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Ultimate Thingie: Pablo Choti Ultra #5 Lenz U-Go Mura


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 06:50 PM

Looking for a buyer. This won't be a "budget" car. Even I can't afford it :)

Assembly by yours truly, and body will be painted by Jairus Watson.

Parts shown in this post are original vintage and genuine rare items

 

IMG_0997.JPG

 

IMG_0999.JPG


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Jairus

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 07:02 PM

You found a body then?  
Super.
Take my advice and pull down your ....
Wrong advice.
Cut and mount first then send me the body. 
K?


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 14 December 2018 - 07:18 PM

Trim and mount then send, understood :D


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 07:32 PM

Lenz double 27 reverse timed .510" OD .500 stack length armature.

 

IMG_1008.JPG


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#5 Geary Carrier

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 08:01 PM

That should spin up quite nicely...


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Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#6 Pablo

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 06:29 PM

Yuuup :)  Weldun wheels polished and ready for "Mmmmm Donuts" 

 

IMG_1023.JPG

 

homer-simpson-donuts-23.jpg

 

 


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 08:35 PM

Recently I had a bad experience with a new-looking Mura endbell on a different car - bushing looked new, so I assumed it was good to go. It turned out to be really sloppy and I caught it in on a track test

 

http://slotblog.net/...to-be-havlicek/

 

This time, again, endbell and bushing appear fresh. But I was looking for a sloppy bushing, and I found it.

Probably came from the factory like this. Moral of the story is, "trust, but verify" :)

 

IMG_1025.JPG


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#8 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 09:23 PM

Wow! UGO bracket and guide thingy, Lenz double wind :heart: long super strong Versitec mags.. looks like you just walked out of a raceway with all the "right" parts :D

One supercharged Choti coming up!!

#9 Martin

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 09:54 PM

Watching your build with interest. Could you show a step by step of the donut gluing and truing  method you use. I have  a lot of wheels that need this. But always put it off. 


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#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 10:54 PM

 

This time, again, endbell and bushing appear fresh. But I was looking for a sloppy bushing, and I found it.

Probably came from the factory like this. Moral of the story is, "trust, but verify" :)

Have you tried another bushing in these endbells? Or, is the problem caused by the endbell plastic itself? That is, the bushing bore isn't aligned straight?


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#11 havlicek

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 07:27 AM

10-4.  These bushings are pretty sloppy right out of the box (*both the Tradeship and Mabuchis), but this one looks to be at least "average".  ;)


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 09:39 AM

It's not an alignment issue or an endbell issue; it's a bushing slop issue due to either wear or high tolerance manufacturing. I'll be correcting the issue later today.

 

Martin, I'll PM you the donut instructions I have :)

 

Wish Mura hadn't chosen a bastard size for their bushing OD - .165 (11/64).

If it was .157 (4mm) I'd already have an SKF in there :dance3:


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#13 dc-65x

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 11:25 AM

I can send you a new old stock and checked for fit bearing. :)


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 12:15 PM

That would be super, thanks Capt. Rick :)


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 05:41 PM

These pics are for Martin. JK donut tool, 1/8 aluminum tube sleeve, fireworks cone (trimmed to slightly bigger than rim flange OD and small end snipped off to allow 1/8 axle)

 

IMG_1030.JPG

 

Setscrew end towards tool handle

 

IMG_1031.JPG

 

10 second dip, push donut to the hilt, remove cone & sleeve, done

 

IMG_1032.JPG


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#16 dc-65x

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 06:30 PM

Hi Pablo,

 

I've got some goodies ready to ship. The bearing you needed and a pair of shunted 16D brushes and some "invisible" brush spring insulation in case you're feeling frisky about your motor build. :D

 

DSCN7163.JPG


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 07:04 PM

Thanks Capt. Rick. I already have the shunted brushes and insulation.

But if you send more I won't complain :D


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 09:11 PM

The setup needs to match the arm, so it's all kind of tricky. Obviously some honing is in order.

My plan for the final hole size is .530

 

IMG_1041.JPG

 

Mags secured in the shim with clips and some micro-squirts of Loctite® CA. Resulting hole mikes about .513

 

IMG_1043.JPG

 

I probably need about a .522 hone in between ......


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#19 Martin

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 09:18 PM

Thanks Paul, got to make me one of those tools.


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#20 olescratch

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 01:11 PM

  Pablo, thanks very much for the pics of the donut tool in use.  I avoided buying one because it didn't have cones as big as the rims I wanted to use.  Fireworks cones, I never would have guessed!  Thank you!


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#21 Pablo

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 02:47 PM

Mark your calenders, 1 Jan 2019. Get there before the cleanup crews arrive and, "free donut cones everywhere - all sizes" :D If you don't score, send me a PM, I'll get enough for all of us.

 

If Martin makes some I'm sure they would sell :good:


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#22 dc-65x

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Posted 21 December 2018 - 12:24 PM

Recently I had a bad experience with a new-looking Mura endbell on a different car - bushing looked new, so I assumed it was good to go. It turned out to be really sloppy and I caught it in on a track test

 

post-91-0-68974900-1545182646.jpg

 

 

Pablo, I've got your replacement Mura endbell bearing, shunted brushes and insulation in the mail.

 

I checked all the Mura bearings I have and they all have a little "slopskee" though not nearly as much as you show in your picture above.

 

I have some associated "slop free" bearings (pictured on the right) that are a tight fit on the armature shaft and would require some fiddling with to get to work.

 

DSCN7172.JPG

 

DSCN7173.JPG

 

The other "mystery" bearing (shown on the left) is a nice fit on the shaft.......maybe a little tighter than the Mura bearing sent.

 

The Associated brass endbell bearing plate shown is an option for fitting bearings to endbells.

 

Is any of this stuff something you'd like to fiddle with?  :unknw:


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Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
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#23 Pablo

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 05:05 PM

I think the stuff you are sending is good for now, thanks Rick :)

 

Question: were Lenz motors always traditionally painted dark red?

I'm considering tumbling my can and leaving it virgin, with a Lenz sticker.

Would that be sick? :shok:

 

Body, I located a very rare new Truescale, and I'm thinking dark red with a black accents fade, with maybe some gold.

Or black with fade to dark red accents.

 

??

 

My doggone .522 hone should arrive soon :dance3:


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 07:08 PM

Okie Dokie Pablo.

 

Lenz motors were painted in more colors than I know of. Sometimes I think Lenz and Mura painted their motors with whatever spray cans of paint were on sale at the retailers at the time. Off the top of my head, I can think of dark metallic red, dark metallic blue, orange and chrome cans.

 

motors- 038.JPG

 

lenz-2.jpg

 

motors- 048.JPG

 

On my last build I left my B-can bare metal and polished the pee out of it:

 

Pro Car How To (73).JPG

 

I gave it a generious coat of paste wax to protect it..............unfortunately the very next day it had already started to rust! :shok:

 

I ended up spraying on a coat of clear.

 

 


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Rick Thigpen
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There's much more to come...


#25 Jairus

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 07:10 PM

Rust is a color!


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