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Pablo Hawk Retro Cucaracha Jail Door Thingie


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#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 March 2019 - 09:07 PM

I used to use what i got, glued them to the wheels & trued them with the Unimat. The groove in the wheel took care of any o-ring twist. From the photo, your hubs look more like JK than Parma. One of  my daughter's  old insulin pump has provided me more 5/8" o-rings than i'll probably use. Ace Hardware is another good source.


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 04 March 2019 - 09:50 PM

Outstanding catch, Bill, the 5/8" OD fronts are JK indeed, not Parma as I had thought.

I hereby crown thee "King of Mardi Gras" and "Knight of Slot Cars".

 

Proof positive, I have smart people watching over me :D


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 05:34 PM

Uprights and one piece axle will join the outriggers together. Front axle height math:

Wheel OD .556/2 = .278 - .032 (half the axle OD) = .246

My square jig blocks are .248 thick so they elevate the dummy axle to the correct height.

Now I can go nuts with uprights :)

 

Axle assembly ready to go at 3.00" width. If I'm careful to make all uprights exactly 90 degrees it will drop right in

 

IMG_1618.JPG


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 08:14 PM

Perfect time to trim the wire upright ends before slicing and discarding the dummy

 

IMG_1630.JPG

 

Soder-Wick cleanup of the wires and the (real) axle assembly slips right in perfectly

 

IMG_1640.JPG

 

 


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 08:53 PM

Front wheel assembly complete. Time for a cleanup and I will stop for tonight with one thought:

Nothing ruins a good handling slot car quicker than front wheels done wrong.

They should provide nothing but a gentle rolling reminder to the chassis - don't tilt too far

 

IMG_1644.JPG


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 06:39 PM

Center section downstops are a pair of tinned .032 wire gizmos.

Painter's tape is about 5 thou, so two layers over the cross connector wire makes 10 thou.

They lay in place for a tack

 

IMG_1650.JPG

 

Then a check, slight tweaks, then fully soldered. About 10 thou of drop is more than enough

 

IMG_1657.JPG


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 07:53 PM

The car is SOLD :)


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#33 olescratch

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 02:48 PM

  DAMN!  IT'S NOT EVEN FINISHED YET.  Yes, it's already looking like another awesome build.  Think I'll be following this one closely for future copying/ideas.


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 05:25 PM

Outrigger tilting body mounts are four rods 2.5" long

 

IMG_1661.JPG

 

Four 3/32 hinge tube pieces of equal length (+/- 2 thou) done with a hand drill and a Dremel :hi:

 

IMG_1662.JPG

 

I added an extra rod to the outer section to lessen the space between it and the outriggers.

A tip for those who may not have seen it before: slide a dummy rod or wire through both hinge tubes for installation, then remove it when done. Add drops of ATF if you feel the need to prevent solder wicking into them

 

IMG_1663.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 09:10 PM

Washed up and ready to tumble in the morning.

055" bite bar, .039" downstops, 1/2" pin tubes, .063" rod hinge connectors.

Nothing fancy, just the basics. Little bit of slop, lift, tilt, drop is all it takes

 

IMG_1666.JPG


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#36 Martin

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 10:09 PM

Looking good, :clapping:


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 07:51 PM

Out of the tumbler:

 

IMG_1686.JPG

 

IMG_1684.JPG

 

IMG_1674.JPG

 

IMG_1676.JPG


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#38 Geary Carrier

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 08:19 PM

:good:


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#39 Martin

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 09:14 PM

 Good looking Paul. Especially like the rear hinge pic. :good:


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 03:37 PM

Thanks. Yup, a little bit of wiggy-waggy at the rear is good, not just for slot cars.

The late Ray Price called it "rear-steer". Dogs wag their tails to show emotion and for balance.

Women, well I won't go into that here  :laugh2:

 

Minimal decals applied to the inside as usual with 3 coats of glazing medium

 

IMG_1691.JPG

 

Despite the fact the Billy Watson body is "good", it does have wheel well marks waaay bigger than what I need, and nothing I can do about that except close one eye and fart

 

IMG_1692.JPG

 

Maybe Billy can find a way to make those disappear, or maybe Vic F. will start making Cuc bodies again.

Meantime, it is what it is :)


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 10 March 2019 - 07:56 PM

A microdot of Loctite 271 on each 2mm JK screw is overkill but good insurance

 

IMG_1699.JPG

 

Customer requested a Swiss Red Fox flag. Obviously he reads Slotblog :)

Since they only come in .032 thickness, I added an .032 Mylar flag spacer underneath

 

IMG_1706.JPG  


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 06:17 PM

Goal for initial assembly was to attach major parts and test front/rear balance.

With the plastic flag nut, it was slightly too far to the rear. With a Classic brass weight, it meets my goal and will fit under the body. Balance point is now halfway between the axles

 

IMG_1707.JPG

 

Just in case, I added another coat of Glazing Medium to the #98 decal in case of contact

 

IMG_1723.JPG

 

Pablo plaque JB Welded to the forward right side of the outrigger rods.

Makes it jet through the donut on a King track and keeps Bill from NH happy :laugh2:

 

IMG_1710.JPG


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#43 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 06:47 PM

Pablo plaque JB Welded to the forward right side of the outrigger rods.

Makes it jet through the donut on a King track and keeps Bill from NH happy :laugh2:

 

 

 

That's not where I'd have placed it.  :laugh2:  I'd want it to show from the bottom of the chassis, so every time someone looks at the car & chassis they'd know who made it without removing the body. :shok:


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#44 Pablo

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 07:22 PM

God made it, I just assembled it. If the owner wants to engrave the underside "Pablo" I can't prevent it   :)


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#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 March 2019 - 09:28 PM

Brass chassis I built are engraved on the bottom. My Dremel engraver was some of the best $12 i ever spent.  :laugh2:  In 1997, I met a man who had bought one of the chassis I built to be sold for $10 through Modelville Hobby back in 1970. I didn't know him, but he approached me at a Nats warmup race through the engraving on the bottom of that chassis. I never heard who bought the other 6 or 8 similar chassis I built..

 

We'll agree that we disagree on this topic. :)


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 12 March 2019 - 05:25 PM

Bill, I engraved the motor "R MADE IN CHINA" on the underside just for you :P

 

IMG_1731.JPG

 

Next step is orange paint, hopefully something like this shade

 

IMG_5022.JPG

 

 


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#47 Bill from NH

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Posted 12 March 2019 - 09:17 PM

Thanks, I think. :laugh2:  :laugh2:   But for such  a car, why  would I care what version of an RH was used?


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 12 March 2019 - 09:53 PM

Bill, I purposely made the car so the owner can vary the power by simple motor swaps. See my post #23.

FYI, there is no such motor as a "RH".

 

Fluorescent orange backed with white looks good, I think

 

IMG_1737.JPG

 

 


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#49 Martin

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Posted 12 March 2019 - 10:27 PM

I do like that orange, you wont lose that on the track.


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#50 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 March 2019 - 09:02 AM

I thought RH stood for Retro Hawk. To be truthful, the IRRA has had such a myriad of legal motors, me not racing retro, I haven't bothered to keep track of which is what. :laugh2:


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