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Promo pick-up project just for fun


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#1 Lone Wolf

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 05:55 PM

As you may or may not know I like to make slot cars out of anything hard body.

 

Here again I will share some techniques and methods you may like to apply to your build.

 

I have a bunch of 80's and 90's promos bought on speculation that have lost mostly all of their value. Please don't ask. What's a slotter to do?Make slot cars of course.

 

Today we are starting with '88 Silverado C-1500 in Brandywine. I actually was a tech for Chevy when these came out and they are very nice trucks. 

 

DSC09498.JPG

 

Here it is disassembled, just two screws.

 

DSC09499.JPG

 

I decided to use a Revell 16D can drive bracket as these are still floating around. Here it is lined up with the two pins which hold the promo axle in place.

 

DSC09500.JPG

 

I trimmed the pins to put an axle in the bracket and used the pins for alignment. Then marked and drilled two holes. 

 

DSC09501.JPG

 

I used two nylon spacers to take up space in the bracket. I used my favorite, a foam sanding pad to make a nice fit on the spacers.

 

DSC09502.JPG

 

Here is the bracket attached and a Dynamic 27 tooth crown which will save me from cutting out the bed. 

 

DSC09503.JPG

 

Here is a Dynamic 16D mocked up with an 8 tooth pinion which will give me a 3:37 ratio which is actually close to the real truck. The motor stops before the cab so I can use the full interior.

 

DSC09504.JPG

 

A side shot shows the motor has nice ground clearance even if I wanted to use stock height wheels.

 

DSC09505.JPG

 

Let me know if I'm getting to simplified here or would you like to see it step by step like this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Joe Lupo





#2 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 06:57 PM

I absolutely love this step by step, I vote you please continue.

I've never built a hardbody slot car and someday I will need to know how :good: :heart:


Paul Wolcott

#3 olescratch

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 11:10 PM

Step by step leaves very little room for questions!  I need lots of answers to be able to comprehend lol!  Keep on building please.


John Stewart

#4 Lone Wolf

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 08:50 AM

Thanks for the positives so far. 

 

I decided to dress up the interior for a little contrast. They came in red but I went with gray which was also popular on these trucks.

 

The interior pops out with just a tab at the rear. 

 

DSC09506.JPG

 

The three components are easily disassembled.  

 

DSC09507.JPG

 

Here the interior has been sprayed with flat gray primer. I use whatever I have lying around. Remember that very few interior parts are gloss, especially on newer vehicles. I always go with flats.

 

I have picked out some details with paint. Cheap and easy way to bring it to life.

 

If you don't have one of these helping hands things pick one up. Makes life easier.

 

Also, I use the lids from potato salad containers as pallets for mixing or touch up paint.

 

DSC09508.JPG

 

Here is the interior reassembled.

 

I like to use Tamiya acrylics. Here is another tip. If you buy the Tamiya thinner it's like $7 for a little bottle. You can use Isopropyl alcohol instead. Much cheaper. Just make sure it is at least 99%. There are different strengths.

 

DSC09509.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Joe Lupo


#5 Lone Wolf

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 12:45 PM

Couple more for today.

 

Here is a pic of the interior installed. Dresses up the truck with minimum cost and labor.

 

DSC09511.JPG

 

Here is some chassis work. Since I need to use the plastic chassis to retain the guide and front axle it needed modifications.

 

Using a Dremel, X-acto and my favorite foam file. Not my favorite part of the project. No need to be perfect here as it will all be painted black and very few will see it.

 

Since the front half was no longer locked in by the rear tabs I had to add an attachment. I chose to use two screws under the cab will be hidden by the seats in the interior.

 

One last tip. If you are screwing to pieces of plastic together drill a small hole first. Then, slightly enlarge the hole that does not retain the screw. Otherwise the screw may bind and lock between the two pieces. 

 

DSC09510.JPG

 


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Joe Lupo


#6 Pete L.

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 01:24 PM

Joe,

 

 Great work, keep us posted on the progress !!! :good: :good: :good:


Peter J. Linszky

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#7 olescratch

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 02:05 PM

Nice!  I even like the way the slot motor lines up with the driveshaft of the model.  Onwards. BTW, the interior paint does add to the "look", breaks the plain, one color it began with.


