12 replies to this topic

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.1

 

How to build a Shinoda Lampray, old school method

This how to is about how a thingie was originally constructed with basic tools, I have always built my cars this way. If you take your time you can build a really nice racer.

The chassis build will be a rear hinged ISO.

Lets get started.

 

 Shinoda Lampray

 

The tools shown here is what built this how to chassis.

 

This is the only part you need to purchase.

This motor bracket will accept more than one type of 16D's

 

Get a flat board

Take the Lampray body and a sharpie marker and mark the wheel base. 

 

Starting to layout the chassis hands on jig, "1960's Style"

Take the square and mark the required wheel base.

 

Additional line work added,wheel base, chassis width, pickup guide hole location, chassis centerline.

Some additional lines will be added as we go.

 

Mark the hinge hole location as shown,

 

Use your hand drill and drill a 1\16" hole on each side.

 

Take a piece of 3\32" piano wire and bend to fit around the motor bracket. We will cut this later.

 

WILL CONTINUE, stand by.

gene\zr1

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.2 continue

 

Mark up the center guide section, make the pickup guide end piece and solder.

 

Center guide section, with the pickup guide end piece soldered together.

 

Motor bracket and pickup center section. place the pieces on the 1960's chassis jig and check for fit up.

 

Solder to piano wire side rails to center section as shown.

Notice that the back of motor location has been marked on the 1960's chassis jig.

 

Solder the purchased motor mount to the center section side rails. Use the 1960's chassis jig to locate the parts in the proper location.

 

Cut the 3\32 u-frame made in round one post as shown.

 

As shown cut a piece or brass tube and slip each piece of the u-frame and solder as shown.

I use a steel weight to hold pieces flat during solder and prevents burnt fingers.

 

Completed u-frame, Note the temporary brass spreader\spacer at the right end, to hold u-frame rails parallel.

 

END OF ROUND NO.2

WILL CONTINUE, stand by.

gene\zr1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jairus]

 Go man GO!!!!

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.3

 

Starting to assemble u-frame side rails to carry the front axle.

Tack solder 1\16" brass rails for now. Use your chassis jig to locate parts. 

 

Front axle assembly parts.

 

Tape 2 pieces of 1\16" brass rod to building board as shown. This will provide a 1\16" frame clearance.

 

Front axle tube assembly, tack solder in place as shown.

 

Finish the u-frame side rails to carry the front axle as shown.

 

Place the u-frame side rail axle frame in place as shown, should not bind to center section.

 

Cut 2 "L" pieces of piano wire and solder in place as shown.

 

Hinge view

 

Progress view

 

END OF ROUND NO.3

WILL CONTINUE, stand by.

gene\zr1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Maximo]

Gene,

You are the Man!

You and Jairus and a few others post great How-To builds. Yours is awesome as it doesn't mandate an expensive chassis jig!

Go Gene Go!!!

MaximO

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.4

 

Make a 1\16" U-bracket and solder in place as shown. This stops the center guide section from rising to high. NOTICE; the 1\32" "V" shape shim , this will allow the center guide section to rise  1\32".

 

 Completed U-bracket soldered in place.

 

Solder a piece of piano wire as shown, this prevents the completed motor center section from dropping.

 

Make 2 side pans as shown, use the chassis jig for sizing and fit up.

 

Square tube size.

 

Cut the square tube and slide into place and solder.

 

Slip a piece of piano thru the square brass tube, bend and solder as shown in the photo.

 

Make 2,  "z"-bends as shown.

 

Solder the  2,  "z"-bends in place as shown. These stops the side pan from rising.

 

Bottom of chassis view.

 

 

END OF ROUND NO.4

WILL CONTINUE, stand by.

gene\zr1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gene/ZR1]

ROUND NO.5

 

Any of the motors as shown will screw to this bracket. Build the chassis, put in your motor of choice.

 

Completed chassis

 

Completed chassis

Approximate just the chassis cost including motor bracket  $9.00

 

This build is "Certus" powerd and it is going to the 2017 Shinoda Reunion December 16 2017.

 

No bells or whistles, just an easy common sense down to earth build, simple basic tools required.

This method can be modified to fit just about any body. Side pans  can be reconfigured to even fit a Shinoda Large Dart or others.

 

This is the way it was done in the 60's,  good luck and happy racing.

 

Body mounting post soon.

 

END OF ROUND NO.5

WILL CONTINUE with body soon.

 

"end of transmission" 

gene\zr1

[olescratch]

Gene making it all look easy.  How long does it usualy take for you to build a chassis like this?  Do you tumble your chassis once completed?

[Gene/ZR1]

Gene making it all look easy.  How long does it usualy take for you to build a chassis like this?  Do you tumble your chassis once completed?

John

Yes it is easy, give it a try. I only build old vintage style.

About 7 - 8 hours off-on taking my time,

No I do not tumble as I see no reason to. If I want bling I will wax my ZR1 

regards; g

[Pablo]

Excellent tutorial  

[The Sawdust Man]

Very nice job Gene!

[anglicanbeachparty]

Wow!  Great write-up, Gene!!

[grooverunner]

Thanks Gene !

 

Ken