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The Hawk... it's pretty much ready to go


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 02:45 PM

     I recently got a few of these setups, and wanted to do one justice.  First off, there's really not much at all that "needs" to be done to get things ready for a big upgrade in performance.

IMG_2678.JPG

     While both the Hawk and the Pro Slot represent a great value, I'd give the definite edge to the Hawk.  The Hawk end bell for one is taller, and allows for using a longer com.  That's a good thing, especially with a higher-performance arm.  Then too, there's more interior room for a wider com on the Hawk.  While the Chinese coms are only around .17"-ish diameter, and the Pro Slot "Puppy Dog" coms are around .19"-ish, the Hawk end bell hardware unmodified has around .23" of space between the hoods and plates (*as opposed to the approximately .200" provided by the Pro Slot).  That means, that without any additional clearancing, the Hawk end bell can fit a full size .210" or so com.  The thing is just begging for a wider com.  In fact, the space between the hoods is a little "too generous" for the stock Chinese com. Really, the only thing I think *needs* to be done to get ready for a higher performing arm is to do something to make sure the end bell bushing doesn't loosen and spin.  I mean, sure, you *could* install a bearing or two and even some shunts, but ...it's your world and you can do that if you feel the need.  There's nothing wrong with nice tight bushings.  Anyway, I removed the stock bushing, cleaned-out any oil, drilled the end bell and "keyed" the bushing to keep it solid with some epoxy when reinstalling.  The whole shebang takes around 5 minutes when you get used to it, but it's definitely something to do IMO.  In the first picture, you can see the itty bitty holes and some epoxy that seeped out.  In the second picture, you can see a bit of the epoxy around the rim of the bushing

IMG_2679.JPG IMG_2680.JPG

     Really, that's about all, although many would do more!  So, I wound an "H12" (50/29) on a .350" long stack.  At that stack length and with the JK end bell, I can use a full-length com and still have good room between the top of the coils and the bottom of the com tabs for welding.

IMG_2683.JPG

  This arm is serious medicine for this motor, and should make for a thrilling ride.  Stick it in the setup, it almost looks like it belongs there!

IMG_2684.JPG
 


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John Havlicek




#2 Geary Carrier

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 02:47 PM

Of course it belongs in there...


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#3 olescratch

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 03:17 PM

Another fine start!  What's the aprox. timing on this arm?


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John Stewart

#4 C. J. Bupgoo

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 03:38 PM

John;

 

     If this arm is "serious medicine", what, exactly, does that make the 38/27 Hawk you wound for me...??   :scratch_one-s_head:       :wacko:  :blink:  :huh:      :sarcastic: 

 

     (Purely a rhetorical query   :wink3: )


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Michael G. Sutlick
 
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#5 olescratch

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 03:46 PM

John;

 

     If this arm is "serious medicine", what, exactly, does that make the 38/27 Hawk you wound for me...??   :scratch_one-s_head:       :wacko:  :blink:  :huh:      :sarcastic: 

Have you installed it in anything yet?  If so, tell us how it handled, and what you called it!!


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John Stewart

#6 havlicek

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 04:23 PM

Another fine start!  What's the aprox. timing on this arm?

 

...around 15+ degrees advance.

 

 

John;

 

     If this arm is "serious medicine", what, exactly, does that make the 38/27 Hawk you wound for me...??   :scratch_one-s_head:       :wacko:  :blink:  :huh:      :sarcastic: 

 

     (Purely a rhetorical query   :wink3: )

Well, the not-purely-rhetorical-answer is...basically an open arm in a $15 motor  :D


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John Havlicek

#7 C. J. Bupgoo

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 04:25 PM

Have you installed it in anything yet?  If so, tell us how it handled, and what you called it!!

     

John;

 

     No permanent "nesting" for this particular motor, yet...  But just for grins  :mosking:  , I installed it in a V.W. bug-bodied womp (Champion 401 Thumper / Legends)  :spiteful:   ... 

How did it handle...?? :   :crazy:  ...  What did I call it...?? ...   :on_the_quiet2:   "Highly-strung"   :heat:  


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Michael G. Sutlick
 
"A man can never possess too many small, electric motors.
 
                                                                          Buford T. Tesla, (c. 1927)

#8 Mr. M

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 04:50 PM

I use JB slow cure on the end bell bearing and have never had one come loose. The mounting surface on the end bell and bearing is lightly roughed up with a square flat end file. The outside rim of the end bell pocket and flat face of same are coated with epoxy using a flat face toothpick so that anything the bearing touches is bonded. The outside edge of all the bonding surfaces of the oilite is coated with epoxy with the same toothpick. I clean everything with acetone. By the way, throw away the JK bearing and replace with your choice.
Chris McCarty

#9 havlicek

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Posted 08 April 2018 - 07:10 PM

I do something different.


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John Havlicek

#10 Slot-Racer

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 01:08 PM

Hi John,

 

Since you don't race, you have no rules that you would need to abide by. So with that said, have you ever tried to join the brush hoods (top and bottom) with conductive paste for better conductivity or solder them? 

 

Thanks.

 

P.S. I do enjoy your posts and attention to detail.  :)


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Mario Damis

#11 havlicek

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 07:37 PM

Hi Mario,

 

      Sure, I've soldered them and really only got the idea because of soldering the Mabuchi hoods to the brush tubes.  I saw no difference on even much faster motor than the Mabuchis, but like you said, I don't race...so maybe someone who does noticed a difference???  Then again, if a motor might be "starved for current", shunts should take care of that...I think.


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John Havlicek

#12 Slot-Racer

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 09:55 AM

Hi John,

 

Ok. I was only asking as I got a Mura motor that was all copper hoods and found that the top and bottom was soldered and was wondering if it really made any difference.


Mario Damis

#13 Jaeger Team

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 11:41 AM

I race(d). In the very old days I thought soldering mabuchi’s tube/hood a little bit diagonally I got a wider brush surface.

Since then always soldered brush hoods and whatever, I feel confident the stay “there” in a crash and even the current flow is stable. My two cents.


Maurizio Salerno

#14 Jaeger Team

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 11:52 AM

Of course agree with John about shunts.


Maurizio Salerno





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