7 replies to this topic

[havlicek]

     A while back, Sam gifted me a couple of these Champion C sized cans.  These are the only one-piece or "drawn" (*as in the Mabuchi cans of various sizes) C cans I've seen or heard of.  With so many bizarre and infrequently seen slot car motors having been produced over the years...or even adapted for slot cars from other uses, maybe there are others.

     Anyway, whilst rummaging/foraging through my drawer of "C" stuff, I came across some of what *I think* are Champion (Mura) end bells.  I "figgered" it was time to put the two together and see what's what.  Both the cans and end bells are minty/new, never having been used before, so not having to grind/disassemble/clean/polish/repaint is a nice little time-saver.  The can sheetmetal is much thinner than that used for the typical modern "formed-folded-welded" type cans.  Being formed from a single piece of metal though, they're more than strong enough, and there's probably a nice little weight-savings-benefit here.  The cutouts are small and should make for good field strength stuff, but the physicists would know more about that. 

     The end bell casting is a dead-bang early Mura C design, just without the "Mura" molded on the inside.  No doubt Mura must have produced these for use by Champion, as the expense of doing that by someone else (*not to mention the probable litigation) would have made that a "no-no".  The end bell hardware is also pretty much the same as the Mura "Green Can" hardware, but with the front bussbar located lower for clearance...approximately in line with the brush hood.  The rear-side hardware has the built-in glue-shield, which may or may not have been a "Champion" thing, since racers often added their own ways of shielding the motor from all that goop being thrown directly at the commutator.  The bussbars are "stoopid-long", and I'll probably cut them a little shorter.  Any longer and you wouldn't need lead wires. 

     I installed a set of Yellow Dot magnets in this example.  While I've seen it said that these cans are still sought by the drag crowd, I'm thinking more along the lines of a motor for road racing.  Here's the basic setup, with only a single mod done by me.  I stuck the assembled end bell in the mill and cut slots in the hoods for shunt clearance.  Oh and, the end bell came with no spring posts, just the Mura style screws at all four positions.  I switched those out for button head screws with the standard size (.050") allen recess and added some aluminum posts.

[Samiam]

I knew you would turn those into some neat motors.

 

Did you have to mill the EB to clear the can tabs?

[old & gray]

Did you have to mill the EB to clear the can tabs?

 

Not if it was a Champion end bell, they had reliefs for the tabs.

[havlicek]

I knew you would turn those into some neat motors.

 

Did you have to mill the EB to clear the can tabs?

 

Hi Sam,

     The end bell is (*as Bob said) plug and play, but I don't like the lockup between the end bell and can.  No doubt because of the thinner can metal, the fit is a little on the sloppy side, as opposed to the Mura where the end bell is a really tight fit.  On top of that, having the two screw tabs vertically aligned on the flats makes for a perfect point of rotation...the end bell will still be able to move.  I'm going to lop off the tabs and use screws on the can sides per Mura.

[old & gray]

SO...  I decided to stop relying on my memory and look at some hardware. The can is a Champion apparently drawn not folded, the third hole was added by Russ with a punch he fabricated; the end bell is a Mura, buss bars by Champion, glue shield by me; heat sinks by Bullit cutouts on top and folded front. This motor dates 1974 to 1976.

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[havlicek]

Nice Bob!  I have an arm cooking in the easybake oven as we speak.    I hacked off the tabs and drilled the can sides...MUCH better.  I'll have to take the end bell hardware apart and go over it, because the bussbar bends are off, the aluminum plates aren't straight, and everything needs lining-up.  I may stick a set of elephant ears on there, but don't think I have any of the same type.  At final assembly, I'll also have to work out shunts and whatnot.

[zipper]

Nice. I do have a survivor ca. 1974 in this F1. It's  a Rocket setup, just 2 holes and a Rocket s25 in. No engravings.

[havlicek]

Nice. I do have a survivor ca. 1974 in this F1. It's  a Rocket setup, just 2 holes and a Rocket s25 in. No engravings.

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  Another nice one Pekka!

Speaking of S25, I have this here one that just needs a light grind and balance:

 

So far, it's not engraved either  , but even with a couple of turns more than I would normally do for a #25 wind, it still comes in at a healthy .048 ohms.  As Forged in Fire host Doug Marcaida might say:  "this arm will kill!".