Jump to content




Photo

H&R front engine


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 chasbeeman

chasbeeman

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 209 posts
  • Joined: 07-January 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:St Louis

Posted 03 March 2019 - 08:28 PM

Never knew that it existed until I saw this one on eBay. I find myself in need of a coupling for the drive shaft. I don't know of a part for this so hoping fellow racers will know what works best. Thanks in advance for any info related to this topic!641f2598fff680d1ccbda2c90be4ae4e.jpg

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
Charles Beeman




#2 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,029 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 03 March 2019 - 08:57 PM

The front motored chassis with the driveshaft was a Protrack rather than a H&R. Not many sold, until Protrack began to put 16D motors & sealed "FK" cans in the rear. All this happened before H&R was started. I don't recall driving one of the Protrack chassis, but when set up properly, the H&R is sweet. They make a great hard body car.


Bill Fernald
 
"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."

#3 Ramcatlarry

Ramcatlarry

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,241 posts
  • Joined: 08-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:St Charles, IL 60174

Posted 04 March 2019 - 12:35 AM

They used a spring about one inch long to couple the motor to a length of 2mm/5/64" 'driveshaft.  Mine always slipped so soldering or locktiting the ends helped.  Similar 'flex couplings' are found in front motor 1/32 plastic cars like Monogram and Slot-it.  They do not like to work with even moderate torque levels, but those designers are more interested in having a 'full interior' than running a full race.

 

Worst case scenario - solder a length of brass tubing as a coupler.  Do not forget the pinion support bushing, either.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... (for now)
race directing around Chicago-land

 

Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2017 member #404
USSCA  member

Host 2006 ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club member
60+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#4 Mark Wampler

Mark Wampler

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,095 posts
  • Joined: 17-July 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Santa Maria, CA

Posted 04 March 2019 - 02:52 PM

Here's a novelty 1/32 hot rod car that Larry Shepherd  built.  No date on it. Its a hardbody.

Attached Images

  • 20190304_113340.jpg
  • 20190304_113755.jpg

  • MSwiss likes this
You can quote me.

-Mark

#5 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,029 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 04 March 2019 - 03:16 PM

Mark, Larry built some neat-looking cars over the years. Many times, I wish all his posted online photos didn't disappear with his passing. Nice to see you have one of his cars. I still have some Toy-Tech clear bodies as well as a Champion can & endbell he gave me.


Bill Fernald
 
"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."

#6 Mark Wampler

Mark Wampler

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,095 posts
  • Joined: 17-July 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Santa Maria, CA

Posted 04 March 2019 - 03:38 PM

I actually had acquired a small collection of Larry's 1/32 cars, mostly euro proxy cars.  I'll be posing some pics soon !


  • Samiam likes this
You can quote me.

-Mark

#7 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,029 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 04 March 2019 - 04:45 PM

Sounds good, I'll be waiting. :)


Bill Fernald
 
"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."

#8 Dave Crevie

Dave Crevie

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,396 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 09

Posted 05 March 2019 - 12:26 PM

Spring driveshafts work OK for 1/32nd since the lengths are short. I bought a bare Protrack chassis from a shop that closed, and

assembled it using Hobbytown of Boston universal joints. It required soldering a length of tubing with two ball bearings into the rear

bushing mount. It was very quiet, and ran good with an old Parma 16D. I converted it to rear motor when my Friday night group built

an oval track and I needed the chassis for a vintage NASCAR class racer.



#9 Mark Wampler

Mark Wampler

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,095 posts
  • Joined: 17-July 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Santa Maria, CA

Posted 05 March 2019 - 01:15 PM

With that length of span, a center bearing and housing would smooth things out..  The chassis would have to be super rigid if you used a spring off the motor..  U joints would probably be the best way to go on that setup.


You can quote me.

-Mark

#10 chasbeeman

chasbeeman

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 209 posts
  • Joined: 07-January 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:St Louis

Posted 06 March 2019 - 03:09 AM

Thanks for the information and tips, I shopped locally and no luck, purchased some 2mm ID tubing online. I will use the loctite 680 to make a connector. I have hope that it will work! Thanks gents.

Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
Charles Beeman

#11 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,029 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 06 March 2019 - 08:46 AM

Back along, I believe someone posted that they used the red squirt tubes from WD-40 & ballpoint pen refills to connect motors to driveshafts. i've not tried either.


Bill Fernald
 
"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."





Electric Dreams Online Shop