42 replies to this topic

[Ghostrider513]

I do think you could use Revell or Monogram 1/32 track.   For drag racing with no turns, the 3 1/2 lane spacing and 1/4 inch deep slot would be OK.   Certainly not as nice as a smooth, routed track.   A $40-$50 box of track is all you would need and you could play.    If space considerations are worked out, you can always graduate to a nice routed track, if you find out you really want a drag strip.     The plastic stuff is cheap, and it can go in a small box when you are done.
 
Another option is just some 1X4's nailed to a 1 X12 with copper tape.     There are many easy, quick ways to try drag racing.   Run the same motors and tires and total car weight and just run each class heads up.     Play, play, play then graduate to timing and a better track.

I have a CNC machine to build the track. I can do all of the build part. Except timers. I'm creating a draster/ funnycar chassis for 1/32 home builds and I'm building a vacuform table to make bodies. That's the challenge.

[Ghostrider513]

The sections are 3/4" MDF, with 1X4 sides and cross bracing. I actually cut the slots with a hand circular saw,
using the rip guide to keep the slots straight. The reliefs for the braid were cut with a router with a 5/8ths flat
bottom bit with a dowel pin inserted in the end to fit in the slot. Worked perfectly. I don't recommend plastic
track, but if you are going that route, Carrera is the only way to go. You won't be happy with anything less.
Also, if you are going to do plastic track, you need to add feeders every fourth section. Otherwise the voltage
drop will be very noticeable. Use at least #14 wire for the runs, and #16 for the drops from the track rails to
the runs.
 
I used a TrackMate timing system. The best out there. But you will pay close to $1000 for a complete system. 
There are much cheaper units out there, but most can't do bracket racing match-ups. Even fewer are able to
start a race with separate trees for each lane. By the way, there are a few pics of my track under construction
in another thread.  

Yeah, I'm going to be serious but not $1000. serious. MDF is my choice for track. I have the room for the 1/32 and smaller. I'm working with a guy to create a shift system. The button has to be pushed when the car reaches key locations on the track. Shift too soon and they miss the shift for a microsecond.

With the MDF, my CNC can router the groove and braid on top and the wiring slots underneath. I have a sound system for it too. Surround sound triggered by the car passing sensors in the track. I think it'll be fun, hard, and cool. I'm against the trigger type controls. Hold down and go is okay but shifting is more realistic.

I just have to learn the CAD/CAM software to make stuff happen. I'll have to check out your track pics unless those were the ones posted earlier. Very cool.

I wish I had room for the 1/24 track. Especially a 1/4 mile track. That would be sweet. I hope by next year I'll be able to have the local kids building their own cars and racing during summer vacation. That really would be special. Of course it would be free for them.

[Ghostrider513]

The group that I race with slow down cars when needed to make racing equal and the cars more stable.   We run 60's style brass chassis with no moving parts.   H&R, Protrack, Womps made longer, and flat brass soldered together chassis.   We stick to 21K motors and 1 inch rear silicone coated tires.   Mostly hard bodies, but to save me time on repairs, we are trying a few vac formed bodies.
 
We race for fun and  don't take it too serious.    When it gets serious, it gets fast, it gets tricky and winning becomes real important.    That's not as much fun as guys kidding around and laughing!

I completely agree with you. Too serious is no fun. There's guys spending small fortunes on cars. It gets to a point that the fun is gone. Too fast and the cars fly off the track and repairs add up. I'm in it for the fun. And friendly competition over a few beers with my kids and friends. Would have any info about building he 1/32 brass chassis? Measurements, parts I'd need to buy to build a car start to finish. 1/24-5 scale are easy to find but not 1/32. That would be fantastic. Thanks

[Ghostrider513]

Modified Carrera Willys 1/32.
 

