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Ultimate Thingie: Pablo Choti Ultra #5 Lenz U-Go Mura


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 07:17 PM

Only if you're into Rat Rods! :crazy:


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 07:39 PM

Thanks Rick, that gives me lots of ideas :good:


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#28 NSwanberg

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 05:58 AM

"Fisher Body Rust" was almost  a color.


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#29 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 07:38 AM

Did they stop rusting? :laugh2:  Saturns & Vettes don't rust.


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 10:53 AM

Started re-reading Capt. Rick's thread last night and by the time I got to pg. 3 it is apparent some Lenz motors were built with Mabuchi cans. What would y'all say if I told you I'm considering taking a blind bearing Mabuchi can, installing a BB and the Versitec mags/Dynamic shim sandwich, and using that instead of the Mura can? It would be lighter, and a thousand times easier to install the BB than the Mura

 

http://slotblog.net/...-lenz-thingies/


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 11:43 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

These early rewound motors were in a constant state of development and change. Nothing is really set in stone but generally, your armature has the thin laminations and the wires welded to the comm:

 

post-91-0-65949200-1545092964.jpg

 

The Mabuchi can versions most likely had an earlier style armature with thicker lamination and the wires soldered instead of welded to the comm:

 

1967 Pro Plate Car- 014.JPG

 

LENZ Sticker 001.JPG

 

Here's what the motor for the parts you have is more likely to look like (at least the orange painted version of it):

 

Lenz Red Ball-6.jpg

 

Lenz Red Ball-2.jpg

 

I'm sorry, I don't mean to be a "rivet counter" Pablo.   :o   I'm just trying to be helpful........in fact, I might be able to dig up parts to make the Mabuchi style motor for you............... :)


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 04:32 PM

Thanks Rick, you helped me make up my mind with the info about the welded comm tabs.

Mura can it is, original plan :good:


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#33 proptop

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 02:26 AM

FWIW I think the Lenz "Red Ball" is actually orange, and is "Chevy Orange"...by that, I mean the color that Chevy used to paint their small block V-8's in the 60's...I had a can of Chevy orange engine enamel...IIRC it was Plastikote...and it was pretty darn close match.


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 06:08 PM

It must be Christmas because there was "gootntite" EB bushing and a .523 magnet hone in my postal locker :dance3:

 

Before:

 

IMG_1025.JPG

 

After:

 

IMG_1060.JPG

 

I found a good use for the stock Mura can bushing - alignment tool so I don't foul my SKF BB with magnet shwarf during honing  :D

 

IMG_1062.JPG

 

 


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#35 dc-65x

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 07:05 PM

:good:  :D


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 25 December 2018 - 06:42 PM

Motor building sometimes is a "gotta do this before I can do that, and can't do that until I do this", etc.

Exact magnet placement fore and aft can't be done until I enlarge the hole enough for the arm to fit.

Can't hone mags until they are secured in the can. Can't secure them until I know where I want them.

 

So, this is tricky and it may seem tedious. But here's how I did it:

Mags are secured in the shim with good layers of CA. Shim slips into can only part way home, and a microdot on each side between can and shim temporarily secures it. Now the .523 hone is ready, with one big spacer on the rear end to make it stop right when the hone touches the back end of the shim

 

IMG_1063.JPG

 

Into the bathroom with drill under the faucet, with prayers to make the microdot strong enough to do the job.  Success is mine! Piece of cake :good:

 

Cleaned up the shwarf and another prayer that a drop of Acetone on each side will dissolve the microdots of CA and nothing further. Waited 10 seconds, used a wood stick and a small hammer, she popped right out perfectly intact. The mags retained their positions in the shim fine :D

 

IMG_1066.JPG

 

Now I can slide the shim/mag sandwich back and forth to set the arm perfectly in relation to the brush holders, bushings, etc. But first I need to attach the brush holders to the EB :laugh2:

 

Sorry for rambling, but I'm just so happy my shim sandwich did exactly what I told it to.

Watching Cheater Wells work on magnets years ago helped me immensely here :sun_bespectacled:

 

 


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 25 December 2018 - 07:41 PM

More prep work:

-brush holders snugged down and checked with square tubing alignment tool

-post protectors secured with CA

-light springs and brushes placed in setup and pre-radiused just a little

 

IMG_1072.JPG


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#38 Geary Carrier

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Posted 25 December 2018 - 08:01 PM

Excellent motor work... :good:


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#39 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 December 2018 - 11:10 PM

Some Mura cans come formed very straight from the factory. Do you still check yours before fiddling with magnets & shims?


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2018 - 09:42 AM

The Muras are typically very true, but modern can straighteners don't usually fit them well.

They are so hefty they can't be "straightened" like a modern (flimsy) can - you'd have to cut them in half and re-solder.

 

Mabuchi cans are usually easy to check and straighten, to a certain degree.

 

In this particular case, the shim fit the can perfectly, so why even check it?

It's gonna get a new bearing anyway.

 

Here's what I am going to do: put it in the tumbler all day :laugh2:


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#41 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 December 2018 - 10:38 AM

That's why I keep a 2 lb.hand-held sledge around.  :laugh2:


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2018 - 11:10 AM

"Beuf from NH" - he intimidates the parts and they just assemble themselves :laugh2:

In engine rooms on boats they call those a "persuader" :laugh2:


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 27 December 2018 - 05:45 PM

Can came out of the tumbler nice and smooth, but not a "chrome-like" finish at all.

Maybe I could have achieved that with polish, but I opted for paint instead

 

IMG_1079.JPG

 

Mag placement and CA attachment done. Second (.530) hone pass was easy.

Now I have a perfect nest for my Lenz

 

IMG_1075.JPG

 

 


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 27 December 2018 - 09:26 PM

Changed my mind on the can BB idea - I found a nice new "gootntite" bushing (Professor Motor?) - nice fit with just a hair of slop to allow some solder pooling in the can hole. Smaller, lighter, better quality than the stock Mura unit - and it retains a "1968" style. Used a Goat Boy .530 slug to align it and mini-torch floated 'er in place. (don't worry about the scratches, Bunky, she's going to get painted anyway)

 

After a baking soda and liquid soap bath with a soft Oral-B, NEON splooge removed the remainder of the magnet shmegma. It was "Oddly Satisfying" and "Squishy Fun" :laugh2:

 

IMG_1080.JPG


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 05:32 PM

Trussed up like a turkey and ready for paint

 

IMG_1085.JPG

 

IMG_1086.JPG


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 06:15 PM

Test swatch: a little lighter than I'd hoped, but it sure sprays well so I think I'll go for it

 

IMG_1088.JPG


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#47 Don Weaver

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 07:05 PM

Paint the can black and then spray your red.  That should darken it up.....  :)

 

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#48 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 07:29 PM

Good idea Don, tried it on the test can, didn't like it, I went with the stock color.

She's in the bun warmer now, love it or hate it :D

 

Now I wait  a couple days before clear coating ........


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 08:50 PM

Can paint:

 

IMG_1115.JPG

 

The mechanic in me is dying to assemble and test this motor :diablo: but it needs to dry one more day :)


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#50 dc-65x

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 09:09 PM

el diablo rojo!    :D


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