22 replies to this topic

[Barry]

I have been using Hakko irons for a long time and my original was a great performer for years and years until recently when it was time to replace the tip. I got a new tip and it never would tin up the same.

I have since purchased a FX-888D and a FX-601. I have just replaced the tips on both of these and the one on the 601 is horrible. I use the same Flux, solder, cleaning procedure, etc but I can't seem to find what is wrong. I have tried 3 different cleaning wools from authentic Hakko to brass and stainless wool from the dollar store. The tip on the 888 seems beautiful and shiny and the 601 seems to constantly look blue as soon as I wipe and will build a brown crust of corrosion in a few minutes of sitting and the chunks are scattered around the holder. I am attaching a picture of both tips...... Anyone have any ideas?

[Racer36]

Try turning the heat down on the 601 while it is sitting.

[MSwiss]

A fan blowing air across it, when not in use, may help.

[Pablo]

Make sure the connection nut is tight.

 

Wire brush the tip clean when cold, then re-tin.

 

Use Tip Tinner and Cleaner.

[slotcarone]

What Mike said!! Are you sure the strange one has the cladding?

[Pablo]

What's "cladding"?

[Racer36]

We put cladding on the sides of the shed! Lol

[Barry]

Thanks for the tips guys but I am not sure if we have it figured out.

The tip on the 601 is maybe 2 weeks old at best and only has one chassis build on it. I use it at half heat as much as possible and only turn it all the way up for places like the guide tongue. I use it and then turn it off and keep extra solder on it when I shut it down.

I use it Stay Clean liquid Flux for my chassis builds but I have tining cleaner and paste flux for standard use. I can understand wearing out a tip in a few months but a couple of weeks seems crazy.

When I watched TonyPs video from a year ago, he said he cranks the heat all the way up and he didn't seem to be fighting getting solder to flow on the tip every 5 minutes of use.

I have wire brushed it off cold, and tried every combination I can think of. Just never had this much problem in 20 years of soldering experience.

I could ask many places but hoping that chassis building guys may know some secrets from years of experience

[Half Fast]

Better call Sal

 

Sal Ammoniac that is, use a Sal Ammoniac block to clean the tip.

 

Cheers

[Phil Beukema]

One old idea that may help....

 

***Clean the tip was well as you can

***When the iron is cold

***Coil wrap the tip with small diameter soldier

***Plug the iron back in

 

As it heat up, sometimes it tins perfectly.

[Barry]

I just cleaned it up really good...... Tinned it, scrubbed.it, tinned it, let it set for maybe 2 minutes and go to use it...... Black and crusty! Stuff chips off in the brass wool

[Barry]

Better call Sal
 
Sal Ammoniac that is, use a Sal Ammoniac block to clean the tip.
 
Cheers

I think I have some...... Not sure what is in this cleaning tin

[MSwiss]

How hot are you running it?

[Jay Guard]

I tend to agree with the others that say the temperature is set too high.  It's possible that the temperature adjusting rheostat is not working properly and the tip temperature is much higher than you think.  In addition I think there is some kind of lock on the temperature setting knob, check your documentation for info on that.  I know both of these are long shots but I've never seen a tip, especially a Hakko, act like that at lower temperatures.

[Barry]

How hot are you running it?

I tend to agree with the others that say the temperature is set too high.  It's possible that the temperature adjusting rheostat is not working properly and the tip temperature is much higher than you think.  In addition I think there is some kind of lock on the temperature setting knob, check your documentation for info on that.  I know both of these are long shots but I've never seen a tip, especially a Hakko, act like that at lower temperatures.

I think I have it figured out guys. A month ago I was racing with Ralph Thorne and James from Atlanta in Charlotte and Ralph said he took the calibration pot and cranked it all the way up on his 888 iron to make it solder in motors and pinions. Mine has never been hot enough for that purpose hence the reason I got the 601.

I remembered that and turned my cal pot all the way CC and it is seemingly better.

Now it's holding tin just nicely and not burning. Guess it was user error again....... Just couldn't figure it out to save my life.

[James Wendel]

[slotcarone]

What's "cladding"?

The tips are iron plated. Sometimes just the first inch or so and sometimes the entire tip. That is why you see the plating on some tips before you use them. The plated part is what will tin. The unplated part is what looks like crud when you use it. I am pretty sure the weller/unger tips used to say 'Iron Cladding".

[Pablo]

Thanks Mike

[Jesse Gonzales]

Back when I was building a half dozen chassis a week for my personal consumption and maybe another two or three for friends I used a soldering sponge, kept it moist and wiped the tip frequently. Once and a while I had to flux up the tip and flood it with solder and wipe, Ungar tips lasted me about a year back then, all iron clad. does anyone do this anymore?

 

Jesse Gonzales

[slotcarone]

I don't like the sponge. The Hakko brass cleaner wool works better IMO. Also use a fan blowing on the tip to keep it clean. You have to try it to believe it.

[Jesse Gonzales]

I'm pretty old fashioned Mike but I'll give the brass thingie a try with the next batch of frames I make.

 

Jess Gonzales

[Pablo]

I used a soldering sponge, does anyone do this anymore?

 

Jay Guard uses a sponge.

 

I prefer the Hakko nest cleaner myself.

[gc4895]

I was using a wet sponge and switched to the brass cleaner wool. It works better than anything I ever tried. I used to have to go see me friend Sal from time to time go fix the tip. No longer! Im having excellent tip life with the wool.