BRM modifications/suggestions
#1
Posted 11 May 2018 - 10:11 PM
I plan to run the car on a commercial wooden track and am looking for some performance upgrade suggestions.
I know there are other 1/24 combinations that could go faster, corner better, etc.
My objective is to build a quicker than stock car that corners well and can hold its own with other likeable cars.
I would also like to know it their are advantages/disadvantages between an inline motor configuration vs. an anglewinder motor configuration.
Any/all suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
Posted 11 May 2018 - 11:07 PM
General observations on all 'hardbody' slot cars - not specific to any brand:
1) The hardbody is heavier and that mass needs to be offset by extra mass below the axle to lower the Center of Gravity. This most commonly done by adding lead or brass on the chassis either inside or on the bottom. The bare car may weigh under 75 grams and a good racing weight might exceed twice that.
2) Lower power or RPM cars (sub 30K) cars are less affected by the inline versus anglewinder issues. Torque steer is always an effect of inline cars, but 1/24 cars are not affected as drasticly as smaller cars with the same size motors. Full sidewinder motors will have virtually NO torque steer effect.
3) Heavier cars need harder tires, but every track varies with traction compounds.
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#3
Posted 11 May 2018 - 11:31 PM
General observation: Speed cost's money, how fast do you want to go? How often do you want to rebuild or replace the motor and are you willing to solder it in or just want to screw it in? You might want to enquire with Dennis Samson if you are looking for a scratch built chassis or a complete ready to run chassis. His cars run as good as they look. TSRF(TSR?) chassis are available ready to adapt to your body and are considerably better than the stock plastic critters they come with. Changing the guide flag and tires on that set up will be faster than some other hard body's.
Mike Boemker
#4
Posted 12 May 2018 - 08:21 AM
Loosen up that body!
- Ramcatlarry likes this
Matt Bishop
#5
Posted 12 May 2018 - 10:25 AM
When PdL introduced the TSRF line , I asked when will the brass pan option be added to run them with no magnet. The TSR D3 motor works fine in them (40K).
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#6
Posted 12 May 2018 - 05:27 PM
The BRM Porsche 962 cars come with a plastic chassis. You will need to add weight. We raced them at around 200 grams for the 962. I would use BRM's foam tires on a wood track. I prefer the anglewinder chassis. It has fewer gear issues and allows you to lower the ride height of the chassis.
- Tex likes this
2/23/56-4/10/22
Requiescat in Pace
#7
Posted 12 May 2018 - 07:22 PM
i agree with Chris. I have raced these cars for many years on commercial and plastic tracks. On a commercial track use the BRM foam rubber rears, use their weight kits, and the anglewinder chassis is better than the inline. The black racing motor will give you more speed too. If you can locate one, the BRM wood track guide is better than the one in the kit, and use spacers to lower it into the track slot properly. If you get an older kit with a screw on body, adapt to the later o-ring snap on body to chassis set up. The BRM cars are great to race together.
- Tex likes this
Glenn Orban
NJ Vintage Racing
NJ Scale Racing
C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club