7 replies to this topic

[Tim Wood]

What is the best way to install shunt wires on a hawk 6 Can and endbell. It's a Koford arm Modified M647. Thanks for any help

[Taylor Davis]

Brush shunts are not hard to install, just need a few tools.

First, you need something to widen the brush slot, (Where the spring usually sits) so the shunt fits nice. There are tools available to do this, but a small thin file can work too.

Next, install brush into motor, and install braided shunt into brush sleeve with a 90 degree bend the length of the brush and have excess shunt.(about an inch and a half or longer out the back of the motor) Finally, install insulated spring, and route the shunt wire around the bus bar, and solder.

* Note before you solder the shunt wire to the bus bar use a drop of oil on the shunt between the bar and brush to prevent solder from wicking too far down and making the shunt stiff.

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[jimht]

A tidy example compliments of PSCR.

[Taylor Davis]

Another example

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[havlicek]

I would just offer an *opinion* that, aside from high current draw motors, shunts may not be necessary.  They certainly wouldn't hurt if not needed, but if installed in such a way as to hang-up a brush, they could cause arcing at the com.

[jimht]

Generally speaking, Gp12 and faster motors get hot enough to detemper a spring, especially on punchbowls with wing cars and glue.

 

The shunt takes the current load/heat off the spring, acts as a brush heat sink/conductor and when done properly causes no ill effects.

 

The Koford motor the OP is dealing with will be more reliable with shunts.

[Rob Voska]

Teeny tiny fingers help.  I have 10 thumbs..... I have to use tweezers.

[Jason Holmes]

Tim bring it to the Raceway Sat I will show you at the Western States 

 

jason