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Brabham-Ford 1/24 1967 Grand Prix chassis


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 02 March 2018 - 08:59 AM

My plan is to make a 1967 style brass rod chassis to custom fit the body.

Build it to fit a 16D Mabuchi type motor, then offer body and chassis for sale.

Owner would supply and assemble parts.

 

IMG_8651.JPG

 

Body has determined to be a Lancer #218, but I have no way of knowing if it's a repop or original.

The Russkit bracket, I can vouch for as genuine :yes3:

 

Wheelbase 3 7/8", guide lead 5/8".

1/8 axles, rear wheels 7/8" X 5/8", fronts 7/8" X 3/16", widths 3"

Clearance 1/16 level

Drop arm will be designed for a Cox quickchange


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Lone Wolf

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Posted 02 March 2018 - 10:05 AM

Pablo, the color of that body is fantastic.

 

Although this is not the prettiest car in my stable, perhaps you can garner some ideas here. This one uses a 26D.

 

Be happy to supply more pics if you so desire.

 

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#3 Pablo

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 07:56 PM

I've done this enough times, it's like riding a bike. No brag, just fact :D :crazy:

 

 

Jig wheels will be Russkit replica, Professor Motor part #'s R724 and R721.

You can see the beginnings of my rear axle tubing math -

with a pair of 1/16" plastic spacers, the empty space is 1.437".

Trivia FYI - bracket width of a genuine Russkit is .907" :wink2:

 

IMG_8663.JPG

 

Nubs were removed, as I've never found any use for them in a pro type chassis like this.

Bracket was given a rough polish to remove 45 years of pixie dust.

Axle tube holes enlarged with a Uni-Bit to 5/16", as I plan to use vintage oilites.

This bracket only needed very minor correction to make it perfectly square.

I left the drill ridges intact just like Mike Steube recommended in his retro video :)

 

IMG_8667.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#4 Don Weaver

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 08:08 PM

"Nubs were removed, as I've never found any use for them in a pro type chassis like this."

 

Only use I've ever found for the "nubs" is to tell if it's a genuine Russkit bracket.

 

Don


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 03 March 2018 - 10:39 PM

Good one, Don  :)

 

Inner 5/16" OD tubing piece was sized about 1.225" to allow for oilite widths plus "fudge factor".

Centered it up and minitorched it home with Koford Hi-Temp solder.

 

Math on the outer 7/32" OD tubes is critical - they will butt up against the outside of the bracket. Oilite lips are .03 each, X 2 = .06". 1.437" minus .06 = 1.377" tube width. 1.377" minus bracket width .907 = .470 / 2 = .235" tube extensions per side. It's easier to do the math than to explain it :big_boss:

The real trick is making perfect tube pieces to exacting tolerances using a drill, Dremel, sandpaper, and calipers  :umnik2:

 

IMG_8670.JPG
 


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Paul Wolcott

#6 slotcarone

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 08:31 AM

That looks like a vintage pre-painted body to me! :)


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#7 dc-65x

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 11:18 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

Looks like another fun project. :victory:

 

 

The real trick is making perfect tube pieces to exacting tolerances using a drill, Dremel, sandpaper, and calipers..........................

 

I have a small hobby lathe but I like making mine the same way with the drill - Dremel method. :dance3:


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 07:57 PM

Thanks, gentlemen :)  Here is the braced bracket with new Champion oilites.

 

IMG_8673.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#9 Pablo

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Posted 04 March 2018 - 10:13 PM

Centered and squared, ready for rails

 

IMG_8685.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#10 Pablo

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Posted 05 March 2018 - 04:07 PM

One thing I've never been 100% satisfied with on pro-era Grand Prix chassis like this is,

the wheels are mandated to make the clearance 1/16 with wheels touching,

but I've always wanted my fronts to be elevated slightly to act as stabilizers, not rollers.

 

In other words, once I get the flag spacing where I want it to allow for braid recess,

the wheels are touching the track more than I want. Just personal preference.

 

So this time I simply raised both jig wheels with pieces of 15 thou brass

 

IMG_8691.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#11 Pablo

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Posted 05 March 2018 - 09:13 PM

Rails and body mounts done

 

IMG_8695.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#12 dc-65x

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Posted 05 March 2018 - 10:19 PM

:good:   :popcorm1: 


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 09:08 PM

Drop arm hinge - nothing really special here.

Tube against the hinge does triple duty as hinge buttress, extra body mounts, and outrigger strengthener

 

IMG_8712.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#14 Horsepower

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Posted 07 March 2018 - 09:58 PM

Paul, that color IS beautiful! I believe it was AMT that put out a color rattle can called "Peacock metalflake" that looked just like that. Maybe Jairus would know for sure.


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 09:44 PM

Yes, it is nice paint, Gary :)

 

If this drop arm chunk doesn't keep the flag planted in the slot, nothing will :aggressive: :curtsey:

IMG_8715.JPG

 


Paul Wolcott

#16 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 12:29 AM

Drop arm mini-torched to hinge and tubing upstop added

 

IMG_8722.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#17 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 06:32 PM

Flag tube quality control

 

IMG_8725.JPG

 

IMG_8734.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#18 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 08:21 PM

My new method of raising the front wheels an additional 15 thou worked perfectly.

Mocking up the wheels/clearances/flag/braid to determine best flag limiter type and location proves it.

You can't tell from the photo so you'll just have to trust me  :D

 

IMG_8735.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#19 Pablo

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 10:17 AM

Out of the tumbler

 

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Paul Wolcott

#20 Pablo

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 10:19 AM

For sale in Swap Shop along with the Brabham-Ford body

 

IMG_8750.JPG

 

IMG_8751.JPG

 

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Paul Wolcott





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