5 replies to this topic

[havlicek]

Here's a "quickie" about how this works.  Why you might be interested is easy, because modern strong magnets for these cans (I think) all are thin and produce a "hole" for larger diameter arms.  If you just shim those in, the inside radius isn't ideal for smaller diameter arms...it will "work", but not well.

So, here I'm using a not very "desirable" Mura can

 

We only need the part where we want the magnet supported, and the can gets cleaned inside and out because the fit is tight...a good thing and a bad thing because, you *can* get the shim part of the way in and not be able to slide it "home".  You also need to clean the D can it's going into really well for the same reason, as well as flattening the magnet tabs and even grinding them flush on the inside.  Like I said, the fit is tight.  With this Mura, I lost the can welds, so I wound up with a "2-piece" shim.  No biggie, it's even more like the old "semi-can shims".  Here's the finished shim with the magnets installed, but I also ran the seam edges on some sandpaper to make sure the shim could fully close around the magnets.



Last, before "going for it", make sure to test fit the whole mess before slathering on epoxy.  It can help avoid some messy "OOPS!"

Interestingly, the same magnet and the same D can can produce measurably different results.  The geeky among us probably know why, but not all C cans are the same, even when they're being cut up this way to serve as a shim. Surprisingly, the RJR can seems to be among the best.  Anyway, if you like to tinker, this could be a thing.  If you run vintage motors (*I guess mostly in Europe?), this sort of solution might be allowed since it is no different from period products meant for the same purpose.
 

[havlicek]

...and here's one with the shim made from an RJR C can.  As has happened before, these seem to make for a slightly stronger end result for some reason.  Anyway, if the prep is done right, you should wind up with a hole that's the same as it would be with the original C can.  Here, the result is just over a .530" ID, about perfect for a .518" OD arm that has been just nipped when grinding to true it up...say to around .515"-516".  The motor will be good to go for anything from a #30 wind to...well..."watevah"! 

 

I forgot to add the photo!

[havlicek]

Okey dokey.  I got a nifty end bell (*it was sold as a Trinity...beats me if that's correct, because eBay isn't exactly known for solid seller info).  The only thing I'll do to it is trim the forward lead wire tab because it comes close to the can and could short if bent.  Other than that, it's a lovely fit and, unlike the ProSlot end bells, completely fills the can's open end, not having that notch at the bottom.

The can is dyed to help me locate mounting holes to the existing end bell holes (*I hate that part!)

[Bill from NH]

Yes, that  green endbell is a Trinity item from their 16D motors. It's a good endbell.that also came in several other colors. With those buss bars (solder tabs), it's their later version of hardware. In a flexi's anglewinder arrangement, the right tab wasn't prone to bending. For inline motors, I used the earlier Trinity hardware, which was similar to Parma's.

[jokar124]

As Bill indicated, the earlier version of the Trinity 16D first came with a purple endbell, followed later by the green version. 

A Super 16D was also available, first with a red endbell, and later a brown one.

[havlicek]

Thanks for the info Bill and Jo.