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Juggling multiple projects


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 06:47 PM

Since doing motors and armatures doesn't take near as much time as doing a chassis, nor painting a body (*especially when a Noose or a Jairus is doing their magic), I often wind up with more than one poker in the fire.  Here's a motor I'm doing for fun.  The can is a later Mura (*although not the last version of their C can).  While I think these still used the same end bell as the earlier Green Can, I chose one of the later end bells for better ventilation and a bit lighter weight.  The end bell was still of the "one up/one down" variety, rather than "dual overhead", and I went with whatever hardware caught my eye.  Let's face it, this style motor (*even though it's getting pretty long in the tooth at this point) isn't exactly a collectible vintage piece.

I machined the can flat on all 6 sides, and it looked so nice, I didn't have the heart to cover it up with solid color...or worse, leave it unfinished to rust.  I shot VHT "Anodized Blue" and then overshot a healthy coat of clear...both coats getting baked after air-drying.  I "figgered" the blue can would look spiffy with the blue end bell.  Instead of buss bars, the end bell just got lead wire tabs.  The can originally had a "20" arm, so that's probably where I'm headed here.  Magnets need some TLC and a good ZAP to complete the setup.

IMG_2393.JPG IMG_2394.JPG IMG_2395.JPG


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#2 olescratch

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 09:19 PM

Luv that blue VHT.  "20" turns right?  I like the look of these motors when you combine the old/new parts.  


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#3 havlicek

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 05:32 AM

Luv that blue VHT.  "20" turns right?  I like the look of these motors when you combine the old/new parts.  

Hi John,

     Yeah, the semi-transparent nature of the paint is a very cool thing.  Here, with all the corners so crisp and the metal so flat, I think it makes for a really pretty effect.

     Sorry for the confusion about the armature, it would be G20 or 38 turns of #27awg.  The wind makes for a very fast and still pretty reliable motor.


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#4 havlicek

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 07:21 AM

I should also mention that these (and other) modern C cans are all perfectly fine designs.  I guess the push for lighter and lighter can designs (*less metal) has made them less-desirable as the next design comes along.  There is also something of a "chasing your tail" thing here.  As the cans got more and more irrelevant, people used stronger magnets until the can became nothing more than a way to hold the magnets and bearing and end bell in place.  This can and others like it can make for a perfectly fine (*and fast too) motor.  As we've seen with the various modern D can motors and even the Hawk and PS minicans (*which are essentially the same motor scaled-down a bit), these CAN also be cheap/affordable.

 


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#5 olescratch

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 05:39 PM

OK! G20, thats definately easier for me to understand.  A 20ga wire would be something to see run until the smoke lol! 


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#6 havlicek

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 08:15 PM

OK! G20, thats definately easier for me to understand.  A 20ga wire would be something to see run until the smoke lol! 

 

Yeah...for sure!  Speaking of G20:

IMG_2397.JPG IMG_2396.JPG


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#7 Geary Carrier

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 10:47 PM

Very nice indeed...


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#8 havlicek

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 05:53 AM

Thanks Geary.  I can get to 38T/#27awg with a conventionally-wound 6 layer coil (as in this one) or with a 5 layer coil reverse-wound.  The reverse wind makes for a fuller coil with less gaps, but I don't know which actually runs better/faster...if either even does.  I think the reverse-wound coils *might* be more stable, and maybe even a little more aerodynamic.  If stack grinding is a good thing because it reduces turbulence, then going for a more compact coil *might* be something worth chasing.  

Bottom line, I can't smoosh and manhandle the wire enough to get to 38/27 with a four layer coil on these lams :) , so I only have the two basic choices.  It would take some serious track testing to know with any certainty if there were advantages or disadvantages to either, and that ain't me!

Like I've said many times, the #27 wire arm, in it's many different forms, is a great all-around performer.  In this motor (*or any C-can motor), it could be a solid road or even drag racer.  In short stack strap motors, a big buck "sooper-dooper" money-pit.  It's kind of past silly in the old D can motors, but that's not to say people didn't go there...or even beyond.  :D


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#9 Phil Hackett

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 02:44 PM

I should also mention that these (and other) modern C cans are all perfectly fine designs.  I guess the push for lighter and lighter can designs (*less metal) has made them less-desirable as the next design comes along.  There is also something of a "chasing your tail" thing here.  As the cans got more and more irrelevant, people used stronger magnets until the can became nothing more than a way to hold the magnets and bearing and end bell in place.  This can and others like it can make for a perfectly fine (*and fast too) motor.  As we've seen with the various modern D can motors and even the Hawk and PS minicans (*which are essentially the same motor scaled-down a bit), these CAN also be cheap/affordable.

 

 

The same can be said for chassis: the main part of the chassis was only to hold the guide flag to the motor/back axle assembly... oh and to mount a bod..err...a downforce device...


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#10 havlicek

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 07:38 PM

 

The same can be said for chassis: the main part of the chassis was only to hold the guide flag to the motor/back axle assembly... oh and to mount a bod..err...a downforce device...

 

 

:) Yeah well, the chassis used to be important to locate front axles or half axles and wheels too...so that's a lot of stuff.  Of course, a proper model car should have four wheels, even if the front ones don't really help...or even hurt, these thing are supposed to mimic 1:1 cars after all.  Anyway, for several reasons, the "C" sized can (*even older designs like this one) still seems about the best overall package for anything from slower more affordable racing to some very fast racing.


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#11 Phil Hackett

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Posted 20 December 2017 - 10:15 PM

 

 

:) Yeah well, the chassis used to be important to locate front axles or half axles and wheels too...so that's a lot of stuff.  Of course, a proper model car should have four wheels, even if the front ones don't really help...or even hurt, these thing are supposed to mimic 1:1 cars after all.  Anyway, for several reasons, the "C" sized can (*even older designs like this one) still seems about the best overall package for anything from slower more affordable racing to some very fast racing.

 

I agree on the 4 wheel idea.. but my racing career ended a long time ago and my opinion doesn't matter to those who race today. Being a relic isn't disturbing unless you let it bother you. I'm so over the racing-side of the business. I'm more of an observer since about 1995....


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#12 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 04:52 PM

...and another project starting to take shape.  What was originally a lowly Falcon, is beginning to look like something else.  The can is mostly done, but still needs to be cut down to it's final length.

IMG_2401.JPG


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#13 Geary Carrier

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:09 PM

Nice to have a few toys that cut to play with...


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#14 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 06:42 PM

Nice to have a few toys that cut to play with...

 

 

It sure is Geary.  I'm saving my pennies to get a better lathe, probably the Sherline.  The Grizzly is fine for what it is, but you can hit the wall as soon as you start screwing-around with steel.


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#15 olescratch

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 07:14 PM

My favorites!  These are by far the best use of once tossed-away materials that are in abundance (for now).  


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#16 Samiam

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 07:25 PM

:good:  :popcorm1:


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