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Choti #5 ultra-thingie


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 05:15 PM

.032 wire gizmos buttress the axle joints and .039 "L" struts strengthen and add redundancy

 

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I made a cardboard pattern for some lead weight before putting her in the tumbler for the night

 

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Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 07:17 PM

Flag blueprinted/threaded/faced, etc.

Glue removed from lead chunk, then sanded clean and flat.

Pattern temporarily secured for trimming with a microdot of CA

 

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#53 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 September 2018 - 08:46 PM

At first, I thought "a micrdot of CA" was some new tool you had gotten from California. It took me a couple minutes to realize you meant "a micro dot of CA glue," I might have used a piece of double-sided sticky tape for a function like this.


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#54 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 07:52 AM

Out of the tumbler

 

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Paul Wolcott

#55 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 09:39 AM

Paint experiment: anybody every try painting lead weights?

I shot the test monkey weight with rattle can chrome enamel and it worked super.

It stays put, even after bending it

 

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#56 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 04:51 PM

Lead wires are worth extra effort, in my opinion. A freely rotating flag with some self centering is critical to performance, and you get that via careful routing of the wires :)  In this case, the motor is not yet attached to the bracket, and I decided new single Marklin wires will do the trick. If I was using 45 year old Cox wires, I'd double them for redundancy. But in my race testing Marklins, I never had a failure. So singles it shall be.

 

In a wire perimeter chassis like this, special care needs to prevent the wires from ever touching the track. The old "granny knot" method, followed by swoopy loops to the flag, seems to work well here. The knot needs to be secured so I added a couple drops of white glue. Hopefully it will dry clear and look good

 

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#57 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2018 - 06:58 PM

Lead weights painted to match the motor

 

IMG_0396.JPG


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#58 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2018 - 06:56 PM

Motor installed with Mura sticker :dance3:

 

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Forward weights are same color as motor can

 

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Paul Wolcott

#59 Pablo

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 05:53 PM

Car is complete, minus body. Balance point is right at the granny knot, just like the test monkey :good:

Total weight with body will be 94 grams.

She passes the drivetrain test "no problemo" - really strong

 

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Now, where did I stow that doggone priceless Noose Choti #5 Ultra body? :laugh2:


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#60 Pablo

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:23 PM

Body mounting trick - it seems to help me on this type body, anyway -

Once the rear wheel width is set, remove the spacers (try and remember them, or tape them to a dummy axle) and replace them with dummy spacers that are way short. That way you can visualize the wheels inside the body exactly where they will go, for wheel well trimming purposes

 

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The test monkey body has value in that it worked perfectly so I want to mimic it with the Noose body.

I gave it a good toothbrush and Dial liquid soap bath with warm water to ensure no cooties will transfer to the masterpiece :sun_bespectacled:

 

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#61 dc-65x

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 08:25 PM

Looking really nice Pablo. :good:


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#62 Jay Guard

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 11:14 PM

Nice work, Pablo, but I hope you don't mind one word of (mechanical) advice...

 

I'd wire wrap and re-solder the joint at the upper/outer front axle support. IMO that joint will last about .001 second the first time it's touched no matter how good the solder joint is.


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#63 Pablo

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Posted 24 September 2018 - 08:10 AM

I took Jay's wrapping advice, thanks :good: Body was fairly easy to trim/pin/mount, thanks in no small part to the stripes Noose placed on the skirts. They make a nice visual reference for the wells and the pins :dance3:

 

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Car is complete

 

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I left the flaps behing the rear wheels intact on this car, I think they add some performance and look sexy

 

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#64 Jairus

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 08:25 AM

Looks good Paul! :victory:

But... those rear "fangs" will get sucked up by the rear tires pretty quick in a race.
I'd trim them the way the vintage guys did.

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#65 Pablo

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 08:46 AM

Thanks Jairus :)

Normally I'd agree that body suck would occur and I'd trim them.

But this particular pull has folds that run all the way down and add strength.

I don't know if they were on purpose or not, but they are there.

You can see the one on the left side in my photo.

 

Another factor is, the design on the chassis doesn't allow the body to flop around like a flexi or a tilting plumber.

If I'm wrong and they suck, I'll cut them. But I don't think I'm wrong :curtsey:


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#66 MattD

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 09:13 AM

I don't think you guys should run bodies on such  beautiful chassis.


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