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Difalco controller issues


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#1 kustomfab1

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 04:03 PM

I bought this controller used on here a couple months ago as a back-up. Ever since I have had it, it has a skip in it, as though the fifth and sixth bands are dead. Is there anything to look for? Should I send it to Difalco? I love his controllers and want to keep this one if possible.

 

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Chance Overholt




#2 Samiam

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 04:22 PM

Clean wiper button and board. They may have become tarnished from not being used for a while. Use contact cleaner and a soft cloth.


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#3 Cheater

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 04:25 PM

And if that doesn't solve your problems, contact Jim Difalco. He's notorius for providing excellent support.


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#4 kustomfab1

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 04:34 PM

That's part of the reason I love them. I’ve just grown used to them over the years. I know Third Eyes are great too, but they feel awkward to even hold now!

Thanks, guys! I’ll take it apart and do some cleaning!
Chance Overholt

#5 swodem

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 05:07 PM

Have a good close look at the wiper arm to see if it’s keeping contact as it travels across the board. Often a loose trigger hinge bolt will allow for a break in contact midway due to the side pressure load from your finger.
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#6 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 08:08 PM

I can't tell if the controller uses the changeable resistor blocks but if it does, and  If the skip is always the same bands try a different resistor block if you can borrow one. you could have some bad connections in it.


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#7 Dominator

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 08:20 PM

Could also be a bad wire on the wiper arm.

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#8 drrufo

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 12:00 PM

If you have a digital voltmeter you might be able to test the resietors and see if they are bad. Try to clean the wiper array with a pencil eraser That will polish the copper tarnish with out harming the array. Test all the wires to see if one is bad.


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#9 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 01:51 PM

Have you tried different resistor blocks with the same problems? That should isolate the problem to the main board.  Very rare, but not impossible, there might be a cold solder joint at either the wiper segment or the switchblock socket.  Re heat those points with a bit of flux to melt the solder.  Only time I get to use my 30 watt point iron.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#10 SpeedyNH

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 06:11 PM

I'd rather have an analog Ohmmeter than a digital one, which can use very small currents and an A/D converter to get you a display number.

one probe on the output, the other you walk across the wiper bands. that'll tell you if it's the wiper or a bad circuit path.

speedy


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#11 Slot-Racer

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 04:37 PM

Can anyone advise with a digital meter what values I should be getting with no power connected if a meter is connected to the white/black/red lines? Want to verify if my Difalco is wired right.
Mario Damis

#12 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 01:37 AM

Should only need to check continuity - the diode setting.

brake on: red/black

full power: red/white

middle bands: red/black

power in: white/black

 

Resistance will vary only in the power bands, and with the HD-30, each chip has different values.  Other readings should only show more than minimal resistance if there is something wrong when is has continuity - like one strand of wire left in a multistrand wire.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#13 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 07:26 AM

Sorry Larry if I am reading this wrong but the red and white should never be connected.


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#14 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 24 January 2018 - 12:23 PM

meter check: Full on should show NO continuity with red/white.  Also no continuity in power on red/black, but continuity white/black.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#15 Slot-Racer

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 01:06 PM

Should only need to check continuity - the diode setting.
brake on: red/black
full power: red/white
middle bands: red/black
power in: white/black
 
Resistance will vary only in the power bands, and with the HD-30, each chip has different values.  Other readings should only show more than minimal resistance if there is something wrong when is has continuity - like one strand of wire left in a multistrand wire.


Something must be wrong. The controller is not powered to be clear.

brake on: red/black = No reading at all
full power: red/white = No reading at all
middle bands: red/black = No reading at all
power in: white/black = I get a continuous reading; On 200 Ohms, I get values from 10.7 on slow and 57.4 on fast on the sensitivity pot.
Mario Damis

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 01:09 PM

meter check: Full on should show NO continuity with red/white.  Also no continuity in power on red/black, but continuity white/black.


This I do find to be true; to a point? On black/white I do get a continuity but if the sensitivity pot is dialed all the way to fast #10 there is no continuity, but if set lower to around #7 or lower then continuity occurs.
All others red/white and red/black have no continuity - Yes! True.
Does that mean the controller is ok? What other test can be done to verify everything is ok?
Mario Damis

#17 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 06:20 PM

Sensitivity pot does add resistance that may be 'out of range' for continuity - or the pot might have an issue.  Have to check the working ohm range of the pot - and the end contacts.


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#18 Slot-Racer

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 07:14 PM

Sensitivity pot does add resistance that may be 'out of range' for continuity - or the pot might have an issue.  Have to check the working ohm range of the pot - and the end contacts.


Thank you so much for your reply. Ok on 200 ohm settings I get the following checking both pots;

Sensitivity pot: 1.0 ohms to 47.0 ohms and the brake pot is .9 ohms to 6.3 ohms when directly connected to digital meter. Is this ok? By the way this is a brand new controller never used.
Mario Damis

#19 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 25 January 2018 - 11:11 PM

Sounds right.  Difalco uses a 5-6 ohm brake pot and a 50 ohm trim pot on 1/24 scale controllers and 25 ohm brake/ 100 trim pots on the HO controller, different band resistors as well.  I could not ID from the photo, but if both pot are silver colored, you have the economy brake pot.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#20 Slot-Racer

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 11:05 AM

Sounds right.  Difalco uses a 5-6 ohm brake pot and a 50 ohm trim pot on 1/24 scale controllers and 25 ohm brake/ 100 trim pots on the HO controller, different band resistors as well.  I could not ID from the photo, but if both pot are silver colored, you have the economy brake pot.


Yes the HD30 Genesis is the Econo brake. So is it ok? What else can be checked? I'm just terrified to connect this thing to power and it blows! I'm sure I have all the wires in the right location but one things keeps tripping me up. One person said that the black brake wire and the black wire from the PCB do not connect together to the red as it is stated in the instructions from Difalco. He stated "One is soldered to the old red wire and the other is soldered to the brake terminal that stops the trigger in its at rest location."
Mario Damis

#21 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 02:21 PM

One good way to test is only hook the black and white track clips up.  Check power range operation without the red brake wire hooked up.  Then momentarily touch the red brake wire to the red post and watch for sparks. IF none, then it should be safe to test the brake operation.  Sometimes some color coded wires get mixed up or substituted in a non-factory repair or assembly, but the circuit is likely working.


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#22 Slot-Racer

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Posted 26 January 2018 - 02:25 PM

One good way to test is only hook the black and white track clips up.  Check power range operation without the red brake wire hooked up.  Then momentarily touch the red brake wire to the red post and watch for sparks. IF none, then it should be safe to test the brake operation.  Sometimes some color coded wires get mixed up or substituted in a non-factory repair or assembly, but the circuit is likely working.


Ok thank you.
Mario Damis





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