4 replies to this topic

[CARSHouston]

Local track is putting in a drag strip, trying to help by being one of the first to build a car.

Have a model car to use and bought a JDS Gasser chassis. JDS chassis is very nice with great instructions

Track is suppose to be 1/4 mile

We plan on running a simple break out series

Have a 16D to use

Measured the tires in the model and I'm using a rear that's going to be about 1.125 to 1.150 by .500 wide

What gear ratio should I use

for full 1/4 mile

1000'

1/8 mile

Can I run a rear tire that's only .435 wide?

Thanks Everyone

George

[mark1]

.435 tires will work better than .500. More consistent later in the day. The glue will get heavier as the day goes on. 3 to one for 1/4 mile. 3 1/2 to one for 1000 foot. 4 to one for 1/8 mile. Wipe your lane with lighter fluid or coleman fuel. Use koford light drag glue. That should give you a starting point. good luck! Oh, and download the Jegs perfect start practice tree on your phone.

[Charley]

George,

As an avid drag racer, I agree with Mark1. However, I am confused as to what tires you are refering to in your post. You said "Measured the tires in the model and I'm using a rear that's going to be about 1.125 to 1.150 by .500 wide" I hope you are not planning on using those tires LOL!

As far as gear ratio, if it's a Super 16D, I would start around 14/48 or 15/48. Maybe even go as high as a 16-18 pinion. ( 64 pitch ) The tire height I use is normally 1 3/16 tall. I buy the 1 5/16 then true them down to that height.This should give you a soft launch and good top end, with little to no glue depending on whose tires you are going to use. I prefer the JDS tires. All of this will come down to track surface and track voltage. 

No matter what, once you get the car dialed in, prep the lane the EXACT same way every time. 

Welcome to drag racing and good luck. 

P.s.   the Gasser chassis is a good chassis to use, but depending on what body you are using it can get a little squirley at the top end. 

 

Charley

[idare2bdul]

What is often lost on new racers is that it only matters that the car runs consistent times. A car that leaves too hard makes gluing too critical and a car that is reving at or beyond it's maximum best in the lights can lead to inconsistent times. Observe how the racers glue and keep a record of each run to gather data on what the car does. I had a code for how much glue I used and any wiping of the track I did that was part of my data. Learn to tune out everything but your light. A practice tree is helpful and I wired a controller into mine to aid muscle memory. A $15 electronic metronome set for 120 beats a minute can help get the cadence set in your brain. Use the headphone option on the metronome unless you are alone or actively wish for a divorce.

If you are going to use a 16D I would suggest a very used one to insure consistency that you don't get while the motor is breaking in.

[JimbosSpeedShop]

George,

 

I have been drag racing slot cars since 1989 and had my own 1/8 mile test track for 3 years. I agree with all of the above.  in addition, the body should float a little on the chassis.  Add weight in nose if squirley. Try running the car with a minimum amount of glue. Try gluing at pit and no additional glue at track.  Wipe track clean, roll out car, place in lights and a slight push on the roof to set the tires.   Spend some time making test passes. Note how temperature effects the car.  Keep notes.

 

The most important thing is have fun.