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Tim Hendricks IRRA® Can-Am


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#26 Tim Hendricks

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 05:37 PM

As I watch Pablo building my car and I am looking at my new Mossetti Patriot Striker 3 I am about to build I realize how little I know about building slot cars.  Even though I have built and raced a bunch over the years.  I have never gone into the detail I am seeing here.  I always just made sure the pans were flat and mounted "oilites" so they were as free as possible then set my ride height.  I have always just built using test blocks.  My new Mossetti will be the first one I have built using a jig plate.  It will be interesting to see if I improve any in building with the things I see Paul doing.






#27 Pablo

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 05:44 PM

Tongue doubler assembly - both sides tinned

 

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Aligned, bathed in acid, and alligator clipped. When the solder melts it makes a perfect sandwich.

Aluminum piece keeps the holes aligned and won't solder.

The perfect tool for this is a Radio Shack Mini-Torch

 

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Yes, Bunky, I used a Dremel wheel to remove stray solder.

Yes, it came out perfect, and yes, I re-faced both rotating surfaces  :)

 

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Paul Wolcott

#28 Pablo

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 06:10 PM

3/32 front axle wheel keepers vary in length from brand to brand and batch to batch.

I de-flash, mike and match, and face all rotating surfaces with a Magnehone tool

 

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#29 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 03:49 PM

Single .063 rails. Once the setpoints for clearance, WB, GL, etc. have been set,

the flag screw can be loosened and the jig wheels removed, allowing the chassis to "relax".

 

Then checked on a flat block for flatness, or lack thereof :D

 

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Now she's ready for pan control.


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 07:18 PM

This kit allows a lot of pan movement, which is good. Easy to tighten up with filament tape.

But I don't recall John Clow's sistership chassis having this much horizontal pan slop up front.

So, I added pieces of .038 wire to the pans where they contact the uprights. Much better

 

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Adding strength in that area doesn't hurt, either :yes3:

 


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 10:59 PM

Pan management on this kit is dead simple - align the wire bits and solder them.

But the parts have to be well placed when you do it :D

 

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Front axle placement - easy. Mark the center, buttress the upright connection using keepers, then solder an elongated tinned length of 3/32 wire using jig wheels to the uprights

 

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Using your retro tool with the centerpoint marked, position front wheels at correct width with keepers in place

 

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#32 Pablo

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 04:39 PM

Moment of Truth: cutting the tubes and setting the bushings.

Bunky, hand me a brand new Dremel® 409 cutting wafer and my gage pin.

 

If you don't own a gage pin with a slightly larger OD than a 3/32 axle (mine was gifted by Cheater)

just mike your axles and find the fattest one. You can also feel it by placing the bushing on and feeling the amount of wobble. If you have no live skin left on your index finger, use ring finger and thumb  :) and stop soldering for a couple days  :laugh2:

 

Screw this part up and it's painful. Get it right and she'll be tumbling before sunset :dance3:

 

IMG_9249.JPG


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#33 Richard G With

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 05:28 PM

Love the "Retro" Weller soldering gun!
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We must all do what we must do, for if we do not, then what we must do does not get done.  Chung Mee

      Parkes, W. (Producer) & Meyer, N. (Director). (1985). Volunteers.[Motion picture]. United States: HBO.

 


#34 Pablo

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 06:58 PM

I trimmed the right side tube a little more to make plenty of room for the crown.

Slick 7 bushings soldered home and she passes the "axle falls through under it's own weight" test nicely :)

 

Notes for Tim, she clears about .058 rear with .828" OD wheels, and about 15 thou up front with .760" OD wheels.

Once she comes out of the tumbler, I'll apply a coat of clear nail polish to the fronts to augment it just a hair

 

IMG_9252.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 08:27 PM

I like to minimize acid time on the motor, so I trim, scratch and tin the shaft, install the pinion, tin the terminals, wash it with liquid soap and baking soda to neutralize the acid, then do my water break in. Did the clips while I was at it.

 

Break in was immersion in Mississippi tap water at 3v for 30 seconds. Then I dryed it on my Hakko iron holder

 

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#36 Tim Hendricks

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 06:39 AM

I just want everyone to know, I am starting to get excited about my new car at this point.  Getting really eager!!!  Patience is a virtue and I want a quality build, so I told Pablo there was no rush on this build.  However, I will be glad to get this car home so I can paint up a body and try it out.  The build is looking really good so far.



