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Soldering irons


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#1 JTRacing

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 10:53 PM

Hi all,

 

I wanted to get some advice on soldering irons. What do you all use, and what do you recommend? I mainly run Retro sometimes and flexi sometimes. My grandpa and I have been using Hakko irons our entire career, but I’m starting to look into new ones.

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks!


 


Jordan Temple





#2 Zippity

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 11:17 PM

Give the Hakko FX-601 a try. 

 

You won't be disappointed.  :)


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#3 Jay Guard

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 11:30 PM

Yep, the Hakko FX-601 is THE way to go!  Hate the overly stiff cord but otherwise it is the ultimate slotcar soldering iron.


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#4 tonyp

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 06:17 AM

601. It’s the god of soldering irons.


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#5 havlicek

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 06:58 AM

I don't build chassis, but there are some vintage-type coms that I do solder, and the 601 is aces for that.  Key is a lot of heat so you can get in and out quick without having to stay on the tab and cause damage to the com.  The 601 has beaucoup heat, and with the right tip is as good as it gets for this.  ***That means that this one iron is good for everything from chassis to fine electronic type work.  Tip choice is all that matters, so pick the right "caliber" for the game.  :)

Also, there are some things you may want to think about using a minitorch for, but the chassis-builders can better help out with that.  (*I use one as well, but for only a few specific things to doing motors).


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#6 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 08:23 AM

The tip that comes on the 601 is excellent. It is a 5D or D5 I think. When I got the iron I thought the tip looked small for chassis work but with the heat that thing puts out it is great.


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#7 Gary Adams

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 08:38 AM

Ditto for the 601. Blazing heat, great all-around iron. You won't be disappointed!
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#8 John Secchi

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 08:49 AM

Was looking at the 601 but it's not imported into the UK as i think it's only produced in 110v only [i think!].

Not too much of a problem as i already use a 110v Ungar with a step down transformer but from the search i did it seems that there are two versions, 601/1 and 601/2 with the former being half the price of the latter, which one do you guys use and whats the difference?

[oneofwos]


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#9 JTRacing

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 09:02 AM

Looking at the pictures on the website, and not looking at the iron we currently have I believe it’s the same one. It’s falling apart, and it doesn’t really work very well anymore most of the time.


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#10 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 11:09 AM

John I think the difference may be the wattage. The -1 seems to be 47 watts and the -2 is 67 watts. The tips could be different as well.

 

I have the -2 67 watt.


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#11 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 03:35 PM

Input voltage changes wattage20181218_143652.jpg
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#12 Zippity

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 03:53 PM

Looking at the pictures on the website, and not looking at the iron we currently have I believe it’s the same one. It’s falling apart, and it doesn’t really work very well anymore most of the time.


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Well it either is the same or it isn't.

 

Which is it?

 

Post a photograph of the model you have, including the manufacturers label.


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#13 blkdout76

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 10:45 AM

Jordan, you've been around the likes of racers in NERR for how long now? You asked a generalized statement like this? I mean...Dom, Eric Gerhken, Keith, Ed, CD and myself...Ugh come on kid.
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#14 Alan Dodson

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 12:44 PM

I agree, the 601 is the way to go. What I especially like is the adjustable heat control right on the handle. I can crank it up to 11 to solder guide tongues and things that need high heat, and then turn it down to mid range and let it idle while I cut or bend the next piece. I also like the easy to change tip. I use a larger tip than what comes on it for heavy work, and then a smaller tip for the fiddley stuff. This iron also heats up faster than any iron I have used before. I was a diehard Ungar user until I tried the 601. Like Jay said, the cord is overly stiff, so you can get a little exercise while using it! As a bonus, the 601 fit in my Ungar soldering iron stand! Try it, you'll love it!


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#15 Zippity

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 03:13 PM

I'm kinda wondering why Jordan posted his original post.

 

He hasn't even had the decency to reply to post #12

 

Merry Christmas to all :) 


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#16 JTRacing

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 03:18 PM

I'm kinda wondering why Jordan posted his original post.
 
He hasn't even had the decency to reply to post #12
 
Merry Christmas to all :) 

I’ve been busy with work, the fire house, getting set for another college and finishing up my associates degree. Once I get home, I’ll see if I can find where my soldering iron is and take a picture of it then post it here.
Gary, I wanted to get a broader perspective of what everyone uses. I know that you and Ed both use Hakko irons.


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#17 Zippity

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 04:46 PM

Jordan - my apologies for coming across rude :)


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 05:47 PM

Those of you who complain of stiff cords, I had the same feeling about some irons - until I learned to adjust the position of the chisel tip so the cord drapes over your wrist confortably with the chisel at the angle you like to solder. Try it - it makes a world of difference :)


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#19 JTRacing

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Posted 27 December 2018 - 10:04 AM

I’ve got some time today so I’ll be looking for the soldering iron, then I’ll post a picture here. I didn’t forget yet lol


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#20 MSwiss

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Posted 27 December 2018 - 07:13 PM

On the stiff Hakko cord, one of my local racers mentioned his friend stripped off the heavy jacket for him.

I decided to do a little bit at a time.

I just soldered something, checked the stripped part for heat, and didn't notice any, so I'll probably strip off a few more inches, when I get a chance.

20181227_180357.jpg


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#21 team burrito

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 02:33 AM

you could just use a 2-prong plug & go with 2-wires instead of 3-wires. just a thought.


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#22 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 11:39 AM

Mike are you using that Mini Phaser external control with the Hacco 601?


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#23 MSwiss

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 11:52 AM

As the picture shows, I do.

But it's a bit weird.

When I turn it on, before a birthday party starts, of course, I don't want it at full heat, but I have to be careful to at least turn the dial up high enough to get that little blue light to go on with the Hakko.

Otherwise, zero heat when I go to use it.

Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
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Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559


#24 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 12:30 PM

The kids break stuff at birthday parties? :o


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#25 MSwiss

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Posted 28 December 2018 - 04:01 PM

Very seldom.

 

Between soft walls, and adjustable power, 95% of my repairs are broken lead wires, from the original factory solder job.

 

Probably 2/3rds of my birthday parties are full speed.

 

And almost the same percentage of rentals.

 

With kids being off of school, I've been busy the last 2 days, during the day, with rentals.

 

Having full speed racing , with cars staying within a foot or two, of each other, for laps at a time, even gets the adults watching, excited, let alone the 5 or 6 year old kids, doing it.


Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 692 Citadel Drive, Westmont, Illinois 60559






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