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Best masking... tape, vinyl, and sticker cut-outs?


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#1 Dan Miller

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Posted 03 April 2019 - 09:11 PM

I will paint with lacquer sprayed by rattle can and airbrush. What masking tape would you suggest? I am not into pinstripe detail or any striping for that matter. I wish to block off larger areas. The local paint stores have blue and green painters masking tape. This OK for use masking Lexan bodies?

 

Any brands of vinyl that will work with lacquer paints and not show a problem with melting or allowing paint to bleed?

 

If I ask someone to cut-out window masks, what material should I be asking for?

 

Thanks in advance.






#2 mark1

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Posted 03 April 2019 - 09:30 PM

3M fine line tape. Automotive masking tape. Pricey. works good.


Mark Anderson

#3 WestJL218

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Posted 03 April 2019 - 09:48 PM

Blue or green masking tape will work. When paint dries tape may curl up on corners and end strips. Check before using additional color or coat.


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 April 2019 - 10:16 PM

You should burnish the edges of all masking tape and vinyls to eliminate paint bleed under your masking. Metallic burnishers are sold, but hard plastic rods and wooden dowels will also work.


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#5 mreibman

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 07:52 AM

Airbrush masking is generally done using a material called "frisket" which is available both in a tape-like product (roll and sheet stock) and a liquid.
 
I am having better results with this than masking tape for the most part, and I get clean edges. You can cut to shape with a hobby knife or scissors.
 
This is adequate stuff: Semi-Transparent Masking Film/Frisket
 
I suggest upping your game from masking tape, especially if you want more than just a simple stripe.
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#6 Mike Patterson

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 09:49 AM

I'm partial to 3M #471 plastic tape, crisp lines and no residue when removed.


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#7 Rob Voska

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 03:56 PM

Delicate Surface Frog tape works well available most everywhere.

 

 

 

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#8 Dan Miller

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 04:54 PM

Thank you guys for the suggestions. I will try a few of them out.



#9 Rotorranch

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Posted 04 April 2019 - 05:15 PM

3M 471!

 

Rotor


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#10 Jay Guard

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 09:19 PM

Try Parafilm M which is available many places on the internet.  It's a laboratory masking material that works great on plastic bodies.  It comes on a roll and has a backing film that removes very easily.  You then stretch the film to approximately 150% of it's original size.  Then let it shrink back for about 30 seconds and apply to the area you want to mask.  Press down but be careful not to "nick" the applied film, a finger works well for this.  The film will easily stretch to accommodate compound curves with ease and even if you get a few folds in it it will still seal against paint intrusion.  The last thing is to cut the film with an x-acto knife and press the edges gently with a finger.  You will get incredibly sharp lines with virtually no paint intrusion.  It does take a little bit of trail and error to get the feel of it but once you do you'll probably never use tape again.


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#11 Jabot

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Posted 03 June 2019 - 12:24 PM

thanks for the tips, will use frog tape most likely.


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#12 swodem

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 08:09 PM

Airbrush masking is generally done using a material called "frisket".....


Be nice if it came in a tinted form instead of just clear


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#13 Gene/ZR1

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 11:42 AM

Scotch Vinyl 33 Electrical Tape, works well
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#14 Aeropro

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Posted 23 June 2019 - 11:16 AM

In my 30+ years in the slot car business, I probably painted more lexan bodies than anyone in slot car history. For straight lines I used better-quality automotive masking tape (beware of the plastic fine-line tape, it sometimes does not adhere as well over uneven surfaces such as wheel wells.) For other shapes (such as the one shown on my profile pic) I used peel-and-stick vinyl (similar to frisket, but much cheaper) cut to shape by a computer controlled digital plotter.


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#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 June 2019 - 04:39 PM

I've used both Rubbermaid & Con-Tac brands of vinyl contact papers with good success. I cut numerals & other shapes on a piece of window glass using a X-acto knife or scalpel. I once tried some vinyl a sign maker had given me. I nearly tore the body apart getting it off the body. :laugh2:Rolls of masking vinyl are sold, but I never paint enough bodies to justify purchasing a vinyl plotter.


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#16 Shooter7mustang

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 11:29 AM

More than Noose ? :laugh2:


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 03:47 PM

I first used an airbrush in the spring of 1970. I'm not sure when Joe started, maybe before that, maybe afterwards. Joe wins on quantity, hands down with one hand tied behind his back. :sarcastic_hand:


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#18 Noose

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Posted 28 June 2019 - 06:48 PM

I started in 1965. Pretty much just use Parma / Tamiya masking tape.
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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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#19 idare2bdul

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Posted 29 June 2019 - 11:08 PM

This whole thread just points out how lazy I have gotten with masking. Trying to make a deal to trade my 24" vinyl cutter for something smaller that isn't junk. Not sure mine likes Mac Software so this deal may die.


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#20 Aeropro

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 09:40 AM

More than Noose ? :laugh2:

Who knows? (Not that it matters!) I started racing and painting bodies around 1965-6. in 1987 I started Aero Racing Products and made a full-time living for a number of years mass-producing painted and mounted bodies both for Aero and several other manufacturers to market under their own brands. How many did I paint? I didn't exactly keep count, but it would certainly number in the tens of thousands. (Noose goes great work, btw!)


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#21 Dan Miller

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Posted 02 July 2019 - 07:55 AM

Rick ........ I sent you a PM.







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