Jump to content




Photo

Tim Hendricks IRRA® Can-Am


  • Please log in to reply
47 replies to this topic

#1 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 15 April 2018 - 06:51 PM

Tim asked me to build him an IRRA® legal retro Can Am car.

I told him, you can't go wrong with a JKD3X25R chassis kit.

It will be a competitive car anywhere in the country.

 

Parts gathering is done.

JK wheels, Hawk Retro motor, 2mm screws, and body clips.

Koford axle, flag spacers, and drilled aluminum nut.

Parma Blade flag and 28T 48P crown gear

Prime Braid

TQ lead wire and flag clips

Slick 7 Racing Bushings

ARP 9T 48P angled steel pinion

WalMart earring keeper

 

IMG_9176.JPG


  • Jencar17, miko, Danny Zona and 3 others like this
Paul Wolcott




#2 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,404 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 16 April 2018 - 06:30 AM

Who is Tim Hendricks? Any relation to Rick Hendricks?  Where & what type of tracks does he plan to run on? I assume he's planning on painting his own TI-22 body. :)


Bill Fernald
 

"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."


#3 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 April 2018 - 08:03 AM

He's related to John Clow by marriage. Both he and his brother Chuck are regulars at "Charlie's Garage" Raceway in Jackson, MS, and "The Dungeon".


Paul Wolcott

#4 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,404 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 16 April 2018 - 09:04 AM

Thanks for the info. Does "Charlie's Garage" have any plans for retro racing, or will this car be used on the road? I know there are plenty of body painters at Billy's, but does Tim like to paint his own? I'll sit back now & enjoy the build. :)


Bill Fernald
 

"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."


#5 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:52 AM

You'd have to ask the owner


Paul Wolcott

#6 Tim Hendricks

Tim Hendricks

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Joined: 30-March 17
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crystal Springs, MS

Posted 16 April 2018 - 02:51 PM

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the question.  Charilie's runs one specific car with three different bodies applied.  They are all the same car.  There is no Retro racing at Charlies Garage and there probably never will be.  This car will be for me to travel with.  If I am happy with this there may be other class retro cars to follow.  I have to get my feet wet first.  Probably the first track this car will be raced on is Talladega. After that I may try Marietta depending on what happens at that track this year.  I would not rule out a trip somewhere in Tennessee.

 

I have seen Pablo's work before and am really looking forward to owning a car he built.


  • olescratch likes this

#7 Tim Hendricks

Tim Hendricks

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Joined: 30-March 17
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crystal Springs, MS

Posted 16 April 2018 - 02:52 PM

Bill, in response to your other question.  I am not a great....not even a good painter, but I will be painting my own cars.  


  • MSwiss likes this

#8 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,404 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 16 April 2018 - 03:14 PM

Tim, welcome to Slotblog. Thank you for the answers. Nice meeting you here & have fun with your slot car racing. If my questions sound like those of a nosey old man, they are. :laugh2: I've never met Pablo, but we've been communicating via slot car boards for some 12-15 years. Sometime ask him about the "Pablo connector." :)


Bill Fernald
 

"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."


#9 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 April 2018 - 04:38 PM

For veteran builders, nothing special to see here, my flag procedures are pretty standard.

Parma standard deck thickness "The Blade" flag, blueprinted with surfacing tools, shaft cut and threaded with a combination of Magnehone and Cahoza threader, coined tongue, tongue doubler, and Koford nut surfaces all trued. Charlie Mc. trick of rounding nut corners to make edges softer where the lead wires contact it.

 

I've never had a wire break that way, but it's a neat trick and costs nothing :)

One Koford spacer goes under, and one under - a John Clow trick to adjust ride height without having to return to your pits to add a spacer - take off the top one and move it under :sun_bespectacled: Just making sure Tim is paying attention :D

 

IMG_9179.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#10 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 April 2018 - 07:37 PM

Sharpie marks on the front chunk show me where to tin for the doubler.

Tilt angle on the coined .032 JK brass piece was perfect right out of the bag.

It didn't need any tweaking, other than simply swiping the edges with a fine file

 

IMG_9182.JPG

 

Used a piece of 1/16 rod to Sharpie mark the cutoff point of the un-needed pan uprights

 

IMG_9184.JPG

 

Didn't take more than a couple minutes of tweaking to make the pans perfectly flat

 

IMG_9185.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#11 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 April 2018 - 08:12 PM

Motor bracket and rear section were also almost perfect right out of the bag.

A couple swipes with a file on the edges, a couple minor tweaks, some sanding, and it all passes muster.

Makes my job easy, thanks JK :good:

 

IMG_9188.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#12 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 03:45 PM

Tim is a clip guy so I did the usual "racing tweak" to the front bends, sharpened all 4 points, then tested.

