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Bob Emott Ferrari V12 F1 replica


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 05:05 PM

I'm going to do my best imitation of this car:

http://slotblog.net/...-from-the-dead/
Many thanks to TSR for showing us the restored beauty :clapping:
Parts gathering has begun as follows:

Body: Dynamic "SUPER LIGHT" #2522 '68 Ferrari F1, butyrate, 10 thou (new in box with decals)

Paint: Jairus Watson

Chassis: WB 4", GL 15/16"

Motor: H Power arm, Cox can, Mura EB
Bracket: Russkit; face elevated .032" for perfect angle
Crown: Weldun 32T

Pinion: 7T Sonic steel
Flag: Cox Quickchange

Wires: Marklin
Rear wheels: Weldun with blue donuts (cortesy dc-65x), and an extra set of Russkit replica wheels with orange donuts, 7/8" OD, 5/8 width, 1/16" rear clearance

Axle: PCH

Front wheels: Dynamic #675 with K&B #411 tires (courtesy dc-65x) :friends:


 


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2018 - 04:44 PM

I have almost all the parts. The ones not shown are already on order.

Thanks to all those who helped steer me in the right direction :D

 

IMG_0581.JPG

 

The only thing I still need help with is the front Dynamic 4 spoke wheels.

I don't even have a good photo or a part #. All I have is the photos on TSR's thread.

If anybody has a set to sell, please PM me :pardon:

 


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Paul Wolcott

#3 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2018 - 09:38 PM

Front wheels found :D :sun_bespectacled:


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Paul Wolcott

#4 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2018 - 04:05 PM

Before I can order the H Power arm, I need to nail down the entire motor setup.

I gutted the stock Cox can; gimbal bushing and flimsy copper retainer gizmo went into the round file.

 

Removed the housing, sanded the outer edges as well as the can hole edge, and expanded the inner hole to 3/16 in a vice with my poor man's lathe and a Unibit.

 

Found a sweet new in pack SKF ball bearing :dance3:

 

IMG_0584.JPG

 

A little soak in Zippo to remove any 45 year old cooties and purify the metal

 

IMG_0587.JPG

 

BB floated home with minitorch

 

IMG_0591.JPG


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2018 - 07:42 PM

Housing and BB soldered home in the can. I used a new Mura endbell for an alignment tool :)

 

IMG_0596.JPG


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 07 October 2018 - 05:08 PM

Mura endbell work:

-deck hogged out to allow big comm

-bracket mounting holes tapped to 2-56

-post protectors permanently secured with CA

-brush holders soldered to roofs

-lead wire tabs tinned

-new vintage 16D brushes pre-radiused with Koford tool

-brushes and roof marked for polarity

 

IMG_0610.JPG

 

Alignment and fit to the (virgin) can is perfect. I see no need to drill EB attachment holes and screws - the tabs will fold over real nice, as designed :)

 

Custom armature to fit the setup will be built by Havlicek and balanced by Alpha  :D

 


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Paul Wolcott

#7 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 05:39 PM

Wheels ready to go :good:

 

IMG_0615.JPG

 

 


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#8 olescratch

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 07:40 PM

Big hubs rule!  


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#9 Martin

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 08:15 PM

I like big hubs, and I cannot lie,  :D 


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 07:07 PM

I like strong rear ends and I cannot lie...... :laugh2:

Looking at the photos, it's obvious Bob didn't want any flex in his motor box.

I can't guarantee all my braces will be exactly the same, but I'll do the best I can.

 

Here is mine, so far:

-bracket cleaned, polished, straightened, solder points tinned, nubbies shaved off

-axle tube cut to size and tinned

-upper bracket angle brace bits are tubing, not rods, to save weight high up. Bob would approve

 

IMG_0620.JPG


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 05:32 PM

Bracing done

 

IMG_0627.JPG

 

 


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#12 Martin

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Posted 14 October 2018 - 09:16 PM

Pretty beefy,  Bob would approve.


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 07:47 AM

I think so, too :)

The tubes instead of rod buttresses ( I can hear Martin giggling "giggety" from here lol), I won't be doing again even though they worked OK - solder kept wicking into them instead of pooling.

