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Bob Emott Ferrari V12 F1 replica


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#26 Martin

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 07:20 PM

If you look at that rod close, it actually might of been flattened in a vise or press? and that would not save weight so that's that  theory out the window. Sure makes a good bumper though. 


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 07:32 PM

I guess these little fitment issues are to test our commitment to the craft, or something like that.

Build on, Pablo

I was noticing the flattened rod (gear protector) at the rear. Its not to late to add this Bob detail. Did he intend to save a little weight behind the axle or did P file out some damage when restoring it? Its pretty pronounced.

 

Martin, I edited your posts to delete the photos. Those are property of PdL and the museum, and I respect that.

Not to mention, anybody who wants to see them can do so on PdL's thread as I pointed out the link to it in my first post.

 

If the "gear guard" on the original car was, indeed, filed/flattened as you suggest, it doesn't matter to me, as mine is elevated way above ground zero. I said in the beginning my bracket bracing is going to be close to, but not intended to be, exactly like Bob's. To do that would require better photos, and I really don't consider that necessary.

 

Isn't it enough that I fully appreciate Emott's engineering philosophies and do the best I can to do what he would do if tasked today?


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#28 Martin

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Posted 17 October 2018 - 09:11 PM

I am never trying to bust you, just pointing out a detail in Bob's build that I had not noticed before. If you do not want my comments as a point of conversation. Just say the word. I will watch at arms length and keep my comments to "good job" and alike.

 

I did not think showing a PdL's pic here was against the SB rules, sorry about that. I had thought I had seen other PdL museum pics here on SB. I could be wrong about that.

 

I hope you are not saying that I do not respect Pdl and the museum's contributions. Because if you new me you would know there was absolutely no disrespect indented. In fact the opposite.  


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#29 tonyp

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 07:04 AM

May have been filed for clearance.
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#30 Cheater

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 03:00 PM

Martin, I edited your posts to delete the photos. Those are property of PdL and the museum, and I respect that.


Pablo,

Philippe has given Slotblog blanket permission to post any of the LASCM pics here at Slotblog if the watermark is present or credit is given. Have no worries in that regard.

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#31 Pablo

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 04:42 PM

Dummy front axle done. Both angles are 75 degrees; center distance across the rails is about 1.75"

 

IMG_0655.JPG


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 07:27 PM

1/16" wire axle, tinned and ready, along with a length of pre-tinned .055 wire for the gussets

 

IMG_0657.JPG

 


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 04:48 PM

First and second sets of rails tacked in, making a nice snug nest

 

IMG_0661.JPG


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 07:18 PM

Temporary rod tacked across the rails at the exact spot where the (rearward) front axle gusset will sit. It nails down the rail widths - exactly parallel, for the drop arm

 

IMG_0665.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#35 Pablo

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 06:40 PM

Reamer worked like a charm   :D

 

IMG_0670.JPG  

 

Toothpicks used to fine tune chassis positioning.

Probably not necessary, but I am a freak for tight tolerances :crazy:

 

IMG_0676.JPG


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2018 - 07:50 PM

Brass rod main rails are (tacked in) done. One more piano wire rail on the outside to follow.....

 

IMG_0680.JPG


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#37 dc-65x

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Posted 23 October 2018 - 08:17 PM

Nice Pablo. I love all that brass. :sun_bespectacled:


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 08:20 PM

Thanks Rick :D

Outside wire rails in place

 

IMG_0689.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#39 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2018 - 04:52 PM

All body mount, drop arm hinge and cross brace bits are done, concentric and polished.

Tolerances for length are about +/- 3 thou.

 

Every time I work on an Emott replica, I am amazed at how many tricks he knew that still hold true today. Case in point - here the forward body mounts have extremely little amounts of wiggle, and the rear mounts allow quite a bit of wiggle.

 

Also, look at how the drop arm hinge assembly is buttressed on both sides and the wire piece prevents the rails from spreading or compressing at the hinge :good: :sun_bespectacled:

 

IMG_0695.JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 10:41 PM

I tried to do the front axle just as Bob did :)

Positioned with wheels in place, chassis elevated 1/32", tack soldered for a temporary check

 

IMG_0704.JPG

 

Some slight tweaks to perfect the positioning, a secondary tacking, then both rail curls are crimped

 

IMG_0711.JPG

 

After a final alignment check, the chassis goes to a wood block for some serious acid, heat and solder

 

IMG_0713.JPG

 

IMG_0719.JPG


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 07:58 PM

My .047 wire front axle brace is slightly different than the original. I took the liberty of making it stronger and better, since the original setup actually failed in the race. Mine won't fail, and I think Bob approves

 

IMG_0728.JPG

 

IMG_0733.JPG


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 05:38 PM

Outer tubes in place. All six are flush with the inside edges of the inner rods. The four body mount tubes end exactly at the outside edge of the outboard wire rails, and the two drop arm hinge tubes end exactly at the outside edge of the outboard rod rails - just like Bob's as far as I can tell :hi:

 

IMG_0739.JPG


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 05:23 PM

Cox flag cleaned up, deck sanded, edges hit with emory board, rotating surface faced with Magnehone tool. Shaft tube cut concentric and polished on bottom, then elevated .122" (same as flag deck height) using a rusty nut :)  I nailed the outer drop arm rod first try, Bunky  :dance3:

 

IMG_0746.JPG


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 06 November 2018 - 06:00 PM

The beginnings of my Emott replica drop arm; probably the most challenging jaildoor arm I've ever done. I did my best to make it look like Bob's.

Nothing is ever force-soldered in place here at The Wolcott Ranch - everything lays natural :curtsey:

The small wire pieces at the rear are just temporary connections

 

IMG_0763.JPG

 

IMG_0771.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#45 Pablo

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Posted 06 November 2018 - 07:23 PM

Alignment check of the flag shaft tube using Tongue Tweaker.

Left/right dead straight up, and fore/aft with a very slight tilt, maybe 1 degree or so

 

IMG_0776.JPG


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2018 - 05:37 PM

Judging by the amount of solder Bob pooled into the gaps between the rods n wires, I'd say he wanted this baby to be heavy with a low CG. After tacking everything in the correct positions, I taped it to a block, turned the Hakko on full heat, and hand fed it a bunch of 60/40 :hi:

 

IMG_0778.JPG


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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 07 November 2018 - 07:00 PM

Looks really good to me Pablo. When loading up multiple brass rods with solder sometimes the opposite side needs a little clean up with a riffler file.......but that's the nature of the beast.


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 07 November 2018 - 07:23 PM

Thanks Rick, yes there was a lot of filing, sanding, and cleanup to get the drop arm done :)

Here is the end result:

 

IMG_0787.JPG


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 06:05 PM

Piece of cake

 

IMG_0789.JPG


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#50 Pablo

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 06:10 PM

Lead chunk is two pieces of .040" with the adhesive removed, tacked as a sandwich with a piece of .039 wire drop arm stop up top. Guaranteed to cause cancer in California but it's OK in Mississippi :laugh2:

 

I made a piece of 3/32 tubing for the rear body mount which the original car didn't have. Two reasons:

1) when I punch the pin holes the hole will be centered

2) it can be added or removed to tune the amount of wiggle for the rear of the body

 

Sans the removeable pieces of tubing, the lead chunk, and the plaque, she goes into the tumbler.

I'll JB Weld the chunk and plaque tomorrow  :)

 

IMG_0795.JPG


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