#37 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 08:53 AM

Nothing is ever rushed here at The Wolcott Ranch and Petting Zoo.

 

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Chassis out of the tumbler.

 

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Now the fronts get nail polish, and assembly begins after my mid-day "retirement" nap.  :laugh2:


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#38 JK Products

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 09:28 AM

I know it was built to race but I would be so paranoid about crashing such a beautiful work of art. Belíssima!


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 04:42 PM

Thanks Tim Homola :D  The owner knows if he breaks it, I'll fix it. If you aren't tearing stuff up, you're not racing  :aggressive:

 

Some guys like 2-56 screws to attach these motors. They know it's the "wrong" screw, but the mismatched thread gives a slight extra "grab" that the "correct" 2mm screw doesn't provide. I respect that, but I prefer the 2mm screw myself, with a microdot of Loctite® 271. Snugged down with the proper JK tool, which is a 5 sided .060" allen type. Simply personal preference. The only reason I mention it is a "heads up" to the owner.

 

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Lead wires are routed to give a very soft self-return. Again, my preference. One spacer above the flag, one below. 2 coats of nail polish on the fronts to extend life and increase clearance. Pablo race cars do not fail tech inspections. Ever. Except for my giant brain fart at R4/11 where my F1 loaner had RETRO® fronts :sorry:

 

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The use of a hollow, short crown gear screw makes the Parma perfectly balanced.

Tim, remember I said the notch would come into play later? Here are the notches lined up.

The Koford rear axle ends exactly at the outsides of the wheel hubs, no more, no less.

No excess rotating mass. Wheels are perfectly centered left/right.

 

IMG_9271.JPG

 

She passes the drivetrain test fine. My job here is done :thank_you2:


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#40 Taylor Davis

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 05:09 PM

Your f1 failed at the R4! Haha, only picking.

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#41 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 05:32 PM

Good catch, Taylor, I'm glad somebody is paying attention :D  :good:

I stand corrected; my F1 had totally illegal front wheels at R4  :wub:

 

Interestingly enough, Tim called me a couple days ago to ask about the legality differences between RETRO® and IRRA® F1 chassis. I said, "The most important thing is, do not forget to change back from RETRO® narrow fronts to the wider IRRA® fronts when you loan a car to a buddy to race IRRA®".

 

Incredibly, nobody noticed until a line formed at tech and Cap Henry whispered to Cheater "You got the wrong front wheels" :laugh2:


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#42 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 05:36 PM

Those 2mm motor mounting screws need to be 3mm long. If you buy longer, they can be shortened to 3mm using a Dremel & a carbide cut-off disk. Blue Loctite will also work. On my wire-rim eyeglasses, I use clear nail polish to keep screws from loosening.


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#43 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 05:50 PM

On my wire-rim eyeglasses, I use clear nail polish to keep screws from loosening.

You are the man, Bill, that's a good tip :good:


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#44 Tim Hendricks

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 11:50 PM

The car looks great Pablo.  I will be in touch with you about picking it up.  It will probably be Friday or Saturday depending upon your schedule.  If we need to pospone it until next week we can do that.  We can work that out on the phone.



#45 Richard G With

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 09:48 AM

I use the wide tires on my RETRO F1 cars. Hate the look of the narrow tires.
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We must all do what we must do, for if we do not, then what we must do does not get done.  Chung Mee

      Parkes, W. (Producer) & Meyer, N. (Director). (1985). Volunteers.[Motion picture]. United States: HBO.

 


#46 Richard G With

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 10:47 AM

Pablo: 5-sided "Allen" tool?

My antique eyes have missed that.

Maybe that's why I always solder my motors in addition to the screws!


We must all do what we must do, for if we do not, then what we must do does not get done.  Chung Mee

      Parkes, W. (Producer) & Meyer, N. (Director). (1985). Volunteers.[Motion picture]. United States: HBO.

 


#47 Pablo

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 11:03 AM

https://www.shoppscr...-screws-jk80423


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#48 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 April 2018 - 09:01 PM

I bought M2 screws with a phillips head. Then I wouldn't have to be worried whether or not I had a allen wrench that might or might not fit. :laugh2:


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?






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