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Blue Cucaracha


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2019 - 08:03 PM

This GENES WORLD body will be painted blue, WB 3 7/8, GL 3/4, front wheel width 2 3/4, rear wheel width 2 7/8, clearance .032 front/.063 rear.

REHCO motor bracket, ISO jaildoor chassis, etc. More details to follow ……..

 

 IMG_2059.JPG


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Half Fast

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 01:06 PM

Muchos cucarachas aqui :)

 

Aclamaciones


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 07:01 PM

Gracias :)  Parts gathering and planning begins.

 

-Motor will be a 16D Mabuchi can with a new vintage SKF ball bearing, Cox endbell, modern magnets, and I have several armature choices

 

-Rehco inline motor bracket with Slick 7 (1/8) racing bushings and .812 OD Mid-America tan colored wheels

 

-Parma 1/2 OD O-ring front wheels on a straight solid 1/16 wire axle ISO hinged via Swiss .063 plated wires to the bracket

 

-Parma "The Blade" standard thickness flag and Big Momma braids on a steel tongue

 

IMG_2062.JPG

 

 

 

 


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 08:45 PM

The can w./rectangular holes appears to be Slotworks/Trinity. In one of dc-65x's builds, he used some brass heatsink plates on a stock Mabuchi endbell. The same build may have used a larger endbell bushing too.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#5 Pablo

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 09:22 PM

Can paint and blind bushing removed; hole drilled out to accept the SKF BB.

The notches up top served a function in 1966 but they don't now, so I sliced them off.

 

Endbell hardware was in good condition and only needed some TLC.

I'll tap the mounting holes 2-56 and solder the brush holders to the hoods tomorrow

 

IMG_2066.JPG

 


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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 10:32 PM

I had thought the can looked like a modern 16D, but I was wrong.  Those magnet stops bent into the cans can also be flattened out with needle nose pliers & soldered smooth for can painting.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#7 Pablo

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 08:34 PM

I like the magnet stops, I use them sometimes, Bill  :)

 

A freshly zapped and matched set of D race magnets gifted from da Cheater will work, with a .580 slug.

Armature will be a custom wound 16D Pro Slot endbell drive long stack .540 OD

SKF can BB soldered in place and EB clearanced.

 

It's a tight fit but I've done this before, Bunky   :crazy:

 

IMG_2074.JPG


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 06:04 PM

Cox EB trivia:

-brush holders are a hair tighter than others so I couldn't use a 3/32 square tube to place them - I used a bent piece of aluminum round tube

-brush hoods are angled in such a way it makes it easy to solder them to the holders

-modern post protectors need to be shortened about 10 thou

-bushing is about 4.1 mm, not the standard Mabuchi 3.6-ish mm

 

Brush holders needed to be trimmed to clear the big modern commutator.

Stock they give .188 gap so I shaved each about 10 thou

 

IMG_2077.JPG

 

Post protectors pressed on and secured with microdots of CA, hoods soldered to holders, mounting holes tapped 2-56, wire terminals tinned

 

IMG_2079.JPG

 

 

 

 


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 27 April 2019 - 11:30 AM

The arm I selected ended up not having enough meat on the EB side of the shaft.

So the setup goes off to Havlicek for a .540 OD EB drive 29 wire custom arm.....


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 29 April 2019 - 06:03 PM

Chassis beginnings:

 

-ISO tube connected to the wire braces at the rear Jairus Watson style, left long to be trimmed later

-Slick 7  bushings set to make the rear clear 1/16 with 13/16 OD wheels

-.047 Swiss plated wire redundancy brace connects the first set of main .063 rod rails and strengthen the bracket face

-tapered rails form the center section, La Cucaracha style

-steel tongue will be connected to a tapered 1/16 brass chunk

-.032 rod up front is just a temporary connector for the rails until the chunk is secured

 

IMG_2093.JPG

 

IMG_2092.JPG


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 07:39 PM

Chunk and tongue set, first set of main rails complete

 

IMG_2107.JPG


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#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 May 2019 - 09:52 PM

Is the photo above from sitting on the bottom of your RGEO jig, or is it some other block? Have you thought of fogging your blue paint with some purple?


Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#13 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2019 - 07:45 AM

It's the bottom of my Precision block. The taper of the rails is about 2 degrees


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 03 May 2019 - 09:43 PM

Mike Steube said you never want to solder a wire to a rod along it's entire length. My secondary main rails are plated Swiss wire spaced outwards with brass rod pieces at the rear, tapered to the front, no bends

 

IMG_2130.JPG


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 08:09 PM

ISO hinge tubes trimmed and .047 reinforcement wires added for strength

 

IMG_2135.JPG

 

.039 reinforcement/redundancy brace wire on the chunk

 

IMG_2139.JPG

 

 


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 06 May 2019 - 06:50 PM

Plated Swiss front axle/wheels assembly complete, washed and set aside.

Dummy axle set in exact place, ready for uprights from the ISO wires

 

IMG_2149.JPG

 

ISO wires hinged using DRS .063 keepers cross connected at the rear with .039 tinned wire

 

IMG_2153.JPG


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 07 May 2019 - 05:42 PM

.047 uprights and another rod spaced out .047.

.055 bite bar is connected only to the twin hinged ISO rails and left long for now

 

IMG_2157.JPG


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 08 May 2019 - 06:50 PM

Freedom of movement is good, but it needs to be controlled (later)  :)

 

IMG_2163.JPG

 

 


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 09 May 2019 - 05:58 PM

ISO downstop is a straight piece of .039 wire across the tongue; upstop is the amidships .055 bite bar.

"Z" .039 wire pieces are "pan" downstops for the tilting rod body mounts.

 

This one has quite a bit of ISO vertical and horizontal movement, and just a hair of tilt on the rods.

Dummy axle is sliced off and uprights are cleaned/readied for the actual axle/front wheels to drop in place

 

IMG_2166.JPG

 


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#20 Kim Lander

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Posted 09 May 2019 - 06:29 PM

Thats a cool chassis Pablo.



#21 Pablo

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 05:15 PM

Thanks Kim :)

By making the uprights exactly 90 degrees, the front axle assembly drops right in, perfect fit, perfect alignment

 

IMG_2185.JPG

 

Time for an SOS scrub and an overnight tumble

 

IMG_2188.JPG


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#22 Tracking Angle

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 07:04 AM

Hi Paul,

I would want the car minus motor. I have a Havlicek motor that I would send for installation and track testing.

Phil
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#23 Pablo

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 07:47 AM

Looks like I found a buyer  :)  Phil, I'll send you a PM.

Here is the completed chassis:

 

IMG_2191.JPG

 

IMG_2194.JPG

 

IMG_2196.JPG

 

IMG_2197.JPG


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 07:48 AM

IMG_2198.JPG

 

IMG_2199.JPG


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 12 May 2019 - 05:30 PM

Body harpooned, Koford big head pins trimmed and sharpened, Parma standard thickness flag blueprinted, O-rings installed on the Parma front wheels, "Pablo" engraving secured.

 

New vintage K & B flag holder/weight needed to be shaved down from .440 to .425 OD to fit and I polished it with 2,000 grit  :dance3:

 

IMG_2203.JPG

 

Parma "Big Momma" braid (it's Mother's Day, ya know  :) ), Parma "old skool" brass clips, and a Koford bronze 10 thou spacer 

 

IMG_2207.JPG


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