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R-Geo Crusher Dirt Modified set-up questions


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#1 btk

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 04:32 PM

Newbie alert!  I'm sort of jumping into the deep end and building a car from parts with a view toward (eventually, possibly) racing on our local raceway's oval track.

 

I've got the chassis assembled and the oilites/front bushings installed.  The solder work isn't pretty, but it should hold.

 

As with most things in this hobby, documentation has been pretty tough to come by.  I've got a couple of questions I've been wondering about based on things I've seen at the track and on here.  Huge thanks in advance to anyone willing to share some of their wisdom!

 

The rules specify that the axles may be offset and that the front may be free-wheeling.  Once I get them straight and level (which has been slightly harder than I expected)...

  • How do I determine the correct amount of offset-ness?  Start balanced and just slowly shift the spacers from the left side to the right?
  • What kind of characteristics will I see from a car that's not offset enough vs. too offset?
  • To do the free-wheeling front axle, do I just pop the set screw out of one side and use one of those brass collars on the end of the axle?  If so...
  • Do the collars get soldered on or are they press-fit?
  • Which side is better to have the free wheel on, or should the axle be fixed and have both wheels free?

 

With regards to the guide... I've seen numerous references on SlotBlog about guides returning to a straight position and have also seen many photos of lead wires that have loops in them near the front axle.

  • Are those loops functioning as a spring to keep the guide centered?
  • Does it even matter if your guide straightens itself if you're only turning left?

 

And last, but certainly not least, am I assembling the axles correctly?

  • Front: Tires/wheels outside, spacers next to them, then the flanges attached to the chassis uprights.
  • Rear:  Tires/wheels outside, spacers next, oilites in the uprights, and just the crown between the uprights.

Thank you!


Brian Keifer




#2 Samiam

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 05:16 PM

Is this the chassis you're referring to?

https://www.ebay.com...1?ul_noapp=true

 

Or this one?

https://www.ebay.com...kUAAOSwA4dWL8U9


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#3 btk

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 05:56 PM

Yep, it's that first one.


Brian Keifer

#4 garyvmachines

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 06:58 PM

Hi Brian

Did you buy your car at a local shop ??? Contact owner he will know where to start on set up .

Free Wheel fronts ..... Just like you  I tighten one set screw ... Solder a Brass Top hat to hold it on..... !!

E-Z to change off set .... Loosen set screw ..... Change spacer .....

 

 

 ............... ALWAYS have a self CENTERING GUIDE FLAG .....!!!!!!!

You lose SOOOOO much time if the corner marshal has to Dork around getting your car in.......

Solder  an earring back to run wires through. Use wires as springs.

 

Good luck & have Fun

 

GAV  


Gary Vogeler

#5 Samiam

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Posted 21 November 2017 - 07:47 PM

Brian,

 

When I ran Oval cars where an offset was allowed, I would set L/S wheel right up against the chassis with just one thin(.020") steel spacer. Then run the R/S out to the max. allowed width. I would always free wheel the R/S front wheel.


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Sam Levitch
 
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
     Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)

#6 btk

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 08:08 PM

Did you buy your car at a local shop ??? Contact owner he will know where to start on set up .

 

 ............... ALWAYS have a self CENTERING GUIDE FLAG .....!!!!!!!

You lose SOOOOO much time if the corner marshal has to Dork around getting your car in.......

Solder  an earring back to run wires through. Use wires as springs.

 

Yep, I try to buy as much as possible through my local tracks.  It's just going to be a little while before we can get back there to pick their brains, so I'm trying to maximize my build time by poking you fine people for help.  So... thanks!  :D


Brian Keifer

#7 btk

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Posted 22 November 2017 - 08:12 PM

When I ran Oval cars where an offset was allowed, I would set L/S wheel right up against the chassis with just one thin(.020") steel spacer. Then run the R/S out to the max. allowed width. I would always free wheel the R/S front wheel.

 

Gotcha!  Then that's where I'll start and adjust if needed.  Thanks!


Brian Keifer





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