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Choti #5 ultra-thingie


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 09:29 AM

Y'all do understand that is just a 20 lap test car, right?


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#27 Jairus

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 10:24 AM

Yeah... waiting for the main course with baited breath. B:)


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 07:12 PM

Design has been approved by the customer and parts gathering has begun:

 

IMG_0234.JPG

 

-Mid-America wheels with orange donuts, 1/2" Parma O-ring fronts

-Rehco bracket, Slick 7 bushings

-Team Associated 7 gram weight

-Sonic 7T steel pinion

-Parma 29T crown with short hollow screw

-PCH axle

-Parma flag & old skool clips

-Prime braid

-Koford flag spacers and body pins

-Classic flag weight

 

 

 

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#29 Pablo

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Posted 05 September 2018 - 05:41 PM

Motor parts gathering:

-Havlicek endbell drive, reverse timed, 28 wire, .530" stack, .545 OD armature

-Tradeship endbell with stock hardware

-Mura can

-Modern "D" can racing magnets, zapped and matched by Greg Wells

-.005 steel shims

 

IMG_0236.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#30 Pablo

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 02:36 PM

Yeah... waiting for the main course with baited breath. B:)

Took me a while to find it, but here is the Football Fish, Jairus.

He has a little dangly lure and uses it to catch fish

 

DFSJiIjVoAAZUcE.jpg


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 06:37 PM

Endbell work - just the usual TLC:

 

-hog out any areas that the arm contacts

-polish metal parts

-shorten brush holders a few thou to accomodate the big comm

-tap attachment holes for 2-56

 

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-re-install holders and hoods with alignment tool in place, tack solder

 

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-remove hardware, finalize hood/holder solder joints, tin lead wire attachment points

-bathe EB and hardware to remove acid

-apply film of CA to spring posts and install post protectors

-reinstall hardware

 

IMG_0261.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#32 Pablo

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Posted 07 September 2018 - 02:39 PM

Primered with Krylon "Cover Maxx" and painted with VHT "Burnt Copper" hi temp metallic engine enamel

 

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I think it will compliment the body colors

 

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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 07 September 2018 - 03:49 PM

I like that motor can color Pablo. I may have to use it too! :sun_bespectacled:


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 09:17 PM

Thanks Rick :)

 

Basic motor building/blueprinting:

-matched magnets shoehorned in with clips at the sweet spot to center the arm, then secured with CA

-arm OD .545; magnet hole .590

 

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-endbell attachment holes drilled for Koford screws

-vintage 16D brushes marked "+" and "-" polarities

-Champion light springs

-modern spacers for perfect arm placement

 

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Break in - instant start, draws 1 amp at 2 volts, very cool temp.

Then 3 volts, 1.14 amps, for 15 minutes - still cool.

After checking the brush wear pattern, I fed her some volts.

Amazing. Super cool, spooky high and smooth revs.

 

I don't know why, but H arms always run fine with the small brushes as well as the modern sizes.

Maybe it's the quality of the winds, but whatever it is, it's real.


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#35 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 09:36 PM

The smaller brushes are softer & made from a different material than today's 36D brushes. That's why Mabuchi "pull-outs" were so desirable to be run  in the '70s & '80s. 


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 10:46 PM

Understand and agree with your point, except for "today's 36D brushes".

You mean "yesterday's", right? :laugh2:


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#37 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 11:02 PM

No, i meant they were unlike today's harder 36D brushes, be they Proslot, Koford, or the Chinese production brushes. They are the same material as yesterday's 36Ds, namely the Mabuchi "pull-outs". I've been told before that those old brushes contained traces of metals no longer used, but that's not verified.


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 05:09 PM

Cheater's matched race magnets have to have something to do with this performance.

Even with a big airgap, the CoG is strong. This is one of the strongest and happiest vintage motors I've built :D :aggressive: 


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Paul Wolcott

#39 Mark Johnson

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Posted 10 September 2018 - 05:44 PM

Arm blank design is interesting 



#40 Pablo

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 07:24 PM

Chassis specs will be:

WB 4 1/8", GL 1", chassis width 2.90"
Rear wheels 13/16" OD X 5/8" wide
Rear track width 3"; front track width 2 3/4"
Rear clearance 1/16"

 

Bracket corner folds reinforced with brass angle pieces; Slick 7 racing bushings installed.

I notched the bottom corners to allow some creative bracing later on.......

 

IMG_0305.JPG

 

Mid-America vintage wheels after final trim/true, .825" OD.

1/16 wire axle ready but left long for now.....

 

IMG_0312.JPG


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 08:20 PM

WRP tongue reinforced by doubling it with a steel tongue piece.

Both sides tinned, then positioned with small clips and a piece of aluminum tube.

Slathered in acid then mini-torched to make a perfectly aligned grilled cheese sandwich

 

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Both rotating surfaces faced with Magnehone

 

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1/16" wire main rails tinned and ready. Inward bends are exactly 5 degrees

 

IMG_0337.JPG


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2018 - 03:13 PM

Center rail crosspiece and tongue were only rough cut on the monkey.

Now they are set at a perfect - you guessed it - 5 degrees :crazy:

 

IMG_0351.JPG


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 09:30 AM

Bracket bracing

 

IMG_0356.JPG

 

IMG_0358.JPG

 

Tongue bracing

 

IMG_0352.JPG

 

Center section done

 

IMG_0359.JPG


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#44 MattD

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 12:03 PM

Some fantastic builds.     Is this just a reunion and  fun event, or is it some kind of serious, no holds barred race?


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 08:26 PM

I build all my cars to run hard, Matt. Each is track tested and tuned to my standards before they are sent out :)

 

This is what I have so far. The front axle needs more reinforcement, to be continued.......

 

IMG_0365.JPG

 


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#46 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 08:41 PM

I might have extended the brass tongue plate further back so that front axle could be soldered to it for added strength. Too late now. :)


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#47 Martin

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 12:01 AM

Stay tuned Bill

"This is what I have so far. The front axle needs more reinforcement, to be continued"..

I bet Paul plans to add a second wire to triangulate the front axle and tie it all together.

 

.


Martin Windmill

#48 havlicek

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 05:42 AM

Stay tuned Bill

"This is what I have so far. The front axle needs more reinforcement, to be continued"..

I bet Paul plans to add a second wire to triangulate the front axle and tie it all together.

 

.

 

 

Considering this ain't exactly Pablo's first rodeo, I bet he's got this more than covered, as well as having sound reasons for doing things the way he's doing things.  ;)


John Havlicek

#49 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 07:44 AM

I'll agree with Martin. At this point in the build, a strategically placed piece of wire will be best. I wasn't trying to second guess Pablo here, just offering one, but not the only way, to skin a cat. :)


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#50 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 12:08 PM

Why don't you just resolder the existing axle connections with 4% silver solder & forget about it? I do know that silver solder is stronger & stiffer than 60/40. :)  Another suggestion would be to wire-wrap those joints.


Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 






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