John Stewart

#8 Lone Wolf

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 04:42 PM

John, didn't even notice that drive shaft thing. 

 

Maybe I can run a shaft up front for 4 wheel. 

 

Somebody stop me  :dash2:

 

Last post for today.  

 

Working on rear wheels.

 

DSC09512.JPG

 

I found some wheels in the stash that have a nice fit on the original promo wheels.

 

I'm using the K&B Goodyears for many reasons. 

 

1. They are still somewhat available.

 

2. They have excellent traction on modern tracks.

 

3. The tread and sidewall details are accurate and nicely executed.

 

4. They can be sanded to reduce the diameter and the traction actually improves.

 

Here I've disassembled the promo wheels. I chucked them in a cordless drill and sanded the lip off. Then I used a razor saw to remove the hub. Lastly I sanded the back down to thin them out. 

 

I used the Dremel bit shown to mill down the slot wheel center. Then the slot wheel was chucked into a Dremel and cleaned with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Then it was polished using Mothers metal polish to get closer to a "chrome" look on the outer lip. Tire washed with warm soap an water and installed.

 

That's all for today. Contrary to rumors out there I do have a life.

 

DSC09517.JPG

 

 

 

 


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Joe Lupo


#9 olescratch

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 05:21 PM

I like your choice for tire/wheel combo, they look like the real thing!  Do you use any kind of adhesive to hold the center pieces in place, or just press fit?


John Stewart

#10 Lone Wolf

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 11:10 AM

Thanks John, I use just a tiny drop of crazy glue to retain the insert. 

 

Even if you have a nice tight fit they tend to fall out on the track if not glued.

 

Throughout this build I will give tips I've learned over the years. Some people may be very familiar with them, others may have never heard of them and that is why I'll include them.

 

Heres one now, To remove the insert in a wheel slowly thread an axle into the rear of the wheel to drive the insert out. 

 

Today I am fiddling with the wheels.

 

Sometimes I let the promo front axle just stay as is and flop around a little.

 

In this case it had too much slop for me so I encased it in a brass tube.

 

As I've mentioned before, I use almost all old stuff to build these, recycling almost everything I can.

 

You can use these dollar store bins to keep everything organized. I never throw any of this stuff out just incase I need a small bit.

 

DSC09522.JPG

 

Here I've chosen a brass tube that fits nicely on the promo axle. The tube was cleaned with a Scotchbrite pad.

 

DSC09519.JPG

 

Tubing was measured and cut to size by rolling an X-acto over it on a hard surface. You can use the blade to deburr the inside of the tube.

 

DSC09520.JPG

 

The axle slots in the chassis were opened slightly to accept the tube.

 

The axle was polished and a small drop of oil applied before inserting it in the tube.

 

Later it will be Crazy glued in or you can use epoxy if you prefer.

 

It spins free and smooth.

 

DSC09521.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#11 Lone Wolf

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 05:52 PM

Just a quickie for today. 

 

Setting up rear spacers. I like to use tubing instead of those fugly nylon spacers.

 

This was an extremely tight fit so no production length would work.

 

Couple quick tips here. After trying to make two spacers the same size it always seemed it was impossible so I came up with this jig. An axle in a vise with two nuts to lock and set length. Then they can be filed to the same size. If you are extra anal you can color the axle tip with a sharpie to let you know you've bottommed out between spacer filing. 

 

DSC09569.JPG

 

After you've cut and filed them you will end up with marks and such. To clean them and polish them I use this method. An axle in a Dremel with a nut to hold the spacers. They can be cleaned up nicely with a Scotchbrite shown here.

 

DSC09570.JPG

 

Here they are on the truck. The fit is super tight. Took some work to get it where I liked it.  

 

DSC09571.JPG

 

 

 

 


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Joe Lupo


#12 olescratch

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 06:46 PM

Another fine practice to be utilized to help save fingers!  I do the same except use a belt sander instead of a file.


John Stewart

#13 Lone Wolf

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 03:23 PM

Here she is sitting on all fours.