Did you build this from scratch? Can you tell me how to make the same type of car from scratch if so? Thanks

[Bill from NH]

Mike, if you look at some of the drag cars on eBay, you'll see how simple some of the chassis can be. Most will be 1/24 scale, but they can be scaled down for 1/32 too. Essentially, they can be a "U" shaped piece of piano wire, a motor & motor bracket, a front plate of brass or steel to attach the guide & front wheels to, & cross pieces of brass pin tubing for body mounting. If you want to run wheelie bars, make your piano wire "U" long enough to be extended in back of the motor bracket a couple of inches or so, then solder an axle tube for wheelie wheels across the extended end of the "U".

 

You could also look for photos on here, the slot Car Illustrated, BBS, & the Home Racing World BBS.  There used to be some slot car drag racing only bulletin boards, but I haven't kept up-to-date with slot car drag racing enough to know what, if any, are still around. A GOOGLE or Bing search on "drag racing slot cars" may show you some chassis too.

[Ghostrider513]

Mike, if you look at some of the drag cars on eBay, you'll see how simple some of the chassis can be. Most will be 1/24 scale, but they can be scaled down for 1/32 too. Essentially, they can be a "U" shaped piece of piano wire, a motor & motor bracket, a front plate of brass or steel to attach the guide & front wheels to, & cross pieces of brass pin tubing for body mounting. If you want to run wheelie bars, make your piano wire "U" long enough to be extended in back of the motor bracket a couple of inches or so, then solder an axle tube for wheelie wheels across the extended end of the "U".
 
You could also look for photos on here, the slot Car Illustrated, BBS, & the Home Racing World BBS.  There used to be some slot car drag racing only bulletin boards, but I haven't kept up-to-date with slot car drag racing enough to know what, if any, are still around. A GOOGLE or Bing search on "drag racing slot cars" may show you some chassis too.

Fantastic. Thank you for the info. I'll definitely check those out tomorrow. It doesn't sound too difficult.

[Bill from NH]

On Bing or Google search using "drag racing slot car chassis". That will get you some chassis photos. "drag racing slot cars" will get you mostly body photos.

[Dave Crevie]

I didn't tell you that you had to buy TrackMate. But you do need something, to resolve close finishes. Otherwise,

there will be disputes, and some racers could be going home mad.

 

You don't need to have the slots for a drag strip CNC routed. Doing it with a power circular saw with a rip guide

will be just as good. Or a router with a modified edge guide will be fine. The slots for the drops can be done by

hand.

 

Getting kids involved is imperative. They are the future of slot racing.

[Ghostrider513]

I didn't tell you that you had to buy TrackMate. But you do need something, to resolve close finishes. Otherwise,
there will be disputes, and some racers could be going home mad.
 
You don't need to have the slots for a drag strip CNC routed. Doing it with a power circular saw with a rip guide
will be just as good. Or a router with a modified edge guide will be fine. The slots for the drops can be done by
hand.
 
Getting kids involved is imperative. They are the future of slot racing.

I completely agree. I have my CNC machine I just finished building. Routing the track is no problem. Building cars is. They're expensive and I'm laid off from teaching until fall. When I have time I'm broke and vice versa. Lol

[Yojih123]

Modified Carrera Willys 1/32.
 

Where can I get wheels and tires for the 1/32 for drag racing?

[Yojih123]

Modified Carrera Willys 1/32.
 

Where can I get wheels and tires for the 1/32 for drag racing?

[chasbeeman]

These are available through pro slot corp.

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[chasbeeman]

Protrack sorry

[Yojih123]

Modified Carrera Willys 1/32.
 

What did you do to modify the Carrera Willy's jeep into a drag build?

[chasbeeman]

Twas never a jeep lol. I changed motor/crown/pinion and added foam rear tires and a wheelie bar. That's basically it

[Yojih123]

Twas never a jeep lol. I changed motor/crown/pinion and added foam rear tires and a wheelie bar. That's basically it

What's the crown?

[Dave Crevie]

The large gear on the rear axle that allows the motor shaft to be at right angles to the axle. Shown is the Red Fox 48 pitch crown.

 

[attachment=213156:RF Crown.jpg

 

It is called a crown gear because the teeth make it look like a crown.

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[chasbeeman]

Here is a hand built chassis designed to fit the carerra willies body. Front guide holder is hand cut from brass.

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