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FSCS: What's working at P-1 Raceway


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#1 dalek

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:38 AM

Hey flexi racers,
 
I know the FSCS won't be at P-1 until May but when that time comes, in order to maybe help make the racing closer, I'm posting photos of the record-setting DTM car I ran this past Friday night.  
 
It obviously had a strong motor, but it also handled like the proverbial dream.
 
For the FSCS races, 
I'll change the motor and it will be my NASCAR.
Then with light-steel pans (8 grams lighter) it will be my LMP.
Then back to the H7 and it will be my GTP.
 
Will try soft wonder on the right side.  It worked well at the last P-1 FSCS races with the track really rubbered up.  I don't expect it to work at Melbourne next month b/c that track doesn't usually seem as stuck as P-1.
 
1-IMG_2375 - body copy.jpg
 
2-IMG_2381 - weight - fin.jpg
 
3-IMG_2294 - top view full copy.jpg
 
4-IMG_2273 copy copy.jpg

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#2 Half Fast

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 11:07 AM

Thanks for sharing your set up tips!
 
Cheers

Bill Botjer

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The most dangerous form of ignorance is not knowing that you don't know anything!

 

 

 
 

#3 NY Nick

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 11:55 AM

I like that body who makes it.

Thanks posting.


Nick Cerulli

#4 Marcus P1 Raceway

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 12:18 PM

ATTAN MERCEDES C-63
Marcus Ramos
 
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120 West Crown Pointe Rd, Suite 114
Winter Garden, FL 34787

#5 dalek

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 06:08 AM

A very good mask set comes with that body.  Besides windows, the set also includes masks for the taillights, headlights, and grill.


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#6 dalek

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Posted 05 April 2018 - 06:00 AM

I forgot to mention the spacers that eliminate pans sideplay.

 

I didn't test the car with and then without the spacers so I don't know if they make much of a difference. 

 

IMG_2330 - bitebar spacers copy.jpg


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#7 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 05 April 2018 - 07:06 AM

So to be clear, the 2 piece pan center will accept the single pan?
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. - Ronald Regan #40 (1911 - 2004)

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#8 dalek

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Posted 06 April 2018 - 10:21 AM

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe all Mossetti 2-piece and 1-piece pans will fit on the Defender 2-piece center and also the Striker 2-piece center.

 

The older 1-piece aluminum pans had a crosspiece that was too wide but the latest ones have a crosspiece that is reduced in width.

 

The difference in the weight of the pans is, light-weight steel is 8 grams less than the full-weight steel, and the aluminum is 6 grams less than the light-weight steel.

 

The 1-piece pans are easy to swap because the crosspiece is in the back rather than in the front.  All that is needed is a little bit of slack in the guide wires.  As you can see in the pictures, it doesn't require a whole lot of slack.


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#9 gatormark

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 05:19 AM

why minimal solder
Mark Conner

#10 DOCinCocoa

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 08:06 AM

Probably to reduce weight.
Doc Dougherty
GRRR 2016 GT Coupe and Stock Car Champion and Overall Champion
My Series Spring 2016 4" NASCAR, JK LMP State Champion, and Endurance State Champion
My Series 2015 4" NASCAR, GTP and Endurance State Champion
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1968 Cleveland Car Model Series race winner - Tom Thumb Raceway, North Royalton, Ohio
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#11 dalek

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 08:13 AM

why minimal solder

 

-- Reduces unnecessary weight

-- Faster motor change

-- Possibly allows the chassis to flex more, resulting in better handling

 

At the last FSCS races in Melbourne, I put my car in harms way and paid the price by getting nerfed in the high bank.  One of the chassis arms and the guide tongue got significantly bent but the motor didn't get knocked loose so it appears that more solder is not necessary.  

 

DZ is known for changing out motors during 2-minute lane changes.  If a motor is soldered all the way across the end, it takes a lot longer to get it out.  

With minimal solder, just melt the solder at the rear mount and flick the chassis to sling that solder out, then put the iron to the other solder point and the motor will drop out in less than 5 seconds.

 

It used to be that when I soldered a motor into a chassis, the motor stayed there until it was no good anymore.  But now, I don't hesitate to pull motors out during test & tune in order to try different gears or different motors since I've learned how to do it fairly fast.

 

Regarding handling, Biscuit told me that a chassis will flex and handle better if it's not soldered all the way across the end of the can.


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