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Chassis built by Pete Schrader?


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#1 Detroit Dave

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 09:11 AM

Does anyone recall a chassis builder named Peter Shrader who might have been associated with Team Nutley?
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#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 09:58 AM

I don't know Dave, but how about also sending a PM to guys on here who also raced at Nutley? Three names that come to mind are Tony P., John Gorski, and Steve Okeefe.

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#3 tonyp

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 07:37 PM

Never heard of him.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#4 slotcarone

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 08:46 PM

Never heard the name before! Sorry.

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#5 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 02 December 2018 - 10:19 PM

Have not heard that name either.
 
Any photos of his work?

#6 Detroit Dave

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 07:43 AM

Here is the chassis with his name engraved in one of the bat pans. I realize Nutley drop arms were availalble individually but the chassis came with others including one with a scribe from Bob Mr. number 2 EMott.

d1.jpg
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#7 Jaeger Team

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 08:36 AM

IMO it is very fine original work, with some bad repairs. Worth a good restoration.
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#8 Detroit Dave

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 09:17 AM

I love the square tube construction, not sure why though other than the clean look of the rails. I’m not sure I have the technique to do a proper restoration but I want to start somewhere. This is why I want to check the potential that the chassis might have some historical or sentimental value before It’s start to butcher it with some additional bad repairs.
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#9 Detroit Dave

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 09:19 AM

This one is probably best left to someone with the necessary skills.

d2.jpg
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#10 Pablo

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 09:54 AM

I love the square tube construction


Are you sure they are tubes, not solid?
 
A word to the wise: on old chassis like those, once you start unsoldering things for a restoration, bad things can happen.

I call it "sprhoooiiing". The built-in stresses from racing hits many years ago come unleashed.
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#11 tonyp

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Posted 04 December 2018 - 11:39 AM

Rails are not square tubing but flat wire.
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"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#12 Detroit Dave

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 08:05 AM

Makes sense that it would be flat wire and not square tubing at that size.

Thanks for the warning on the sprhoooiiing! I have some chassis that I can take some practice learning how to control where the heat is going and how to hold the chassis components in position with. Any good threads where this might be discussed that you might point me to?

Also here is another of the chassis pictures.

d3.jpg
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#13 Pablo

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 10:11 AM

Melting solder joints while holding them in place, as you describe, is going to result in taking a stressed old chassis and ending up with fresh solder on a stressed chassis.
 
The goal of chassis building is to have the metals lay naturally without being stressed or forced into position.
 
The best advice I can give you is some options, in order of preference:
1) clean up the corrosion as best you can and leave them as is, no soldering
2) take lots of measurements and photos, completely dismantle them, save all the key components like drop arms, brackets, etc and replace all the rods, tubes, etc. with brand new K&S, then tumble it.
 
Here is a car I restored using method #2, and it kind of addresses the "shproiiiing" factor - look at what happened when a newly-restored vintage high horsepower Havlicek motor was placed in a 45-year-old chassis and took a wallshot.
 
"Steve's Racers" refurb
 
My point being, you don't want to start bending 45-year-old wire into submission to "make" it fit again.

And as long as I'm giving you so much bad news, another factor to consider is, how much force-fitting did the original builder do? That stress is still inside that chassis. Melt the solder and "shrprooooing." Not good. You'll wish you never started, because once you relax and correct a joint, you can't just stop - you have affected another joint down the line and now it is torqued out of whack also.  :laugh2:
Signed,

 

"Been there done that, wish I hadn't."  :dash2:  :D


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#14 Martin

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 11:56 AM

I would fix the braids, oil the bearings, and leave that beautiful patina. Nice slice of history. 


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#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 05:25 PM

Dave, any indication who might have built chassis #4?  Can you post a photo of the bottom side of this chassis? I notice it doesn't have a drop arm & I haven't seen a chassis of this design before.


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#16 elvis44102

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 07:42 PM

i seem to remember  round wire that was surface ground on two sides at around that same time frame..just wondering if that was a Cleveland Ohio thing or more national..

 

these things (trends) lasted very briefly as the latest speed trick sort of like the small solid back pans


John Wisneski

#17 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 07:50 PM

No John it was not a Cleveland thing. I used some of it in Atlanta. Champion sold it for a time about 1969.

 

As I remember Champion was grinding round wire and selling it in shorter lengths of 6 or 7 inches. 


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#18 Martin

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 08:00 PM

 

 

these things (trends) lasted very briefly as the latest speed trick sort of like the small solid back pans

 

Anybody know when (what year and month) that was? Solid back pans that is.


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#19 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 08:56 PM

We used it in MA during the early '70s. I still have a partial card of the 6" lengths that Champion sold for a buck. That might sound cheap, but K&S round piano wire was only a nickel per foot in the .032"-.062" diameters.


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#20 Martin

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Posted 05 December 2018 - 09:02 PM

Bill,thanks but I was asking about the "small solid back pans"


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#21 Detroit Dave

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Posted 06 December 2018 - 08:34 AM

Pablo, Thanks for the link to the Steve build! I really enjoyed that thread and it inspires me to pick one of the chassis and try a reconstruction, resurrection or in the case of the Steve build a refinement!

Here is a picture of the chassis 4 from the other side.
1D5D1140-31B0-4659-88D6-9BEDB1734D28.jpeg
I cant see any builders identifier on the chassis through the patina.
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#22 Detroit Dave

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Posted 06 December 2018 - 08:44 AM

Here is another chassis from the lot. These were all in a small tubberware container with a oil bath in the bottom.

7810C444-8BC8-401E-8CEA-2106893F6A71.jpeg
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#23 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 December 2018 - 09:15 AM

Dave, thanks for the bottom-side photo. It shows up some details not obvious from the top-side.

 

Martin, my photo request wasn't made as a follow-up to your rear pan question. I saw some unique building on chassis #4, which hadn't been previously shown. Regarding small solid pans, it would be nice to know which came first, split pans (solid fronts) or the small solid rear pans. i never built using either, so i don't know the advantage of one verses the other or how they affected handling. I ran mostly on a Blue King & a Sovereign in the day..  My guess would be that solid rear pans came first.


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#24 tonyp

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Posted 06 December 2018 - 10:36 AM

Rear split pans came first. Jerry Brady innovation I believe.


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"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
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#25 Detroit Dave

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 09:43 AM

Is chassis number 1 an example or rear split pans?
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