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A machining dilemma, er, drilling a hole...


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#1 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:06 PM

I need to drill a 3/32 hole in the center of this 4" x 1/2" motor shaft...

It turns clockwise when looking down at it.

Any ideas?

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Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#2 Pablo

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:17 PM

Not a clue. But whatever it is, you are wrong to try it and this is the end of the hobby as we know it.


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#3 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:19 PM

I do have; a decent large drill press, a wood lathe with a ton of runout, a great imagination.

I dont have; a metal lathe, enough sense to forget about this project.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#4 Bryan Warmack

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:30 PM

   You could spend a lot of time with a mill set up, or hanging it off the side of a drill press with an elaborate clamping arrangement or just going for it with some large vise grips and a center punch to start the hole. I assume the 3/32 hole will be threaded for some sort of mounting screw...?



#5 Booger

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 08:56 PM

You want to cross drill the shaft for a pin I'm guessing....

 

13119981.jpg

 

This installs in your drill press and can be found for $5-10 dollars.....Center drill first,finish with the correct drill.


Gary "Booger" Baker

#6 Phil Hackett

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:35 PM

To drill the center of the end of the shaft you'll need to take the motor apart and then find someone with a lathe who'll get the hole in the center.... don't try it in a drill press.

 

it's not as simple as you think. The end can be on center but the "axle" can be wobbling.


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#7 airhead

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:51 PM

​Have your friend with the lathe turn a piece with the hole size you want to drill, and another hole half way through the size of the motor shaft. The fixture will only be about 1.5" long.


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#8 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:52 PM

I'm attempting to build a very low cost "commercial" tire grinding machine. This motor will be used to directly drive the tire.

I had originally planned on grinding this motors shaft down to 3/32. After speaking with Bill Bugenis I realized the shaft on this motor is not hardened steel and is too soft for what I envisioned.

I would like to reduce the instances and duration of time I touch donuts, hubs and set screws during the assembly process.

The method I use to mount donuts requires a hub to be mounted to an axle during the gluing process. I'd like to leave the tire on the axle and just slide it into this motors shaft for trimming and the grind.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#9 airhead

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:03 PM

​My tire machine has a similar motor. It uses an adapter like the one I described , a set screw holds it to the motor shaft and the other end is drilled for a 3/32 axel also held in with a set screw.


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#10 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:04 PM

Billy,

Would a 1/2"ID sleeve about 6" long with a 2"long x 1/2" OD dowel inserted on one end with 2, 3/32" bearings on the center line be an appropriate jig of sorts to find center and be parallel to the motor shaft?
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#11 Samiam

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:04 PM

You would be better off driving the axle as a jack shaft. 


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#12 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:08 PM

A beltdrive setup is to complicated and would drive costs skyhigh.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#13 Samiam

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:14 PM

Any run out and play in the motor shaft will be amplified with the axle extending off it. 


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Sam Levitch
 
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#14 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 10:25 PM

I checked the shaft with a dial indicator and was pleasantly surprised with how little runout was present. A hudy would make quick work of any minor off center I might encounter(I hope).
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#15 Booger

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 11:26 PM

OHHHH!.....Wrong center.

 

 

 

If you want find center on the cheap,turn on the motor on and hold sandpaper firmly against the end of the shaft,concentric rings will show center......Like tree rings.....Then what?..... :D

 

I would cut the shaft short as possible,install sleeve on shaft with 1/2 x 3/32,install axle stub into sleeve with a screw.....you can support other side of axle stub or not.


Gary "Booger" Baker

#16 Bryan Warmack

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 12:06 AM

   You'd be better off to cut the shaft on the motor as short as possible and then machining a precision cylindrical adaptor with the shaft OD reamed on one end and a reamed 3/32 hole on the other end with set screws holding everything together.  Like Billy Watson said.  I made one very similar using a Harbor Freight motor and it works great. Keep everything as short as possible as even a very small amount of run out will be exaggerated the farther the axle is away from the motor bearing


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#17 airhead

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 06:48 AM

My old tire machine looks like this, sorry for the mess

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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 07:25 AM

Billy, your tire machine is metric. It started as one sold by American Edelstaal, who also sold the Unimat lathe. I believe both were made in Austria. The cross-feed & the twin steel rod ways are the same as on the lathe.


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#19 havlicek

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 10:12 AM

   You'd be better off to cut the shaft on the motor as short as possible and then machining a precision cylindrical adaptor with the shaft OD reamed on one end and a reamed 3/32 hole on the other end with set screws holding everything together.  Like Billy Watson said.  I made one very similar using a Harbor Freight motor and it works great. Keep everything as short as possible as even a very small amount of run out will be exaggerated the farther the axle is away from the motor bearing

 

Ab-so-freakin'-lootely what Bryan said.  Even if you had a lathe capable of machining the end of the shaft accurately, and could thread the hole, it would be waaaay easier and cheaper to just cut the shaft and make an adapter on that lathe.  


John Havlicek

#20 airhead

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 07:46 PM

​If some one made a tire machine like this today, I believe it would sell.

I got this one in 1965 and has turned thousands of tires, and as you can see from the rubber shavings, it is still doing its job.


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#21 MSwiss

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 08:17 PM

What cuts the rubber on it?


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#22 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 08:31 PM

​If some one made a tire machine like this today, I believe it would sell.

 

Some of the old slot car mags used to advertise this machine for about $50. Today it would cost much more. I think the original machine used a #11 X-acto blade to cut down German Graupner  airplane tires for slot car use.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#23 MSwiss

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 08:52 PM

I thought it used a blade.

 

How well does that work with foam?

 

Is the finished product good enough to take a few laps and go win a race with it?


Mike Swiss
 
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden AveWestmont, IL 60559, ( 708) 203-8003
mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516
Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#24 airhead

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 08:35 AM

​I Don't use a blade anymore, instead I glue 60 grit on the cross  feed to make the rough cut, then 120 grit on a block by hand then to 320 to finish,

 

The tires are good enough to race, even though I don't win, they know I am there. 

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#25 Robert BG

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 09:27 AM

I really think the adapter is the way to go.Especially since you may want to do other axle sizes down the line.There's really no point in pigeon holing yourself into one size from the start ;-)


Robert Fothergill





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