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Leadwire management


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#1 Tex

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 05:50 PM

So, I suck at mounting bodies and I suck at lead-wire management. Managing the lead-wires on a retro Can-Am isn't too big a problem since I have the whole width of a Can-Am body to work under. But I'm currently building a wide JK Indycar and there isn't as much room to work within under the nose of an Indycar. I'd prefer for the lead-wires to not rub against the body and cause the body to "deflect" when the guide flag gets turned. I played around with this situation today and seemed to get better results if I didn't run the lead-wires through the on-board wire retainer built into the chassis. I seemed to get best results by looping the wire in a large loop way back towards the motor BUT as I worked the guide flag back and forth, the loop tended to work it's way forward to the point it may begin rubbing on the body(all "testing" was done with the body off, so I could see how the wire reacted when the guide flag was turned back and forth). Any and all suggestions are appreciated; thanks in advance.


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 06:11 PM

Is this the chassis you mean?

 

IMG_2190.JPG

 

We race them with these bodies also, so I feel your pain as far as not having a lot of real estate to work with

 

post-1512-0-39620400-1543795806.jpg

 

I'll throw some things at you and you decide what sticks for you:

 

-There are a million ways to manage wires - keep experimenting until you find what works - different wires behave differently - every car is a special case - what works with one type wire may not work with another

 

-Try smaller loops. Try the Buena Park "kink" method- perfect for tight spaces where loops won't fit. Try it like my photo

 

-Try different angles where the wires solder to the clips

 

-Remove clip from flag, rotate it one revolution, reinstall, check. If it improves it, do it to the other side. If it makes it worse, rotate it back where it was, and add a turn the other direction then try it. Sometimes even two revolutions are needed. 

 

-Try making the loops with the wire exiting above the loop, and below the loop, to see what works best

 

I've been known to spend hours finding the perfect wire/flag interaction. On a scale car you want a fairly gentle self-centering return action. Keep working it, Tex, it's worth it.


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#3 Phil Beukema

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 07:18 PM

Maybe this would work?

 

0510191710_resized.jpg


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#4 Racer36

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 07:33 PM

I saw this method online recently. Looks really effective.

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#5 MSwiss

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 07:36 PM

We raced those cars for a little bit.

 

I seemed to remember the stock holder worked fine, but not with the stock set-up.

 

You went though thru the front and looped it around, more or less like Phil B shows, and sort of like Dennis's.

 

I don't think the stock JK holder is oversize enough, to cross them, like Dennis.


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#6 Jay Guard

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 08:15 PM

This might work for you.  You can always make the loops smaller if you need to.  The black thing is a small piece of heat shrink sleeving.

 

IMG_1854.JPG


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#7 bbr

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 09:06 PM

who thought up this crazy class of racing..... I like it!!!

 

1.png


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#8 Dominator

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 09:23 PM

Here is how I loop the wire for my retro F1.

20190331_181732.jpg
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#9 Pablo

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 07:37 AM

who thought up this crazy class of racing..... I like it!!!

 

airhead


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#10 glueside

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 08:26 AM

This is how I have mine and it works great, just enough wire to make a full swing of the guide flag plus 1/16".

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#11 Tex

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 11:28 AM

This is how I have mine and it works great, just enough wire to make a full swing of the guide flag plus 1/16".

 

Did you run your wires through the on-board "guide"?


Richard L. Hofer

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#12 glueside

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Posted 11 May 2019 - 03:01 PM

Yes! and then bend out 90 degrees to start the loop effect.


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#13 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 05:19 PM

Richard if you are allowed to add wire routing guides to the chassis this works well. I have been using it on retro F1's for some time.

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#14 Tex

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Posted 22 May 2019 - 03:23 PM

OK, for better or worse, here's what I did; sometimes I just get a wild hair.....

 

I cut out and super-glued a "shroud" to the chassis, to keep the lead-wires from interfering with the body/pan movement. there are no loops, so there's no "centering" action. the body pics just show the area that I was trying to prevent said interference with. the side-view of the body shows how low that clear section of body is.

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Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#15 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 22 May 2019 - 05:22 PM

That is a good idea Richard

 

I went through setting up two of those JK indy spec cars a couple of days ago. Running the lead wires so the guide will turn with out lifting the nose was a pain. That looks like it would have solved the problem.


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