21 replies to this topic

[Phil Beukema]

I've been using Tri-Flow lubricant once per race on the axle bearings and motor bushings (no additional lubricating) with pretty good results.
 
Has anyone had issues with this product?
 
Thanks!

[Tim Wood]

By the name (Tri-Flow lubricant) maybe you should be using it three times per race.     

[Eddie Fleming]

Tri-Flow is good stuff. We used it at work, but I don't know anyone using it for slot cars.

 

If it is working for you great keep on using it. I never tried it because I did not want anything I had to shake up before using.

[havlicek]

From what I have seen about this stuff, it's some kind of oil with Teflon added and is used for bicycles... maybe fishing gear?  Those are low RPM applications so it may be fine for slots, but may not be ot the best choice.

[boxerdog]

I have heard the same thing that John indicated, that it is a lubricant designed primarily for sliding or low speed mechanisms. There might be better options for slots. 

[zipper]

Teflon impregnated motor bearings in '70s - they did disappear quite soon I think.

[Mike Patterson]

I use Tri-Flow on bicycle chains. IIRC, its main advantage for that application is it tends to cling to the chain, instead of being thrown everywhere when you crank up the RPMs.

[MG Brown]

I have used Tri-Flow on bicycles also and I feel that it's very good for that application. It particularly seems to protect metals from corrosion very well; probably because it sticks to the metal rather than eventually oozing off.

 

It would appear looking at the product Material Safety Data Sheet that 10% Propane and 10% Butane, which IIRC from organic chemistry are basically waste products of the natural gas production process, are found in Tri-Flow.

 

We have found that a 100% synthetic oil of the type sold by Project X Slot Car Racing that is made particularly for slot car bushings is by far a better bet.

 

 

Mineral oils do thicken over time and exposure to heat also because of the inconsistent molecule size and shape.

 

 

Certainly, with the high temperatures found in Slot Car motor bushings- this process is probably accelerated when using mineral based oils as a lubricant.

 

But back to Tri-Flow- on its MSDS it also lists as content Heavy Naphthenic Petroleum Oil at 41% (Mineral based and one of the ingredients in NAPALM that makes it stick to things) and Heavy Paraffinic Oil at 3%; Paraffin is basically another name for WAX. These two ingredients are perhaps why Tri-Flow sticks well to bicycle chains and also why it might be prone to thickening.

[Mr. M]

I used it for bearings back in the day for 27s and found it made them quite sluggish after they sat around even for a day. When first applied it spins up real well, but not so good after a rest.

[MSwiss]

I think the problem is some guys think spinning the rear axle assembly, with their index finger, without a motor installed, as a sign of how well an oil works. If that was the case, we would be using lighter fluid instead of oil.
 
Oil isn't for making the car go faster. It's for not having it slow down, due to premature/unnecessary wear of the components.
 
I think the question on what oil is proven to work the best, or certainly as well, as any, was answered when I ran this "$2 Chinese motor" for 232+ hours.
 
From my ad for Chicagoland Raceway, CR001, Cross-Country oil:

Certainly, some signs of wear, but considering it ran multiple 5-8 hour stretches, without additional relubrication, and the car literally chugged 232.5+ hours, and literally traveled the distance from the Atlantic to Pacific oceans, pretty darn impressive.
 
If someone else wants to run a car with a Hawk 25, 3,400+ real miles, and display less wear than the below pic, they should certainly do it, and tout it.
 

[Eddie Fleming]

Oil isn't for making the car go faster. It's for not having it slow down, due to premature/unnecessary wear of the components.

 I like that.

[Mr. M]

Mike, it can't be good if it causes noticible drag on ball bearings after aging.

[MSwiss]

I have Tri-Flow in my garage.

I use it on my bike chain, and the inside of the chute on my snow blower, to keep wet snow from clogging.

I never thought of using it on a slot car.

I guess I could of sprayed it in an oiler bottle, but I learned all I needed to know, during that Hawk longevity test.

[NSwanberg]

What I determined about Tri-Flow is that it works best on all plastic gear sets such as in 1/32 slot cars.

[SpeedyNH]

I've used it with success, lightly, but not for ball bearings as it is too thick.

[Tim Wood]

Phil, looks like you will have to run your own tests on your cars. If you have been using that oil in the last couple races, I would keep using it, you have only gotten faster lap times. Let me know if you start having any failures, motor, bearings, gears. Thanks, Tim

[SlotStox#53]

Used Tri-flow on Parma Womp-based cars with 16D power in oval racing with zero problems or noticeable issues.

No timing to check on laptimes, racing was on all four lanes, four races of 8 laps each per lane. Track was on 2x 8x4s end to end.

[Booger]

Homemade Tri-flow oil secret formula... oil, mineral spirits, and paraffin wax (why it gets thick)... Shake well before using.

[mark1]

Blend it with some 0W20 synthetic. It might work OK.

[Eddie Fleming]

Or just use the 0W20 synthetic.

[MSwiss]

Tri-Flow season in Chicago. LOL.

[Phil Beukema]

Looks like a job for "Cross Country" oil !