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BZ beater (Watson-Ford)


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#1 Martin

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 09:18 PM

Nothing mint here, bit of a busted up beater. I did not take pics until I glued the broken nose back on. The chassis was scared and scrapes, pipes were glued on crooked and angled wrong, yellow stripe partly missing, etc.

I am looking for a beater Lancer Watson-ford body to cut the parts from to replace the bits that are missing from this car.  

Could not find the stock front wheels, may have to just find something close. It came with those big black Riggens. Any one want to trade?

bz 1.JPG

bz 4.JPG
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#2 Pablo

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 07:06 AM

I'd need a pic of the fronts you need.


Paul Wolcott

#3 Martin

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 11:41 AM

Not too many pics on line but this is the best I could find, Same fronts on the BZ BRM. Notice they have a boss on the inside where it is threaded and a ribbed tire 15/16" in diameter.

BZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.jpg
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#4 Pablo

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 01:30 PM

I'll check later today


Paul Wolcott

#5 Martin

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 02:04 PM

Cool, found this also.

BZ BRM review2-MCR0767_zpslgdtvwmq.jpg
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#6 Pablo

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 07:54 PM

IMG_0115.JPG

 

IMG_0116.JPG

 

IMG_0117.JPG


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#7 Martin

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 11:00 PM

Paul, looks like #5 is a match for the fronts.

What is the diameter of the rears #2 I have some that are 1 and 1/16' and they really need to be 1and 1/8" to have the correct ground clearance.

Thanks for taking the time.


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 11:16 PM

#2 rears are slicks, OD is .988, width is .620.

If you are sure that's the ones you want, I can put black foam donuts on them and make them 1 1/8" OD.


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#9 Martin

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 12:37 AM

Thanks for the offer but I think the outer ring on the #2 rears is a little different from the BZs so I do not want you to go to trouble of re-treading but the (#5) fronts look like a perfect match to me. See if you have ribbed tires that fit?

I have lots of wheels to trade are you looking for anything in particular. Just let me know.


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 12:52 AM

OK. What OD on the fronts?


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#11 Martin

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 10:24 AM

It says 15/16" in the mag article. Looks like they are ribbed. So that's all I know.

More eye candy below.

b101_2.jpg
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#12 Pablo

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 04:07 PM

I have 2 tire options:

 

-hard O-rings that will give .950-ish OD, curved, but no grooves. They can be trimmed to .937 on a Hudy. I know dc-65x has grooved tires, but I haven't done it and I'd rather you do that.

 

-EJ's #15's grooved but not curved, as is they give you .940 OD. You may be able to curve the edges somewhat.

 

I can send both types if you want. RSVP

 

IMG_0124.JPG

 


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#13 Martin

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Posted 09 August 2018 - 06:50 PM

I can make the O-rings work, Thanks. Let me know what you are looking for?


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#14 Martin

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 08:45 PM

Thanks to Pablo I got the fronts on, and this beater is rolling again. Still looking for a broken body I can patch the missing parts in with but for now its a cut-away.

I did figure out how to tread the fronts, I did mess up on the first one, Where do you get those fat o-rings ? I will have to get some more. Rt front side good,the left I messed up a bit.

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#15 Pablo

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 08:59 PM

Hey, you did a good job grooving them! :good: I'll send more Orings. They are not expensive at all.


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#16 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 09:33 PM

Martin, do you mind telling us how & what sort of tool you used to groove those o-rings?


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#17 Martin

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Posted 13 August 2018 - 10:55 PM

Bill,You know how they say the simple solution is the best, well at first I tried a slitting saw in a Dremel while the tires and wheels are spinning in a lathe. It worked but spacing was hard to control. Then I looked down at my bench and there was my X-acto hand saw. It worked great, to bad I did not think of that first.

Thanks Pablo, Please send more and if you want some grooved for your future projects send 'em, I am set up, takes about 5 seconds. A bit of pressure and a little roll of the saw and wham instantly grooved. Should be good for a couple of seconds on a wet track :laugh2: oops wrong sport.


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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 06:45 AM

Thanks Martin, I have both X-acto & Zona saws. I'll have to look at my scroll saw blades too. I will give that a try. :) I've trued & sized o-ring fronts on my lathe since the '70s, but I never tried to put a tread on afterward.


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#19 Martin

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 11:07 AM

I would recommend sticking with a blade that you hold onto tight. I am going to make a fixture to hold the o-ring from the outside so I can grind some flat on the inside. It will fit the rim better this way. Let me know how it works for you.


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 02:15 PM

Groovy, baby, groovy :pardon:


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#21 Pablo

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 02:50 PM

This time, I'm sending two sizes, 7 wrapped in blue paper size 309 (the odd one is to replace the botched one) and 6 in red paper, size 310. And I still have lots more. Tracking # tomorrow......


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#22 Martin

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 07:15 PM

Oh yeah baby!. Very groovy.


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#23 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 09:10 PM

I would recommend sticking with a blade that you hold onto tight.

I have an Eclipse fret saw frame (British) to hold scroll saw blades at whatever tension I want to place on them. This is an old tool I bought in the '60s to saw open model car kit doors. It's just an alternative to the bigger blades.


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#24 Martin

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 09:42 PM

Bill.Not to labor the point and for sure there is more that one way to do it. All I know is if your saw blade can chatter or if you cannot hold the saw close to the tire and roll with the radius of the tire,it may not work as well. But please let me know how it works for you.

Pablo is sending more, so I will take pics of my set up when I groove them if you are interested?. 


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#25 Martin

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Posted 17 August 2018 - 09:35 PM

Thanks Pablo for the o-rings. I am getting a 50% success rate, But it works this way insert into lathe and with a hot iron to melt the I.D. flat, until the a gauge pin fits (head of a socket head bolt) slips inside. I did try various cutters and a sanding drum first.

Then I thread tire and wheel onto an axle and roll/cut the ribs. Some are just better than others. The flat on the 0-ring I.D. dose allow the o-ring to fit flat on the wheel better. The tire on the left side of this pic(right side of car) has no flat the wheel on the right of pic dose have the I.D. flat. The one I cut in half got away from me, it burned a little deep in one spot as you can see.

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