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#1 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:13 AM

     Of the four billet cans I made, #3 never got completed.  With a break in the action over here waiting for a bunch of arms coming back from balancing, I figured it was time to get busy.  I epoxied-in a set of those goofy-strong solid neos, finished prepping an end bell and built an arm to fit.  I don't know where I'm going yet with the wind, but it definitely WON'T be 65/30  ;)

IMG_2456.JPG


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#2 bradblohm

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:31 AM

Do something that will make dogs bark in your neighborhood, but please take pictures!


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Brad Blohm

#3 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:38 AM

Do something that will make dogs bark in your neighborhood, but please take pictures!

 

Your wish(es) are my command Brad!


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#4 bradblohm

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:49 AM

One wind of 1-gauge?


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#5 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:00 AM

One wind of 1-gauge?

 

That's where my "wish-granting" ends Brad.  ;)  Even 24 or 23 gauge doesn't make sense, and the only time I do that (* or an equivalent double or triple) is when specifically asked to by someone willing to pay for it.  On such a short stack (*somewhere between .350" and .400"), almost any wind suddenly becomes a lot more "serious".  Making a motor that can only *maybe* do a lap at a time is for rich people and dreamers!


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#6 Samiam

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:05 AM

One wind of 1-gauge?

 

Nah, something milder like two turns of a coat hanger. :wizard:   


Sam Levitch
 
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#7 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:33 AM

...back to reality.  ;)  The arm's spacing has been set, the timing locked-in and powder coat done.  We're ready for the fun part.

IMG_2458.JPG

 

Com has also been cleaned of all the crud that comes with making them, and the arm checked one more time to see that it sits where it should, by sticking it in the setup.

IMG_2457.JPG


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#8 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 12:40 PM

In keeping with Brad's request for pictures, here's the arm wound and "welded".  To get an accurate resistance reading, I always clean off the burnt gunk that gets on the com (*also because I figure that stuff isn't good to leave on there anyway).  Here the wind is my "H-20" (37/27) and resistance is .120 ohms.  By anyone's measure (*even those nutty eurosports guys :D ), this arm in this motor will be very fast.  "Race-winning"?...certainly not, but still very fast.

IMG_2459.JPG


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#9 Geary Carrier

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 02:27 PM

Hi John,

 

What brand of end bell hardware are you using and is it still available or just your personal stock?

 

Thanks,

g


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#10 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 02:34 PM

Hi Geary,

     From what I understand, it's just an older version of ProSlot's C hardware.  It seems to do a little better job of fitting/aligning the brushes (*maybe just an illusion), and perfectly fits the end bell's drilling.  I also think that the longer spring cups may help as additional "heat sinks", and the hardware seems to allow for longer brushes.


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#11 Geary Carrier

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 02:36 PM

Thanks John...


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#12 bradblohm

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 03:05 PM

Your winding is gorgeous!  Sorry if it's been answered before, but does the neatness of the winding matter, or is that just showing off?


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Brad Blohm

#13 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 03:46 PM

Your winding is gorgeous!  Sorry if it's been answered before, but does the neatness of the winding matter, or is that just showing off?

 

 

Thank you Brad!  First off, it is most definitely NOT just showing off.  I've spent an awful lot of time learning how to get things as neat and tight as possible, and doing these that way has very real advantages.

1)It's is far easier to get consistent resistance readings from pole-to-pole if the coils are neat and the winding pattern is exactly the same on all three poles.  Consistency is a really major factor in how well motors run, both in the winding, as well as the setup itself.  If you have two armatures and one is dead-bang consistent, but another is a little lower with some variance, I'd rather have the consistent one.

2)Related to #1, neat winding DOES help getting to lower resistance readings.  A neatly wound armature will often have lower resistance numbers than another with the same number of turns wound sloppily.  When winding, just piling wire on top of wire will result in a greater length of wire being used to produce the same number of turns.  **That is not to say that a sloppy looking arm will necessarily run poorly, and a lot of the old Muras and some of the "boutique" rewinders arms looked like doo-doo, but ran great.

3)A tight/neat coil *can* be a mechanically stronger one too, with less likelihood of falling apart under the forces of rotation.

4)Neat, tight and consistent coils *may* also produce an armature with better natural balance.

There are a lot of good reasons to try as hard as heck to make these things neat.  They may not guarantee a great arm (*there's way more to it than just winding neatly), but they can all add-up.


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 03:51 PM

The arm has been tied, epoxied and the com has been cut.  Final resistance is exactly .118 ohms per pole.  The arm is ready to go out for Alpha to do their grind/balance magic.  The setup gets bagged and put aside until final assembly.

IMG_2461.JPG

...and just to be danged double-sure there are no awful surprises later, the arm gets stuck in the setup one more time to make sure nothing is hitting something it isn't supposed to hit.  Paranoia is a good thing here, much better than "assuming"...because when you "assume" you...oh well...you know.  :)

IMG_2462.JPG


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#15 Half Fast

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 07:57 PM

My my that's pretty :good:
 
Cheers

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#16 havlicek

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 06:57 AM

Thanks Bill!


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#17 Robert BG

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 12:14 PM

Things are really looking nice,I'd have to look but if you want some cobalt mags for one sometime I might have a few old sets I can donate ;-)


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#18 havlicek

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 03:45 PM

Things are really looking nice,I'd have to look but if you want some cobalt mags for one sometime I might have a few old sets I can donate ;-)

 

 

Thanks Robert.  Sure, I can always use donations!  :)  


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#19 havlicek

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 03:45 PM

The arm is back and the assembly went smooth as "buttah" with the last of my first four billet cans.  I will do some more of these at some point in the future, but that's down the road a bit.  Meanwhile, this motor just makes a lovely sound that's quite different than what you get from a can motor, and is all but vibration free thanks to a nifty balance job and (I guess?) the extra rigidity of the aluminum end bell.

Parting is such sweet sorrow ;)

Billet Strap Arm Small.jpg

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#20 Geary Carrier

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 06:41 PM

A thing of beauty...


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Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#21 olescratch

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 06:51 PM

You have a limit to what you'll put in these?  That can combined with an aluminum end bell could hold some heat.


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#22 havlicek

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 09:21 PM

A thing of beauty...

 

Thanks Geary.

 

 

You have a limit to what you'll put in these?  That can combined with an aluminum end bell could hold some heat.

 

With the right magnets, a #25 should be fine.  What would be great would be a set of cobalts, but they don't seem to exist for this size can.  The neos should work too, but operating temps could become a problem for neos...I'm not sure.


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