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Drag blast relay


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#1 mreibman

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 09:33 AM

I may be dipping my toes into some drag racing.

 

I have an old difalco external resistor controller that I expect to use. It is wired to trigger a relay that is in an external box. (I have a couple of controllers wired thusly to share 1 box).

 

I figured I could build another box to have a drag relay setup.

 

However, I don't know how to wire the relay for drag racing.

there's a battery involved, I will have a black and white wire from the controller to hook up, and I have an activator wire from the controller already (it's on the last segment of the wiper block on this controller, rather than the full speed contact).

 

Does anyone have a diagram for putting this all together, and is it the same relay I would use for road racing? I attached pics of the ones I've been using lately.

 

Attached Images

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Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
 
 




#2 Slot-Racer

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 12:36 PM

I asked a long time ago about simply even confirming a wiring of a Difalco (non drag) controller that many have and are popular, and all anyone had to do was to simply look at their already wired and working controller wiring and confirm how it was wired. I never got a reply. I did eventually figure it out myself. So if you are looking for a wiring wizard here don't hold your breath. Sorry to break the news. I'll be shocked and amazed if someone gives you a correct reply here.  People that tried to help suggested to get or find the same controller and simply copy the wiring.  :)

 

Get this, I even spoke with Jim Difalco himself and he stated that for his controllers there is no wiring diagram and even when I suggested it would be helpful for people can read one his reply was that people in this hobby are not savvy enough to read one although I can and I'm sure others can too.

 

I did some of your homework for you also. Maybe you can find your answer here:

 

http://slotblog.net/...wiring-diagram/

 

http://www.slotcarra...trol/relays.htm

 

Good luck!


Mario Damis

#3 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 01:35 PM

Notice he did not tell you how to wire it up.

 

I have a question for the drag racers. Is there any difference in the way a blast relay is used on a drag controller and or any other controller?

 

I don't see how there could be.


Eddie Fleming

#4 Slot-Racer

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 01:42 PM

Notice he did not tell you how to wire it up.

 

I have a question for the drag racers. Is there any difference in the way a blast relay is used on a drag controller and or any other controller?

 

I don't see how there could be.

 

I don't have a drag controller. I was referring to a non drag controller in my example.  :laugh2:


Mario Damis

#5 MSwiss

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 01:43 PM

Eddie,

Drag tracks typically don't have a brake terminal so you have to use a 9V battery to activate it.


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Mike Swiss
 
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#6 mreibman

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 04:13 PM

Eddie,

Drag tracks typically don't have a brake terminal so you have to use a 9V battery to activate it.

@Mike Swiss - that's the one fact of it that I knew.

 

The resistor based controller (like a DD201 or DD204, I don't recall) that I have is like 25 years old. As a controller, it will work for drag by itself.

 

I can wire a relay for a 3 pole track hookup. I have done a couple. It's pretty simple, but I did have to mark up a diagram and do a mockup to get it to work.

 

@Mario Damis - I remember reading that post...

Black and white go from the controller to the relay then the track like stock wiring.
One wire from your 9 volt battery goes to the relay coil.
The other wire from your 9 volt battery goes to the power contact.
A wire goes from the ground (wire to trigger, white?) to the other relay coil.

 

Transbrake, NC push button switch goes somewhere in the power wire.

(Not that I'm worried about a trans brake at this moment)

I'll wire one up and see how it goes with my test gear.

 

*IF* I don't blow everything up, AND it works, then I promise visuals. photos, diagram, whatever. I mean if you're a real masochist, I could make a powerpoint presentation for ya!

 

Face it, we're all slot racers. We're a little off. We love to tinker with things just to see if we can do them, right?

 

I have all the parts already, so the cost here is some time.


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Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
 
 

#7 Slot-Racer

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Posted 01 November 2018 - 04:58 PM

@ Mike Reibman, I hope you can get it working! You could maybe call Jim up and see if he is willing to guide you?  :)


Mario Damis

#8 mreibman

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 05:58 AM

@ Mike Reibman, I hope you can get it working! You could maybe call Jim up and see if he is willing to guide you?  :)


I bet if I bought a difalco drag relay, it would come with installation instructions.

 

This page is where I got the detail on how to wire the road controller relays:

http://www.slotside.com/tt/click.html

 

I am going to use that as the basis, and then test with a battery or power supply to make the relay go click without the brake wire.


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Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
 
 

#9 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 12:43 PM

The slotside diagram is good  - to a point.  The terminals on the relay diagram are not numbered, but they ARE all the same.

 

Combining your relay schmatic and the Cidex instructions:

 

Solder the white wire to the #30 terminal.

Solder the black wire to the #87 terminal. This terminal is usually bent flat to the outside and the Black and White are pointed the same direction to hook to the track.

The center (#87a) is the normally closed side and you can cut off the lug to make wiring room.

The #85 & #86 terminals are where the power to fire the relay go - with a light duty signal wire to the full on point in the controller handle to switch it.  The diode and resistor shown in the Cidex diagram are a bonus to extend the point life of the coil.  The relay can work without them, but is nice to add if you can.


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#10 Slot-Racer

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Posted 28 November 2018 - 07:01 PM

Mike, did you ever get this to work??  :) I hope you did. 


Mario Damis

#11 mreibman

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 01:26 PM

I haven't had a chance to rig it yet, but I plan to try it this week. I had an epiphany this morning.

 

so I'm going to try putting the 9V negative connector where the brake wire usually goes. The signal wire should get 9V positive connection when it's time to trip the relay on, and remove it when it's off. This seems to me why the drag relay kit comes with a micro switch.

 

If I'm right, then I'll be able to do it. Document it, and go smoke a cigar.

 

If I'm wrong, well, then maybe I smoke a relay.


Mike Reibman
Alleged amateur racer.
Mostly just play with lots of cars.
Able to maintain slot cars with a single bound.
Faster than a speeding Womp.
More powerful than a 36D.
 
 

#12 Slot-Racer

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Posted 29 November 2018 - 01:40 PM

Awesome! I hope it works for you! Hopefully you end up smoking a cigar!  :laugh2:


Mario Damis

#13 Jim Difalco

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Posted 01 December 2018 - 07:49 PM

Hi Guys, yes I actually am in business to support my family so I do not give the milk away for free. So yes my relay kit comes with instructions for various different controllers to hook a relay up correctly, and the best way, depending on if it is a plain turbo or one of my controllers. I kinda think I am entitled to being paid for stocking all the parts and the knowledge on how to install them.

 

No Mario, I do not have full detailed schematics for my products. Rudduck controllers were sealed shut for a very long time for a reason. I bet he didn't have a schematic and wouldn't send it to you if he did. I have always had my controllers out in the open so if you want to spend the time to make your own schematic be my guest.

 

And I probably said MOST racers could not read a schematic properly. The key word being MOST.

 

 

 

Thanks, Jim Difalco


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