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Thingies and Mabuchis


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 11:25 AM

     I got into a fairly long conversation about Thingies and Mabuchis the other day.  All that reminded me that it's not just about modern motors, so after scrounging-around for parts, I did this #28 wire 26D:

IMG_3579.JPG IMG_3580.JPG


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John Havlicek




#2 Geary Carrier

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 11:54 AM

That'll turn some heads for sure... :good:

 

What did you use for mags?


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#3 havlicek

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 01:53 PM

That'll turn some heads for sure... :good:

 

What did you use for mags?

 

Hi Geary,

     The magnets are the stock ones, and I tried to pick a pair that were strong and well-matched (*there isn't all that much variation among the ones I have, but they're all a little different).  I then shimmed the magnets in to just a little too tight to install an arm for spacing, and then polished it down enough to make it fit.  When I send it to be ground and balanced, I'll just have the OD trued up and not reduced significantly.  The stock mags can work fine if the wind isn't too "nutz".  This one is a "68" (46 turns of #28awg), which is close enough to "the edge".


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John Havlicek

#4 Geary Carrier

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 02:27 PM

Thanks John,

 

 I thought they might be stock magnets, but ya never know what kinda secret stuff might be lurkin under the hood.


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 03:03 PM

That's a great motor for a Thingie  :good:


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#6 havlicek

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 04:10 PM

Thanks guys.

 

That's a great motor for a Thingie  :good:

The first thing I think of with a 26D is a thingie Pablo.  Even though the color is off, I have some repop Classic stickers someone sent me, and I almost stuck one on there.  :)


John Havlicek

#7 Pablo

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 04:20 PM

Go for it, if it was mine I'd say a Classic sticker and an H Power also.

Live life like there is no tomorrow  :dance3:


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#8 havlicek

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 05:11 AM

I may just do that Pablo...with your blessing.  :)


John Havlicek

#9 Jairus

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 10:31 AM

Nice work John!
Saving a few 26d bits for a future build here. 
Sometime I might need to call on you my friend since you are the best in the hobby today. :good:


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#10 havlicek

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 04:52 PM

Thanks Jairus.  I'm no more than a PM away.  :)


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#11 Jesse Gonzales

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 07:53 PM

I have not tried these in a motor yet but the mags from the mabuchi 230 motors fit nicely in the old arco magnet clip and slide into the 26D can like they were made for it. The new nags feel pretty strong by comparison to the arco's of yesteryear.

 

Jesse


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#12 Geary Carrier

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 10:51 PM

Hi Jesse,

 

Did you mean Mabuchi 260 motors?


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#13 Alchemist

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 12:28 AM

Hi John,

 

Sure looks good . . .  as usual!

 

I have not seen a 26D in person - may I ask what the dimensions are please?

 

Are they much smaller than 36D motors?

 

The only 36D motor I have seen is the K&B yellow Bobcat motor, and that looked like an anchor to me - many years ago!

 

By the way, what does the letter "D" refer to please?    I've never thought to ask that until now.

 

Thank you John.

 

Ernie


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:02 AM

I have not tried these in a motor yet but the mags from the mabuchi 230 motors fit nicely in the old arco magnet clip and slide into the 26D can like they were made for it. The new nags feel pretty strong by comparison to the arco's of yesteryear.

 

Jesse

 

As Geary thought, I also believe Jesse meant the "260" motors.  The 260 magnets measure a little stronger than the 26D Arco magnets...maybe 10% or so, and are around as thin, making the use of a shim necessary to get a good "hole".

I've mentioned this before, but the actual 260 can can make a dandy shim.  The ID of the 260 with the magnets installed is about perfect for the nominal .590" diameter arms in both the newer 260 and the old 26D.  It's also true that the 260 can OD is a bit smaller in width and height than the ID of the 26D.  Because of that, I long-ago "figgered" that, if I could get a cut down 260 can to slide into a 26D can with the 260 magnets installed, I'd have a really nice setup, with magnets that are at least as strong as the Arcos.

It turns out that, even though the 260 can metal is only about half as thick as the metal used in modern folded& welded cans, it can be thinned down enough to insert it into a 26D can.  Where I used to do that with a flap wheel on my motorized hand tool, I do it now with a belt/disc sander...CAREFULLY.  I first cut the front and the rear of the can down to the length of the magnets or a little less so it doesn't interfere with installing the end bell.  You thin what's left of the can (*now a one-piece can shim) on both the arcs and the flats until it JUST slides in with the magnets/clips installed for a tight...but not too tight fit.

(*The 260 magnets are also longer than the stock or the Arco 26D magnets, but they will fit and clear the inside of the end bell flange if you remove the magnet stop tabs, making sure there's no little bits of them left in there by grinding the inside of the can rear flat).