 

DSC09575.JPG

 

One thing about these pickup conversions is there will be screw heads in the bed. Could be avoided I guess but I'm just keeping these simple.

 

I decided to make a Tonneau cover to hide them.

 

From my credo of never throwing anything away I used this plastic license plate that someone gave me. It's pretty thick and has some texture to it.

 

I cut out a shape to fit and with a little fiddling it fits.

 

DSC09576.JPG

 

After two different black sprays neither one was to my liking so I just brushed it with Tamiya acrylic.

 

I will give it another light sanding and a second coat of paint.

 

I will glue four pieces of dense sponge underneath to hold it in place.  

 

DSC09577.JPG

 

Right now there is a guide under there too. If I get ambitious today I will elaborate.

 

 

 

 


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#14 Lone Wolf

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Posted 17 December 2017 - 04:54 PM

Getting ready to wrap this up. 

 

After all four wheels are on I decide on a guide. I go to the box and find one with a long post. I always use 1/8" posts because of space concerns. 

 

Hard to see here but I have already installed a brass tube to set up the height of the guide off of the block. I'll get to the tube. 

 

I also wanted to show that a little detail paint can make these look more realistic. Here one side only of the grille and bumper have been detailed for comparison. My hands and eyesight are not as good as they used to be so whatever it is it is.

 

DSC09578.JPG

 

A hole is drilled and a piece of 1/8" I.D. tube is inserted in the hole. I like to make the hole slightly small and enlarge it gradually for a nice tight fit. 

 

You can also see the holes that have been drilled for the leads. 

 

Not much room on this particular truck to retain the guide. They usually stay in with no problem but if it bothers you, a small hole can be drilled in the post and a screw can be inserted to expand the post to prevent it from dropping out. 

 

If you have never heard of it, Marklin wire is the way to go.

 

DSC09579.JPG

 

Here is another pic of the tube and lead.

 

To make life simple I will just solder the leads to the braids without using screws. Again, your preference here.

 

DSC09580.JPG

 

Here most everything has been painted flat black. I brushed it which leaves a little texture to the bottom so it looks a little used.

 

Sometimes I paint the motor and bracket as well but here it's left natural.

 

I won't bore you with the final assembly, polishing and detailing. 

 

Hope you enjoyed this. Thanks for looking.

 

DSC09581.JPG

 

Thought I'd throw in a pic of this truck I did years ago. This thing runs fantastic on the track and actually moves out really good.

 

Ask any questions if you got  em'

 

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DSC09583.JPG

 

 

 


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#15 olescratch

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Posted 17 December 2017 - 08:32 PM

I'd like to build one of the tow truck.  Was that one of the promo models also.  Both look nice!


John Stewart

#16 Lone Wolf

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 08:31 PM

Here is what I used to build the wrecker. Although these are over 20 years old they can be had for a song. The detail is surprisingly accurate. 

 

DSC09584.JPG

 

Check this one out as well. 

 

https://www.ebay.com...FsAAOSw1QpZ-THM

 

I may get around to one of these or I will do one sooner ( different from the wrecker ) if there is enough interest.

 

This one comes with cool accessories and would make a great hauler for and old race car etc.

 

These come pretty cheap as well.


Joe Lupo


#17 olescratch

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 09:09 PM

Awesome on the lead to the pick-up (one on order). I'd like to know the scale of some of the other items, it may help to decide on obtaining some of them!


John Stewart

#18 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 05:36 AM

Sweet work Joe!   :good:


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#19 Lone Wolf

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 11:37 AM

Thanks again for the positives.

 

John, I would say these Mobil trucks are 1/24. Not actually "promos" as most of those are 1/25. I prefer 1/25 but not all body styles come in that scale. Sometimes I just gotta go 1/24 if it's something I like.

 

Glad you got the bug and bought a truck to do. 

 

There are many different options for motivation. Here are some I built all using different drive lines. I like to keep the full interiors if possible.

 

For instance, the tow truck uses an MPC chassis and the orange pickup uses a integral type motor. 

 

Another thing I like to do is get as much tire on the rear as I can.

 

As always, I try to use all vintage parts and recycle whenever I can.

