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Just for a rainy day


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 12:46 PM

I've had a pair of Mura 16D cans kicking around for quite a while, and have always pout them aside because of how rough they were.  One had it's holes opened-up some, the other had notches cut at the open end seam.  I straightened those little bits up some while fixing-up the rest of the can's outer and inner surfaces.  These things needed a whole lot of work to get presentable, but now they can go in my 16D drawer, and be ready for a project. 

IMG_3202.JPG


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#2 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 01:22 PM

That's beautiful work....I can't tell where any repairs have been done


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"Whatever..."

#3 havlicek

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Posted 28 October 2018 - 02:07 PM

That's beautiful work....I can't tell where any repairs have been done

 

Thanks very much John.  It took a heckuva lot of work, and you never know when you start these things whether it will have been worth it.  Fortunately, these two worked out really well, but there have been times when I go through this and it didn't work out.  THAT is a bummer.


John Havlicek

#4 Jaeger Team

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 04:25 AM

It seems you have soldered the two round sides. Did you do it to reinforce them or for aesthetic reasons?


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Maurizio Salerno

#5 havlicek

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 05:30 AM

It seems you have soldered the two round sides. Did you do it to reinforce them or for aesthetic reasons?

 

Ciao Maurizio,

No, the sides had been previously soldered on both cans.  The seam welds on the "A" (16D) Muras failed a lot from what I've seen.  They were smaller and much closer to the open end of the can than on the later "B" and "C" cans.  Both of these cans had been soldered in an attempt to make repairs.  While epoxying the magnets in place as well as using all four screw locations to retain the end bell would prevent that from being much of a problem in use, I guess the repairs had been done as an extra precaution.  The problem with these cans was that heavy grinding had been done along those seams, that I can only assume was done to clean them before soldering.  As well, the bearing straps at the back also had been cut/ground most likely for chassis and/or bracket-clearance.

With cans like these, the only way to semi-efficiently clean them up, down to new/smooth metal was to have at it on the belt/disc sander the way knife-makers do, and my little "Wen" el-cheapo 1" belt and 5" disc combo machine got a real workout...as did I.  You have to start out with a plan when doing this to at least get a starting "plane" that you'll work down from on the flats, and rotating the can to get an even cut started on the curves.  This is all done with mostly feel and eye, as changing your grip and/or not paying attention can make for an error that can be difficult or impossible to straighten out as you go.  The top and bottom flats on these cans are also somewhat concave in the center...or raised along the edges, so removing grind and cut marks from the cans needs to be balanced against winding-up with a flat surface.  The aim is to wind up with the last bit of untouched can metal being in the center where you know the can is the most concave to start with.


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#6 Jaeger Team

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 12:15 PM

Really lot of work! Thanks for explanation.
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Maurizio Salerno

#7 havlicek

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 02:20 PM

Really lot of work! Thanks for explanation.

 

 

It really is Maurizio.  The last thing I would want to do is try and seem as though this stuff is easy for me.  Even after doing a lot of them and figuring out how to proceed, it's still not a sure thing, and sometimes the problems get worse if I'm not careful.


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