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Testing controllers at home


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#1 Lone Wolf

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 02:24 PM

I have a sizable lump of controllers, mostly at least 20 years old. Is there any way I can test these at home?

 

I have a section of track I could use if needed. Some have roach clips and some have phone plugs but I have female phone plug jacks.

 

Also, I believe some of the older controllers like MRC hook up backwards. Is this true,and if so what others do?

 

Thanks in advance.


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#2 Racer36

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 02:47 PM

I haven't heard the term roach clips in some time.

aaahhhhh….the good old days......lol


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#3 bluecars

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 02:48 PM

Cox hooked up backwards. If there is any doubt just hook up black and white first with power on and touch red (brake) to break post and if it sparks change black and white and try again.


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#4 bluecars

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 02:49 PM

That says something about some of us. LOL!!! :wacko2:


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 06:13 PM

Red is an outstanding slot car and controller diagnostician, I vouch for him :good:


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#6 drrufo

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 08:42 PM

I have a hook up for my controllers that allows me to clip the leads to studs. My power supply has leads that go to the box and the leads from the hook ups go to the motor. If you would like I can post pictures of the set up.

 

John Andersen


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#7 tazman

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 04:59 AM

Please post pics of your controller setup.


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#8 SlowBeas

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 04:02 PM

Also, please post pictures of roach clips.  :laugh2:


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Jim Beasley
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#9 drrufo

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 10:53 AM

 

This is what I used to wire the controller to the power.

 

IMG_0730.JPG IMG_0734.JPG


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#10 drrufo

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 10:58 AM


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#11 drrufo

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 11:01 AM

132and124StandardWiring.jpg sorry double post


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#12 drrufo

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 11:06 AM

I have other photos, but they are too big to down load. The photos and diagram should give you an idea of what I did. The blue cases are boxes for the wall plug. Cheap and easy to drill and attch to the wood base.

 

Hope this helps.

 

John Andersen


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#13 jtipps

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 11:15 AM

Get a piece of wood and install the 3 track "posts" on them, label them accordingly, and testing controllers is a lot easier. Just follow the wiring diagram above.


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#14 Klenkes

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 02:39 PM

This is how we do it in our club. A very-low-cost test bench. The idea was born when I tested my controller using a lot of wire, voltmeter, slotcar, power supply on my desk. It was a mess allover. So I put everything in a cardboard box. The halogene bulb is acting as the electric load. 

 

The harder you push (the trigger), the brighter the lamp gets. The two small voltage indicators show the input (in this case 11.4 V) and output (11.2 V). The Professor Motor controller is loosing 0.2 V in the "full throttel" position.

 

außen.jpg  innen.jpg


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#15 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 10:51 PM

I had the opportunity to use a two foot piece of my (old) dragstrip creatively.  I made it into a test strip with one lane powered on a rheostat for scuffing tires and running-in drive trains and the other lane for a controller test with full R/B/W hookups and a car in the lane with the rear wheels off the ground to observe braking actions.  I wired it (+) right/gate per the  posted schematic above.


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#16 mreibman

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 12:55 PM

I have a homemade (rough looking) setup based on DRRUFO's diagram (and similar) above.

 

Power supply to posts on board w/fuse soldered in

Controller legs (red, black, white) to posts on board

Red/black wires to test block

Meter installed on board.

 

I will post picture tonight. Just put on your peril sensitive sunglasses first. And for Klenkes, who made this in a cardboard box, I say, "Damn, why didn't I think of that?"


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#17 drrufo

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 01:32 PM

Cardboard is a good insulator. But use what ever  you are used to.I  like the plastic electrical box. 

 

John Andersen


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#18 Klenkes

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 05:48 PM

I didn't use the cardboard box for any special purpose. It was simply "there". If a plastic box would have been right beside my workplace, I would have used it also. Nothing is lasting longer than a good temporarily solution. So we are still using the cardboad box, although a plastic box of course looks much more professional. 


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#19 mreibman

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Posted 26 July 2018 - 11:31 AM

Assuming I can figure out how to get the picture in this post:

"Slot car controller tester"

20180725_185556.jpg 20180725_185603.jpg 20180725_185606.jpg

 

Been having some issues with "hemi" wound armatures that run backwards, so the blade connectors let me reverse the track power.

 

Typically, I leave my power supply in the neighborhood of 3.5 volts for testing. It was really interesting to see how a relay gave lower voltage when on vs. a controller without a relay.


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Mike Reibman
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More powerful than a 36D.
 
 

#20 drrufo

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 11:53 AM

It is nice to see other people have glue guns as friends. They are a quick way to set parts where you want for odd projects.

 

John Andersen


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#21 MG Brown

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 01:14 PM

John: I agree that the hot glue gun is a very useful tool to have on your workbench. I find if I have one handy, I tend to find more and more uses for it.


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That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten.
 
 

 


#22 Half Fast

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 01:16 PM

John:

 

Will your test wiring work with transistor controllers?

 

Thanks in advance


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#23 mreibman

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 04:12 PM

Half fast:
I have used mine with difalco controllers, Parma turbo and Sebring, koford external resistor, and diode controllers like my Henry. It works with all. Basically, you're simulating the setup that's at the track.

With the diode controllers you may have to crank your power supply up a bit higher, maybe 5-6 volts. But because you're doing nothing out of the ordinary, you should be fine.
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Mike Reibman
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Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
 
 

#24 drrufo

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 11:57 AM

My test rig is used to test newly built Ruddock cont4rollers and any that I repair. I use 13.5 volts to make sure things work the way they should.

I copied the wiring diagram from a 1/32 scale site, so it is on the web if you need a copy.

 

John Andersen


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