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Bearings and bushings


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#1 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 12:32 AM

I was wondering if there might be a video out there somewhere showing how to replace rear bearing and bushings.

Never tried it and several of my cars need them replaced. I prefer bearings, but I understand its a little trickier than bushings.


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#2 John Streisguth

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 06:41 AM

What type of cars?

 

If they have bushings currently, is it safe to assume they are soldered in?  


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#3 Samiam

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:41 AM

For bushings I use an axle that is slightly tight. Lines them up better. When they're good an axle should just fall out when the chassis is turned sideways. Bearings....I'm still learning. :dash2:


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#4 SlowBeas

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:01 AM

You're right, Kevin, replacing bearings can be a bit trickier with the danger of either glue or solder gumming up the works. Bushings are a bit easier, and that's the method I'd suggest if you're new at this.

 

Sam offers a great tip about using a nice, tight-fitting axle. Also, if you have a chassis jig, that helps a lot to ensure you're keeping things nice and straight/square. If you use solder, be sure to put a little dab of oil on your axle to ensure you don't solder the axle to the bushing.

 

If done correctly, Sam is right; the axle should slide out freely. This indicates very little friction between the axle and bushings. Friction -- in any area of your slot car -- can rob you of performance.

 

As for a video...not a bad idea. I didn't find anything truly information in a brief YouTube search. I tried. Maybe the Steube video has information on bushing placement?

 

Good luck, and let us know if you have specific questions.

jb


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#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:05 AM

I'm someone who doesn't believe in soldering axle bearings. I've always glued flanged bearings in. Over the years, I've used various Loctite retaining compounds to adhere them. Motor bearings are a different issue.


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I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#6 Richard G With

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 12:06 PM

If you're using axle tubes, it's helpful to cut a slot in the end of the tube a little longer than the bearing/bushing. This is helpful in getting oil inside the bearing and allows access for a piece of wire or jeweler's screwdriver to lever out the bearing.

HVR sells a green bearing retaining compound in a small economical bottle. It releases with soldering iron heat.
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#7 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 10:27 PM

I'm someone who doesn't believe in soldering axle bearings. I've always glued flanged bearings in. Over the years, I've used various Loctite retaining compounds to adhere them. Motor bearings are a different issue

which Locktite do you prefer, I think I remember Noose mentioning 247 and how do you remove them ?


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#8 NJ Racer

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 10:49 PM

I use Red 271


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#9 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 11:02 PM

Forty years ago I was able to get a high temperature retaining compound that worked with both motor bearings (heat) & axle bearings. It's not still made by Loctite. The last I got was 609  from Small Parts. Small Parts is now part of Amazon. I would think it would be available from any industrial parts warehouse too. These retaining compounds do not dry like Loctite red thread locker so bearing removal is easily done with a small punch (1/8" axle) or a pair of needlenose pliers. Some people use the red Loctite for installing bearings, but it makes future removal more difficult.


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#10 Pablo

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 06:23 AM

which Locktite do you prefer, I think I remember Noose mentioning 247 and how do you remove them ?

Smack the wall real hard one time, remove the axle, and they slide right off.


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#11 John Streisguth

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 06:59 AM

I use Loctite 638, which is designed for the job.  For removal, just heat the bearing with a soldering iron a little bit and you can pull them out with a pair of pliers. 


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#12 DE38

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:27 PM

I started using a product from Vibra-Tite #54210, it is a green high strength retaining compound. Jim at HVR told me about it, as far as I know he does not stock this,he got it on Amazon.

I was using the blue Loctite but it wasnt working to well,lost a couple bearings, one in an F1 race,it destroyed the axle tube :o


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#13 MSwiss

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:42 PM

Blue Loctite would not be a good choice.

 

That's what I used for screws, when assembling motors, with aluminum endbells, just so they would not vibrate loose.

 

They obviously could be removed, with slight effort, to break loose the initial bond.

 

Red 271 is real strong stuff.

 

I had good success with it, when I sold RTR BB front wheels.

 

But in a situation where it's possible to solder, I still do, as I carryover from Group 7 racing.

 

The guys who "glued" their bearings in, seemed to always have a failure, eventually.

 

With soldering them in, I never did.

 

Again, all Group 7 stuff.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if there are Retro racers who haven't had issues with gluing them in.


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#14 DE38

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:46 PM

Strange thing is the reason I started using the blue was because Mike Katz is using it and I have never seen him have a failure and I have been racing with Mike for a long time now.


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#15 John Streisguth

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 01:59 PM

Charlie, that Vibra-tite product is very close to the Loctite 638 I mentioned.

 

The key to the "glues" is making sure everything is clean and free of any oils.  Also, they have a shelf life of one year from date of shipment.  If the container has been opened, I would replace it if it's more than a few months from opening.


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#16 Half Fast

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 02:09 PM

 

The key to the "glues" is making sure everything is clean and free of any oils.  Also, they have a shelf life of one year from date of shipment.  If the container has been opened, I would replace it if it's more than a few months from opening.

 

Which makes it very uneconomical to use for the tiny amounts we would use for bearing installation.

 

Cheers


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#17 DE38

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 02:11 PM

I made sure everything was clean , dry and oil free, but last Wed Retro race Mike showed me the tube of blue Loctite he uses and it looked 10 yrs. old :unknw:  I do know it does have a shelf life after opening, my tube is fairly new.


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#18 MSwiss

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 03:25 PM

Mike K is probably better at avoiding catastrophic wrecks. LOL

 

Blue is advertised as medium strength.

 

Red is advertised as hi strength.

 

Again, I use solder.

 

I would sooner have the bearings last 8 races, and have a .01% chance of coming out, vs. 16 races, and a 2% chance.


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#19 Brinkley47

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 03:40 PM

I have lost several glued bearings in retro. I hit the wall a lot, though.
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#20 Dennis David

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 04:06 PM

Loctite 638

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#21 John Streisguth

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 04:14 PM

You can get this in very small bottles for about $18.  


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#22 DE38

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 05:23 PM

Mike K is probably better at avoiding catastrophic wrecks. LOL

 

 

 

 

Good one Mike  :)

Actually I have become pretty good as of late at avoiding those myself.  I knew the blue was med. I was using it because thats what Mike was using. The F1 was a deslot without hitting anything next lap it let go and when I put it on the jig I had to pull the frt wheels and those bearings also fell out (HVR wheels).

So yea I dont use the blue anymore.


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Charlie Shmerler


#23 slotcarone

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 06:49 PM

A lot depends on the fit of the bearing in the hole! It must be a pretty snug fit for any type of glue/Loctite to work well. I also polish the chassis and inside of the axle tubes. Could make a difference on why I have not had any failures. :)


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#24 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 07:53 PM

Thanks for all the feed back ! Greatly appreciated, might try Mikes way as my soldering skills suck


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#25 swodem

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 08:34 PM

638 is good enough to secure gears to axles if you want to get rid of the grub screw and turn down the boss


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