9 replies to this topic

[Andrew863]

As the title said just looking for what you have found best to break in a Mini Brute. Been running Hawk 25s but want to give the Bini brute a try in our Womp class. I use the Simple Green method for the 25 but not sure if that is the way to go with the MB. 

[DOCinCanton]

The same break-in procedure that you use on the Hawk 25, that you are satisfied with, should also work on the Mini Brute.

 

For me, since the brushes of all of the recent Hawk type motors are very hard, I run the Hawk motors in water at 3.5 volts for 2 to 3 hours, or until the comm has a full wipe on it. 

[gc4895]

Wow.  3.5 volts for 2 to 3 hours.  I break my mini-brutes in using water, 3 volts for 90 seconds.  I'm not even in the same zip code.

 

Mark

[Bill from NH]

Mark, you got better water than Florida?

[JimF]

I'm with Mark on this one. I do water at 4V for 20 sec then clean and dry, then 3V dry for about 45-60 min. I stop about halfway through to cool down, inspect and re-oil. This is a waaaaay different motor than a H25 as far as performance goes. If it fits your track and classes, I think the MB is a fantastic motor.

 

I'm maybe a little less enamored of the Simple Green process than I might have been about five-six months ago.

[gc4895]

As does Jim, I follow my 90 second wet with 25-40 minutes of dry - try to check 'em and touch up the oil about half way. I have no experience with the slower JK 25,000 RPM motors. We have turned a lot of competitive laps with very consistent performance delivery from these Mini Brutes. 

[Andrew863]

What is the reason for not wanting to use simple green any more? Does the MB have the same hard brush that the h25 uses? Without simple green and trying to break in a h25 dry it has taken up to 10 hrs to make the com wipe all the way across. That's when I done some research and went to wet. With water alone I was at 2 hrs or so. Haven't tried a MB yet. Just got 3 in today.

[bbr]

one issue with simple green is that it leaves comm material deposits in the comm slots...some arcing happens later on when running at high voltage... small fire 

[Ramcatlarry]

Actually, I believe it is a chemical reaction by the ARCING plasma and the carbon chemicals in the simple green compound. An electrolysis reaction of sorts. The higher the voltage used, the easier the plating action of the carbon molecules on the copper commutator. Lower voltage and cleaner water should avoid the plating effect.  Even some hard, high mineral content in the water could react badly.  I am back to distilled water whenever I exceed 6 volts for break-in.

[Fast Freddie]

Maybe you might want to take a wooden toothpick to clean out the comm. slots after a Simple Green break-in.  As for me I found Simple Green is the quickest and cleanest way to do a brake-in when the brushes are so hard, but to each his own.