surface.

 

The new Red Fox guide but get Mike Swiss to boil, thread and pin them for you.  Well worth doing for the small premium charge.  Mike also has many specialty items for Retro as does Rick Bernardo @ R-Geo.

 

We have also been using "Blue Juice" Valve Oil (for trumpets, trombones, etc.) as a tire treatment and it has eliminated the use of spray glues completely.  Doesn't goop up the track either!

 

All these work well on our home track here in Lexington.  Check out the "Dog House Raceway" in the "Home track.....Section" in S.C. here on SlotBlog.

 

BTW:  A great looking track you have there - ENJOY!!

 

 

Don


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#20 Gary Pershall

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Posted 18 November 2017 - 10:02 PM

Don, Thanks for pointing out Jim Fowler's build threads. Some great examples there.

 

Will have to give the Blue Juice a try...







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