The 260 can cut down and thinned to fit the 26D can (sorry for the poor picture):

IMG_3581.JPG

The 260 can-shim and magnets assembly partially slid into the 26D can (*here the 26D can got "The Treatment"):

IMG_3582.JPG

This all results in a tight air-gap, and I will put some holes for breathing in the 260 can-shim before final assembly.  It's some work to do all this, but not crazy-hard if you're...er..."motivated".  I like doing this because it makes most all of the 260 motor reusable...the can, the magnets and yes, the armature, which uses .590" OD laminations that look almost exactly the same as the originals from all those decades ago, but punched from new steel.

***It's important to slide the shim and magnets in all at the same time because this is a tight fit and the 260 can-shim is now thin enough that it can be distorted with enough finger pressure.  The magnets keep the can shim shape in tact while sliding it in, but they also prevent you from *thinking* the 260 will fit by distorting it with finger pressure.  That way, you don;t get the shim and magnets partially installed...only to not be able to slide it all the way in!
 


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#15 havlicek

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:13 AM

Hi Ernie:

 

 

I have not seen a 26D in person - may I ask what the dimensions are please?

 

Are they much smaller than 36D motors?

 

The 26D falls somewhere between the 36D and the 16D.  The 26D is around .750" tall, while a modern 16D is approximately a full tenth shorter in height.  The 26D is also a shorter can lengthwise than the modern 16D...so while it's a tall motor, it can fairly easily fit any typical configuration...inline, sidewinder or anglewinder.  While most all of the 26D motors were end bell drive, they can also be worked to go can drive, and someone here showed brackets made that used the magnet-stop tab holes for screwing into, not a great solution, but workable.  Of course, it would be a simple matter to just add a pair of can-mounting holes, which would also make using all kinds of brackets that are already available a snap.


John Havlicek

#16 Jesse Gonzales

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:29 AM

It may have been the FK-280, I ordered a bunch of different motors to scavenge for laminations and magnets. Just for playing around with for now.

 

Jess


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#17 havlicek

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 07:09 AM

Hi Jess,

   There is both an FC260 and an FC280, with the 280 being a longer version.  There may also be internal differences, because these were specifically built for a purpose...magnets, wind, stack length etc...I forget.  I think either was available with a long or a short shaft, and some had a shaft with a flat ground into it, some with a splined shaft, as is the case with many/most of the modern Mabuchis.  It can get very confusing.


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#18 mike1972chev

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:03 PM

Yea,I got a few of them Havlicek guy's 26Ds myself .....  Awesome work I must say. ;) 

 

IMG_3496.JPG

 

IMG_3497.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#19 havlicek

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Posted 10 April 2019 - 06:13 AM

A 2mm x 6mm bearing adapter installed:

IMG_3585.JPG

 

The can is painted, the magnets and shim cleaned, holes drilled in the shim and the top and bottom of the shim that will show in the 26D can holes sanded and polished.  Ready to install a bearing:

IMG_3587.JPG

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John Havlicek

#20 havlicek

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Posted 10 April 2019 - 05:14 PM

Magnets and shim installed:

IMG_3592.JPG IMG_3589.JPG

She's a purdy sonofagun!


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#21 havlicek

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 05:26 AM

I forgot to mention that the above results in a very nice "hole" about twenty thousandths over the .590" arm diameter, with magnets that are a bit stronger than the Arcos.  As with all Mabuchis and Mabuchi variants like the Champions, the ultimate limiter is the end bell.  While the Champion end bell is made from what seems like a slightly better material, it's better/beefier around the bearing pocket (no cracks!).  :) Taking the usual precautions (spring post sleeves, better springs, and even possibly shunts and spring insulation), this magnet/shim combination would allow for some great performance from the 26D.  Bearings only add icing on the cake, but better to use good oilites than the Mabuchi bearings.


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#22 Alchemist

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 11:07 AM

Hi John,

 

That is a really cool shim idea and a very nice motor!

 

Let us know how it spins please?

 

Ernie


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#23 havlicek

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 06:30 AM

Per the racer's request, the above blue 26D got adapters and bearings on both ends and a spiffy "76" (27 turns of #26awg) wound on a dual-shaft blank I took from the FC280.  Inserting the arm, the can/shim/magnets has a satisfyingly strong way or grabbing it and sucking it in.  This should make for one heckuva fast 26D.

IMG_3610.JPG IMG_3609.JPG


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John Havlicek

#24 Kim Lander

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 07:38 AM

simpley beautiful.


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#25 mike1972chev

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 08:38 PM

VERY sexy stuff John..   :D


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