 

Axle tube trimmed true at 1.337" length, allowing the Slick 7 bushings, two Slick 7 steel spacers per side to allow a needle oiler entry, plus a slight fudge factor.

 

I don't know if Tim is familiar with Slick 7 racing bushings, but DO NOT forget to oil them like I did once.

The car WILL STOP after a few laps :yes3: :dash2:

 

IMG_9189.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#13 SlotStox#53

SlotStox#53

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,025 posts
  • Joined: 13-March 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX

Posted 17 April 2018 - 03:52 PM

Are those the copper bushings that are fine on tolerance? Ultra smooth action although haven't raced with them yet.

#14 Don Weaver

Don Weaver

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,336 posts
  • Joined: 26-October 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Lexington. SC

Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:19 PM

​IIRC, isn't there a particular oil you need to use with Slick 7 bushings?


Don Weaver

​A slot car racer who never grew up!

 

The supply of government exceeds demand.
L.H. Lapham
 
If the brain-eating amoeba invades Washington
it will starve to death...


#15 bluecars

bluecars

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,099 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:25 PM

I have had extremely good results with Get Some 1000.


  • CoastalAngler1 likes this

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#16 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:27 PM

Fine tolerance, yes. Copper, no. "Special alloy" is what the card says.

 

Do you need to use a special oil? Slick 7 recommends Glidex.

There are those who say they must be lubed with synthetic oils, and I disagree.

My opinion is, any and all quality slot car lubricants will work just fine.

 

Just don't forget to use some :) No, they don't require constand lubrication. I lube mine before use and every 3 heats or so.

 

For an enduro race, I'd go with oilites; they are more tolerant of infrequent lubrication and slight misalignments


Paul Wolcott

#17 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 05:27 PM

A "Bill Trick" - score the cut point on the tube with a tubing cutter.

Just enough to show you where to cut it true later on :)

 

IMG_9190.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#18 Tim Hendricks

Tim Hendricks

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Joined: 30-March 17
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crystal Springs, MS

Posted 17 April 2018 - 05:36 PM

Thanks for the reminder about the oiling.  I usually oil my oilites at LEAST every other rotation.  Usually I oil them every rotation.  I do have synthetic oil and I believe I have some glidex.  I love that Pablo is documenting this.  I had never machined my flags before.  I am going to ask for some in depth explanation when I see him in May at Dungeon.  I ordered some of the slick 7 oilites for a Mosetti build I am about to do so I need to pay attention to what he is doing with this car.  lol



#19 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 05:53 PM

Let's clear up this confusion right now. Oilites are for low maintenance cars.

They automatically provide some lubrication, but added lube doesn't hurt at all.

That's why they are the best choice for rental cars, and enduro races.

Oilites work fine for racing but they will wear much faster than race bushings like the Slick 7's.

 

Racing bushings, like the Slick 7's, are of a much tighter tolerances and different materials. They require lubrication.

Precise installation alignment is more critical than oilites.

 

The bushings I'm using on your race car are not oilites. Hope that clears it up.


Paul Wolcott

#20 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 07:14 PM

Quick tinning party - 3/32 front axle, a pair of .063 main rails, and some .063 for the misc.

 

IMG_9193.JPG


  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#21 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:03 PM

Tinning party continues - I think .063 is overkill in certain parts of this kit build, so I tinned some .047 and .055

 

IMG_9194.JPG


  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#22 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:21 PM

I used to say "We don't need no stinkin' retro kits". But look at me now, I'm as happy as ever  :thank_you2:

 

IMG_9196.JPG

 


  • Jencar17, Samiam and bluecars like this
Paul Wolcott

#23 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,404 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 17 April 2018 - 09:17 PM

A couple pieces of slot car trivia:

 

1.) The "Bill Trick" was learned  from Dave Larsen.

 

2.) The "Special alloy" used for Slick 7 bushings is one of the bearing bronzes. I used to lubricate them (Slick 7 bushings) with Champion synthetic oil. I've seen them freeze up when GLIDEX or Glidex II was used. The GLIDEX products do work good for lubricating motor bushings (oilites).


Bill Fernald
 

"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."


#24 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 18 April 2018 - 03:10 PM

Jigged up. 4" WB, GL 15/16"

 

IMG_9198.JPG

 

Tim, note the scratch marking the centerline at the rear. That will come into play later

 

IMG_9199.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott

#25 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,667 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 18 April 2018 - 03:27 PM

Elephant ears/bracket brace centered via 2 pins and the notch at the rear

 

IMG_9204.JPG

 

Here's a time saver tip, but it only works for these bushings, on this chassis, with these wheels, etc.

If you position the outer edge of the bushing flush with the elephant ears, it is centered in the bracket

 

IMG_9203.JPG


  • Jencar17 and Tim Hendricks like this
Paul Wolcott





Electric Dreams Online Shop