 

DSC09585.JPG

 

DSC09586.JPG

 

DSC09588.JPG

 

DSC09587.JPG

 

 


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Joe Lupo


#20 olescratch

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 06:07 PM

Nice fleet!  Have you tried to build a wire chassis for one yet?  I will build a chassis from wire/rod to go with the pick-up, once I get to it!  In the mean time, I'll be watching and taking notes!  BTW, how do they handle?


John Stewart

#21 Pete L.

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 06:48 PM

 Great job on the Silverado Joe, they're all real beauties !!! :good: :good: :good:


Peter J. Linszky

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#22 Lone Wolf

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 10:53 AM

Thanks Pete, You build some really nice cars as well. You should show some of your work.

 

John, the ones I've ran all handle excellent. None are super fast. I had to add a little weight to the front of he cop car but all others ran well as built. 

 

You get some strange looks with these on the track. I ran the wrecker at Buzzys and a guy came running over and said no die-cast cars allowed on the track  :D

 

When I showed him it was plastic he reluctantly let me run it. 

 

Funny you should mention building a chassis.

 

After the pick up was done I dug into my extensive project pile to resurrect this.

 

It's a Johan '55 Pontiac promo. 

 

DSC09589.JPG

 

DSC09590.JPG

 

The chassis was built from scraps. I raced this quite a bit but never actually finished it. It started to slow down so I just relegated it to the to do pile.

 

Now for the rebuild and completion.

 

As I stated earlier every one of these is different. You can see I made a unique snap in body mount system with snaps I found in my mothers sewing box.

 

They work great and disassembly is a snap (get it  :) )

 

One issue I ran into is that the rear stub mounts off the chassis were not very strong.

 

DSC09591.JPG

 

I've decided to redesign the mount to wrap around the motor and attach to the motor mount for strength.  

 

DSC09592.JPG

 

Here you can see it in place.

 

DSC09593.JPG

 

As I continue to mention I always recycle. Here is the 60 year old solder I still use from when a local hardware store burnt down and my older brothers went and looted the place  :).

 

Luckily the solder was far enough away from the heat. 

 

DSC09595.JPG

 

The motor is a Frankenstein that has been disassembled for inspection. 

 

If anybody cares I could go through the whole build like the Silverado. Let me know.

 

 

 


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#23 olescratch

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 06:57 PM

Snaps!!!???  


John Stewart

#24 hiline2

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 11:19 PM

WOW !! Fantastic !!  The Red Pontiac would fit in the DC Punk Proxy race class , We're running 36Ds in different forms (stock and modified). Plus Hardbody and clear type. plus the yellow Chevy PU would qualify in the Padlock classes. Any close up pics of the old yellow Chevy ?


Paul Bass

#25 Lone Wolf

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 08:25 AM

John, here are the snaps. These might be larger than the ones I used. Mine were over 50 years old out of my late mothers sewing box. They solder onto a brass tube or rod and actually hold pretty good.

 

http://www.michaels....r/10354226.html

 

 

Thanks Paul. Here is more info on the Pick-up. Don't know how to link it but you can paste this in the forum search.

 

1950 Chevy 3100 pick-up quick build

 

Not sure about racing that 50 Chevy as it not a speed demon. It runs great but is kinda slow.

 

Where can I find info on the 36D race?


Joe Lupo


#26 hiline2

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 08:36 AM

John, here are the snaps. These might be larger than the ones I used. Mine were over 50 years old out of my late mothers sewing box. They solder onto a brass tube or rod and actually hold pretty good.

 

http://www.michaels....r/10354226.html

 

 

Thanks Paul. Here is more info on the Pick-up. Don't know how to link it but you can paste this in the forum search.

 

1950 Chevy 3100 pick-up quick build

 

Not sure about racing that 50 Chevy as it not a speed demon. It runs great but is kinda slow.

 

Where can I find info on the 36D race?

Here is a quick link on the rules for the last race, so start here

 

http://slotblog.net/...nd-rails-proxy/

 

then pop over to this link and sign up to ger into the Vintage Drag racing !

 

http://dc-punk.freeforums.net/


Paul Bass





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