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A slightly earlier Green Can


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 12:48 PM

     I just finished cleaning-up a "first edition" (?) Mura Green Can, the one without the axle clearance notch.  The whole shebang got turned and milled flat, and the can was especially nice...needing not very much at all.  I was about to cut an axle notch, and then thought that maybe it should be left as-is???  Seems silly since the can could go either anglewinder or inline with or without the notch, but the notch would allow for slightly better clearance as an anglewinder.  Any ideas?

 

Untitled.jpg


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#2 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 01:01 PM

Those things are rare and getting rarer. Keep it as it is. If someone wants a notched can they can get one.

 

That,s my vote.


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#3 Don Weaver

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 01:06 PM

Leave the ol' girl alone :good: !


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#4 havlicek

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 01:21 PM

Well, that's two big votes to keep "her"  ;)  as-is.  I guess I'll do an end bell with lead-wire tabs instead of bussbars?


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#5 Geary Carrier

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 02:40 PM

Tabs is fabs...

 

Notchless naturally.


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Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#6 havlicek

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 03:13 PM

I seem to also remember (or I'm hallucinating :) ) that there was an early C end bell without the bottom clearance notch, but I have no such thing, and they're probably like the proverbial "hen's teeth".

The last quirk here is that the bearing/bushing hole is the larger .250" size from earlier B and A cans.  I was going to make an adapter, but I figure that the correct diameter oilite is a better way to go.  I have two...one long one that would stick out pretty danged far, and I assume is more for end bell duty, and one shorter one that would still stick out fairly far, and seems more likely for the can.  Then again, I doubt that either would be for the end bell, as I *think* those were all 6mm after the 16D ("A"), but the dizzying array of variations that happened in such a short period of time are awfully hard to get a hold of!  :D


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#7 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 03:22 PM

John

 Have you ever gone to the auto parts store looking for parts for a Rambler. You almost need to know what week it was built in for some parts.

 

Actually I have not done that but I have heard stories.


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 03:45 PM

I vote the same - use the non-notched for cars that don't require it, and a notched one for those that do.


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#9 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 04:22 PM

I believe Mura added the C-can axle cutout & the 6MM endbell bushings at the same time. Previous to that, they had an endbell with the small splined bushings the A & B cans used. When using 6MM unflanged bearings with these endbells, we screwed an external brass plate with a reamed 6MM hole & soldered in the bearing. If someone wants a can slot, let them cut their own. We always did that with the more popular, in the Northeast, Champion C-cans.


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#10 dc-65x

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 06:23 PM

Hi John,
 
Here's an endbell comparison from an earlier build:
 

 Here is the pile-O-parts for the endbell. The elephant ear heat sinks won't be used. They don't quite clear the body I'll be using. It's all Mura stuff except for the repop comm cooler and stainless steel machine screws (no self tapping stuff):
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%205.jpg
 
Here's a comparison between the early and late C-can end bells. The "small bearing" end bell on the right (which I'll be using on this '71 build) is really a modified B-can end bell modified by Mura to fit the narrower C-can. The Mura C-can specific  and commonly encountered "big bearing" end bell is on the left:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2067.jpg
 
The end bell needs some cutting up. It at least needs a frame clearance notch and I've also added comm inspection holes as shown on the end bell on the right:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2030.jpg
 
The small bearing used is a carry over size going back to the B-motor and even the Mabuchi 16D. I polished its face which probably doesn't do anything but it was fun:  :crazy:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2018.jpg
 
On the right below is the stock Mura brush post screw and bushing. On the left is a #2 machine screw, reversed bushing and fiber insulator. In the center is the assembled piece:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2012.jpg
 
The brush hoods with the wire buss bars (shown on the bottom) installed:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%208.jpg
 
Since this is a low profile B-motor endbell, brass shims are needed to center it up in the taller C-can. The sketch on the Post-it note is something I made 20 years ago from the parts in a new in the package Mura-Green motor kit I bought from PdL.
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%207.jpg
 
The finished end bell:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%206a.jpg
 
Motor assembly time :dance3:


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#11 havlicek

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 07:00 PM

Cool Rick!  I was pretty sure there was an earlier end bell and even though I *think* I have another "B", I'll just use a "C" end bell with the notch already there.  I'm guessing you used the oilite for the can...was it the long honkin' big one?


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#12 dc-65x

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Posted 10 October 2018 - 08:20 PM

The giant Mura can bearings are on the early A-cans I've seen. I went with a notched can and a ball bearing on this one.

I forgot to show a picture of the parts I'm using in the can along with a vintage packaged piece:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%203.jpg
 
I finished off the can with a tinned area to solder the motor in and a black wrinkle paint job:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2065.jpg


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#13 havlicek

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 04:20 AM

 

Posted Yesterday, 09:20 PM

The giant Mura can bearings are on the early A-cans I've seen. I went with a notched can and a ball bearing on this one.

 

Ah.  This can has a .250" bearing hole like the older ones.  I'll have to ruminate a bit on this.


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 06:42 AM

I decided to make up an adapter to go from the .250" stock bearing hole to 6mm.  This way I can have the best of both worlds.  The adapter can easily be removed by heating it to melt the solder...should anyone wish to do that.  Meanwhile, with no .250" x 2mm bearings available that I'm aware of (*least not good ones), the motor can benefit greatly from having a good bearing.  There's not a lot of ID to OD wall left on the adapter when bored to 6mm, but taking things in steps and going a little slowly pays off when doing this.

IMG_3107.JPG

 

Behind the can are a pair of the "long and strong" C magnets for this old girl.


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#15 havlicek

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 09:03 AM

So, this can is so danged straight and crisp, I'm going to do a regular gloss solid color to show off it's lines.  It originally was some sort of blue...so the archaeological evidence has pointed me in the direction I need to go.  :D


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#16 havlicek

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 09:30 AM

Here she is with her new party dress on.  I also assembled the end bell, using the notched C-can type I described.  I also added an extra set of "B" bottom plates to spread out the heat a little and add some cooling with their wider profile.

IMG_3108.JPG


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#17 havlicek

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 06:33 PM

Magnets are epoxied-in, and they result in pretty much a .530" hole.  They call that "plug and play" or sumthin', and this motor can get a "heart" now.

IMG_3109.JPG


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#18 Mark Johnson

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 07:30 PM

Load jf up


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#19 havlicek

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Posted 12 October 2018 - 05:51 AM

Load jf up

 

 

...roger, wilco...will do.  :)


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