 

Next step - practicing the wraparound front axle holder curls........


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2018 - 06:10 PM

After ruining some brass rod, I found a good method :D

Made myself a tool gizmo out of 1/16 wire and gear hubs.

Wrap the wire around, cut to length, and give a final crimp with pliers.

 

IMG_0633.JPG

 

The rods will have the same tool gouge marks as Bob's did :dance3: :crazy:

 

IMG_0635.JPG


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#15 Martin

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 12:35 AM

Cool, lead filled tubes to add a bit more traction at the rear.But seriously I would not have thought it would keep wicking the solder into the tubing.

Nice tight loops for the wire axle. I like low tech tools that help duplicate the original.

 Just looked at Bob chassis again. Did you notice it looks like its rear lower brace tube has been flattened or filed and sanded, not sure. Did you notice that? 


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 07:57 AM

"Cool, lead filled tubes to add a bit more traction at the rear"

 

Not what I had in mind at all. I was trying to save weight up high, not add it.

 

"Did you notice it looks like its rear lower brace tube has been flattened or filed and sanded, not sure"

 

I don't think any bracket braces on the original chassis were tubes. I think what you are looking at is solder that pooled onto a flat surface. I don't doubt there was some filing and sanding going on, nothing unusual about it.

I just hope I did my replica bracing close enough to Bob's to satisfy the VP.  My wire is .047 :D

 

Later today, I'll be having a brass rod wrapping party :dance3:


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#17 Martin

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 12:14 PM

Party on, my observations matter not. We must be looking at different areas?


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 02:59 PM

The most important thing is ensuring the axle tubes don't become misaligned during racing.

It binds the axle, tears up your gears, bogs and cooks the motor, and ruins your day.

 

Tubes won't tolerate a bit of misalignment like BB's will :)

 

IMG_0644.JPG


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 04:45 PM

Party is over

 

IMG_0646.JPG

 

When the time comes, I'll solder the front axle in place on the jig, mash the wraps down, then re-solder it. I have to believe that's exactly how Bob did it. Standard 3/8" wide plier teeth will do four at once :yu:


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Paul Wolcott

#20 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 04:58 PM

A couple wraps of tape on your pliers' jaws will diminish scaring, unless you have a pair of nylon jaw flat nose pliers.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#21 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2018 - 05:36 PM

Good advice, Bill, but see post #14.

 

All jigged up :)

 

IMG_0649.JPG

 

WB 4", GL 15/16", front pins double tubed for 1/16" axle, bracket face elevated .032" for perfect angle.

Rear axle set for 7/8" rears and 1/16" clearance

 

 


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 04:32 PM

Reducer gizmos given a drop of Loctite 271®.

 

IMG_0652.JPG

 

I went to make a test axle out of rod to perfect the bends before making a wire one.

Wouldn't fit inside the gizmo, so I did a little gentle reaming with a round file.

No go. Champhered a piece of wire and polished it a little. No go.

 

I have 1/8 and 3/32 reamers, but no 1/16. So I ordered one :D


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#23 Martin

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 06:46 PM

I wonder what size wire those reducers were made for ? Could it be for ,055" wire.  Your 1/16 " wire is on size?, I know you checked that.

I guess we can put it down to manufacturing tolerances?


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 06:54 PM

Good thought, Martin, but no way would they have made reducers for a bastard size like .055.

I checked it - they wobble like crazy with .055.

Yes, my 1/16 wire and rods are "on size". I checked them again and again.

 

Sure, I could have chucked up a length of wire in my poor man's lathe and sanded it down to fit.

But then I probably wouldn't have had room to tin it.

 

I wouldn't call it "manufacturing tolerances". I'm officially calling it:

"Pablo needs to buck up and get a 1/16 reaming tool" :laugh2:

 

Good call, though, Martin :good:


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#25 Martin

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 07:11 PM

I guess these little fitment issues are to test our commitment to the craft, or something like that.

Build on, Pablo

I was noticing the flattened rod (gear protector) at the rear. Its not to late to add this Bob detail. Did he intend to save a little weight behind the axle or did P file out some damage when restoring it? Its pretty pronounced.


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