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Going-in "oldschool"


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 11:23 AM

     So as not to forget about all those who still want these motors, I'm doing-up a Mabuchi FT16D, the can-drive version.  Someone recently gifted me this nice clean example (*thanks!), so I decided to get busy.  An interesting thing here is that it seems the black end bells are less likely to have "the crack", although sometimes the black color makes it harder to see the crack, even when it's there.  Maybe it's whatever they use to dye the end bell (carbon black???) that helps keep it softer or something.  So, here's the motor in it's original/NOS condition

IMG_2645.JPG

     Taking it apart, here's the not unfamiliar innards of this old girl.  After stripping the arm, tossing the tail spacer, com and fiber end caps, I did a quick "natural balance check", and marked the heavy pole so I could do some pre-balancing and remove a bit of metal.  The arm will get a Tradeship com, so I removed the molded-in com spacer from that, because it only makes winding more difficult.  I could then cut a pair of spacers to make the arm ready for powder coating

IMG_2646.JPG


     So like I said, I'm going pretty much old school with this build/wind.  I'll use the original stack, but I will powder coat it instead of reusing the fiber end spacers, because there's a limit to how far I'm wiling to go.  :D
 

IMG_2647.JPG


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#2 C. J. Bupgoo

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 03:02 PM

     Hmmmm...  55/29...??   :scratch_one-s_head: 

                           :rolleyes: 


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#3 havlicek

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 06:44 AM

     Hmmmm...  55/29...??   :scratch_one-s_head: 

                           :rolleyes: 

 

...somewhere in that range ;)


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#4 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 07:53 AM

I like the color on the can, but don't remember one that color. Do you know who sold it?


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#5 havlicek

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 09:13 AM

I like the color on the can, but don't remember one that color. Do you know who sold it?

 

Hi Eddie,

     I've seen this particular color on Mabuchi FT16D motors marketed by regular retailers...I think Radio Shack, hardware stores, places like that.  They come up from time to time, and often still in the original packaging, but like all FT16D Mabuchis, less and less frequently.  Super clean ones like this are getting to be like hen's teeth.


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#6 havlicek

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 10:54 AM

     All the work on the setup is done.  Even on a really clean example like this one, there's a fair amount of work involved in bringing the motor up to slot-car-snuff.  

- Inside of the can gets cleaned-out so the magnets will slide-in nice and smooth, sitting as accurately/well-centered as possible.
- A set of .007" steel shims made to close up the enormous stock "hole" in these things.  Normally, I'll use .004" shim stock because it will slide-in easily and not cause the magnets to sit a little off.  Here, I went for thicker shims and flattened out the bottom magnet tabs, so I'll use two magnet clips...one top and one bottom.  This makes for a better installation with the magnets well centered.  I'll also do a little extra fiddling with the thicker shims to get them bent as close to the can's inside radius as possible. 
- The can gets drilled for end bell mounting screws, end bell gets drilled to match.
- Hoods get soldered to the brush tubes, and the resulting "assemblies" sit in a puddle of CA glue
- Install a set of spring post sleeves
- Outside of the can gets a wipe with denatured alcohol to clean off old adhesive (I guess from a label?) and whatever grime my fingers put on there.  :)

Then I can put that all together and space the arm for the setup:

IMG_2648.JPG

All that makes for a nice clean setup.  With a starting motor this nice, the "look" wouldn't have been out of place hanging behind the counter of some nifty/dingey/smokey track back in the day:

IMG_2649.JPG


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#7 havlicek

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 11:04 AM

  For the arm, I did a bit warmer wind than the old 55/29...a 50/29.  Even so, with the thicker winding leg, crown and hub of the old Mabuchi lams, there still some "convincing" involved with getting it all in there.  The arm measures dead-nuts perfect from pole to pole.  Resistance is a bit higher than the typical 50/29, but the stack is on the long side compared to today's G12, at about .485" uncoated length, and each turn is going to be a little longer as well because of the lams.  Still, 55/29 on these arms is a fast arm, so 50/29 should be pretty thrilling.  :D  Yes, people wound these a lot hotter back then sometimes, but I just don't see the point when it's up to me, and here it WAS up to me!

IMG_2650.JPG

Mocked-up with the new arm just to be sure everything works!

IMG_2651.JPG

This arm is a little warmer than I feel comfortable balancing, so for maximum "smoothiness", "spinniness", and minimum warmth (longer life!), it goes out for dynamic balancing.


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#8 Geary Carrier

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 11:23 AM

The Delrin gods should be on your side...

 

Pretty fine example of a period piece.


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#9 Jairus

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 11:34 AM

Would be fun to keep the paint but airbrush some black fades on the longitudinal folds.

Nice project John!


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#10 NJ Racer

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 07:58 PM

I like the color on the can, but don't remember one that color. Do you know who sold it?

 

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